Opinions

[Grandad4]

Just for info 22.5 hp to 25 hp is 10% increase.

18.2 to 19.7 hp at reaar pto would be almost 10% increase

Pump output from 6.2 to 6.8 gpm would be just short of a 10% increase.

The Massey website shows the pto hp for those models as 18.7 and 19.6, which is either a 4.6 or 4.8 % difference depending on which way you do the calculation.
All kidding aside, that's virtually the same hp as my BX, which is virtually unfazed by the mower deck no matter how tall or heavy the grass might be. I suppose it's possible to bog these little engines on such a little tractor, but I haven't seen it in 10 years and 900 hours of sometimes heavy use.

 

[TJP89]

TJP, I dont know, coming out of the lawn care industry I really dont trust any company any more! Look at the way engine manu's over stated the HP of there engines.
Kawi had 34 and 37hp engine. Only difference was the carb or the jets. The rest of the engine was basically the same for an extra 3 hp and extra price. You might see where Im coming from with this!
Turning up the revs on small engines happens all the time in the LC industry. It increases blade tip speed, increases vacuum etc.

Axle, Ive told you before I am going off Aussie dollars re the $26000 price tag. Your $1200 can easily turn into $3000au. $3k is a lot of money I dont care where you are! lol

As far as the weight, on the brochure they are exactly the same weight, exactly! One would think if there was better or heavier equipment on these things the weight would go up, even just a little bit! Bigger pumps certainly weigh more for example!
Yes, after posting I went and found the MF 1720 so I stand corrected on that! My bad!


Please dont get me wrong here, Im not trying to argue with you lot, Im just kind of thinking out loud and appreciate the input (I did ask for it)! This purchase will likely happen very soon one way or another.

I read on a thread where a mechanic told a guy that he would go for the lesser machine because there is so little difference for the price. Thats kind of what got me rolling on this!

OK, but I do know you can't get the power of the bigger tractor just by cranking up the revs on the smaller one. Engines, especially multi cylinder diesel ones can have much different power ratings on the exact same displacement block. As an example, the Kioti NX series is 4 tractors across 15HP. All have, IIRC, the same engine, but computer and manually tuned for different HP. Even though they have the same engine, you could never get 60HP from the NX4510, (45HP), at least not without serious tinkering and reprogramming.

 

[GCLM]

Well, just had the dealer here to have a look at my B1700. The differences between the 1705 and 1715 is the revs are turned up and they use a different diff to handle it. Also the seat.

It is the same engine only with the revs turned up!
No, I cannot turn up the revs due to the different diff, or something along those lines.

Im getting a price on the lesser machine with drive over deck and 4 in 1 loader. The loader is Aussie made.

Im now just waiting on change over price so wish me luck!

Thank you all for your input and I'll let you all know how I go!

 

[Fiziksgeek]

The PTO speeds are set on each machine according to the engine RPM. If you run the engine at a higher rpm, the pto will run a higher rpm too. So for example, the GC1705 rear PTO reaches 540 rpms at just under the rated engine speed of 2600 rpm. Running the engine at 3000 rpms would make your rear pto spin at ~625 rpm. Similar increase for the mid pto also.

I have no idea if over running the PTOs by 15% causes a problem for the implements attached to them, but I wouldn't do it, not for 1hp. If you need to squeeze every last bit of power out of the machine, you need a bigger machine!

There are other features that you get on the more expensive machine....not really worth the price difference IMO though. The 1705 is the best package.

 

[GCLM]

The 1705 was delivered last week and it has more than enough power for my needs. I wont be tweaking engine rpm's and to be honest, they may be set a little higher than spec on delivery.
They are set at over 3000prm.

Can someone tell me where the rpm's should be set at full and not under load?

Also, it has the 60" SD deck. Can someone tell me the blade specs? Length, offset and hole diameter. They look to be pretty low lift blades. I'd like to put some mediums on.

I made an error in judgement and went with the R4 tires when I should of gone with Ag. Would putting weight in the rear tires help with grip? Weight would also be good for loader work so, thoughts?

Thanks for any help!

 

[AxleHub]

The 1705 was delivered last week and it has more than enough power for my needs. I wont be tweaking engine rpm's and to be honest, they may be set a little higher than spec on delivery.
They are set at over 3000prm.

Can someone tell me where the rpm's should be set at full and not under load?

Also, it has the 60" SD deck. Can someone tell me the blade specs? Length, offset and hole diameter. They look to be pretty low lift blades. I'd like to put some mediums on.

I made an error in judgement and went with the R4 tires when I should of gone with Ag. Would putting weight in the rear tires help with grip? Weight would also be good for loader work so, thoughts?

Thanks for any help!

Gc1705 is designed for 2600 rpm while the gc1715 is designed for 3000. Some want to run them faster but that is not their designed concept. ESPECIALLYthe 1st 25 hours . . I'd vary engine speed between 2000 and 2600 to let tje motor work itself into good shape. I personally would not over rpm it that 1st 25 hour period.

Weight in rear tires is good regardless of tire type. Choice of tires is really based on purpose. Check inflation pressure too. If you are on lawns at all or hard surfaces . . You'll be glad you don't have ag tires. If you are going to be in fields with loose dirt you'll probably wish you had them.

 

[Fiziksgeek]

The 1705 was delivered last week and it has more than enough power for my needs. I wont be tweaking engine rpm's and to be honest, they may be set a little higher than spec on delivery.
They are set at over 3000prm.

Can someone tell me where the rpm's should be set at full and not under load?

Also, it has the 60" SD deck. Can someone tell me the blade specs? Length, offset and hole diameter. They look to be pretty low lift blades. I'd like to put some mediums on.

I made an error in judgement and went with the R4 tires when I should of gone with Ag. Would putting weight in the rear tires help with grip? Weight would also be good for loader work so, thoughts?

Thanks for any help!

Not sure what you mean by the first statement, but yes, the gauge goes above 2600 rpm and throttle lever will allow you to go higher. Never played with it significantly higher than 2600 though. When doing light work or just going the tractor around, I run somewhere in the 1800 rpm area, little more, little less depending on exactly what I am doing and where I am going!

Not sure about blade specs, have you tried them yet? It blows adequately IMO. I'd recommend removing the deflector though.

Filling the tires will help with traction. You'll find yourself a little light in the back with the loader on, even with an empty bucket. Massey is a little better than some other brands, but you'll want to either drop the loader, or put some weight on the back. You should always have something heavy on the 3pt hitch for any real loader work, so you don't overload the front axle. If you have need for a box blade, they work pretty good, otherwise get a ballast box.