Optimal Shape of Brush Fork tines?

[WranglerX]

If you are not using a grapple curved tines are going to be difficult to use as you approach brush piles and have to rotate bucket to get a points under brush... I preferred to use square stock and straight tines....

Radiator/grill guard added later....

Material is 1.5 x1.5 X.140 but I think I would go thicker wall or larger dimension (2 inch) if I build another... And the more tines the less brush will fall through...

 

[WranglerX]

I have used straight forks. They are good for penetrating a pile of brush, but I am bad about digging them into the ground while trying to get under the pile. I've bent some lighter duty forks doing that.

Bucket level indicator helps a bunch to keep tines from pointing down to much in front and digging in...

 

[2manyrocks]

If you are not using a grapple curved tines are going to be difficult to use as you approach brush piles and have to rotate bucket to get a points under brush... I preferred to use square stock and straight tines....

Radiator/grill guard added later....

Material is 2x2x.140 but I think I would go thicker wall if I build another... And the more tines the less brush will fall through...

How long are your tines from end to end and how tall did you make your radiator guard, please?

 

[WranglerX]

The tines are 48 inches overall with about 30 inches beyond edge of bucket (one 20 ft length of square tube)..... Grill guard is nothing more than some 1 inch angle iron (salvage) welded up and anchored to tines with nothing more then a couple of tabs with bolts through tabs... Guard rests against top of bucket and just a couple of short chains to hooks on top of bucket to stop it from flopping around... Guard is 36 inches tall.....Also there is a spacer and a section of flat stock welded to tines at front of bucket to create a slot to capture front edge of bucket to make the more or less solid to bucket (but can't find picture) ...

Method of attachment of tines to bucket...

IF you get into any heavy lifting (sections of tree trunk) I suggest rear ballast...

 

[Vigo327]

Maybe it is worth pointing out the Titan debris forks for design ideas. They're exceptionally highly reviewed for a clamp-on bucket attachment, and not just on their website. Youtube reviews are extremely favorable. Price is similar to a tooth bar at $300.

Clamp-on Debris Forks

I wonder about the upside/downsides of flipping the angle cut on the front of the tines.

I have some 1.5" square stock I cut for a diy pallet fork attachment (not done to show you yet). I don't think you would call it square tube because it's solid 1.5" square. I think it was some kind of drill/boring rod. Anyway, i cut it at the steepest angle i could on my horizontal bandsaw and plan to run the angle opposite of what is shown on those debris forks. I get that it makes sense to face the angle the way it is faced in that picture but i suspect that flipping it helps a bit in not digging in, and doesn't really hurt in terms of picking things up either because just pushing down with the loader/bucket a bit will probably sink the front edges down almost flush in the ground and at that point they will 'float' in the dirt like some kind of skids. That's the theory, anyway..

 

[sd455dan]

I like my straight round ones . easily replaceable and with no front bar they penetrate well.

They and the tractor are pretty dirty from pushing the burn pile back today . Cough.
At least we didn't fall in the pit

 

[Smokeydog]

Maybe it is worth pointing out the Titan debris forks for design ideas. They're exceptionally highly reviewed for a clamp-on bucket attachment, and not just on their website. Youtube reviews are extremely favorable. Price is similar to a tooth bar at $300.

Clamp-on Debris Forks

I wonder about the upside/downsides of flipping the angle cut on the front of the tines.

I have some 1.5" square stock I cut for a diy pallet fork attachment (not done to show you yet). I don't think you would call it square tube because it's solid 1.5" square. I think it was some kind of drill/boring rod. Anyway, i cut it at the steepest angle i could on my horizontal bandsaw and plan to run the angle opposite of what is shown on those debris forks. I get that it makes sense to face the angle the way it is faced in that picture but i suspect that flipping it helps a bit in not digging in, and doesn't really hurt in terms of picking things up either because just pushing down with the loader/bucket a bit will probably sink the front edges down almost flush in the ground and at that point they will 'float' in the dirt like some kind of skids. That's the theory, anyway..

I had massive logging forks and early Titan bucket clamp forks that have the bottom bevel. Think they work better off road with less digging. Kinder on picks when not level. Like the bottom bevel for tractor fork work. Don’t see them made that way as much any more. Best tool for digging sweet potatoes.

 

[ETpilot]

This brush forks is about 25 years old. Made for moving 6´ round hay bales. Four feet long. Slips on front of bucket and 2 nuts hold it on the back side. Slip on and off. There is a rear cross member on back side that needs replacement now after all these years. One tine has a slight bend on it. Mostly used for logs and firewood now. It probably needs a third tine in center. I have a bucket level that tells me position of tips. I can’t see the tips unless I stand up.

 

[2manyrocks]

I like the idea of round tines that are also replaceable, but I didn't find any round stock at the scrap yard. I looked at buying hay spear spikes, but they were going to be over $100.

Vigo327, I also wonder why the Titan forks put the bevel on top instead of under the forks.