Optimizing towing vehicle

[MikePA]

1/2 ton with 12K tow rating, I don't think so. The hitch may be rated at 12K with WD but the truck is somewhere around 9,000# max with 4.10 gears. 3.73's are 8,000# according to my 2004 GM guide.

This is for LB trucks. Add 200# for SB trucks.

Chris

You're right that was the hitch. 8,000 lbs max for truck.

 

[Loadstar]

I tow up to 8500 pounds behind my 1994 6.5 TD that I believe was rated to 6000 pounds If you follow engine technology, this motor is crap. It's seen a chip, gauges, a gutted intake and a 4" exhaust straight pipe, an enhanced oil AND transmission cooler (a must with an 4L60 with a low planetary gear count), new rotors and pads along with fresh lines, Firestone airbags on the rear end, and a flat bed welded to the frame that's good to 13000#. Out of curiousity, I hooked the same load to a friend's one ton. It couldn't match my modified half ton on braking , acceleration, and stability.

<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/trailers-transportation/403790-optimizing-towing-vehicle-20140216_113920-jpg"/>

They aren't crap, they were designed for fuel economy as GM held onto the 454 for it's heavy hitter. They did what was designed. Nice truck, can't go wrong with 90's chevy

 

[aczlan]

I have had no problems with the pintle hitch. Easier to hook up and less worry about someone stealing the trailer or having the coupler disconnected while driving a rough driveway. I realized that I can always go in low gear under extreme conditions like steep hills to ease the load on the gear.

The reason they are suggesting switching from a pintle hitch to a 2 5/16 ball hitch is to add weight distributing hitch which will do more to help your truck handle the weight than adding airbags because it will shift the weight onto the front wheels.

Aaron Z

 

[vince2]

Am I right that there is no WD system that works with a pintle hitch? If not, I have a ball coupler but I'm not looking forward trying to take the lunette ring of.

 

[aczlan]

Am I right that there is no WD system that works with a pintle hitch? If not, I have a ball coupler but I'm not looking forward trying to take the lunette ring of.

Correct. AFAIK, all WD systems require a ball.

Aaron Z

 

[doall]

Keep your truck and add a 3/4 ton just for towing. You are not going to enjoy your 1/2 ton as much if you make it super stiff anyway. It won't be the same truck anymore.

 

[sld]

I get a lot of satisfaction from modifying things to suit my uses. If you are staying under legal limits for your truck, and you plan on keeping it awhile, modify the heck out of it. Every time you drive it will give you some enjoyment.

Part of the blandness of new vehicles is you have no sweat equity in it. Don't get me wrong, I love new technology and drive newer vehicles. But don't discount the satisfaction that comes with modifying things yourself.

 

[JJZ 109]

Re: Trans temp gauge....

My 2004 Z71 didn't come with one (blank spot on the lower left of the cluster), but I found a guy on eBay who sold replacement instrument panels that included them. At least on 2004 models, all the connections for the trans temp gauge were in the dash. I ordered the cluster, including a deposit in the event I did't return my old one. All I had to do was (1) Attest to the mileage (2) Send my cluster back.

Here's the link, Click Here.

P.S.
No idea how this compares to installing a separate trans temp gauge. I imagine it's more expensive.

For a little more money, you can buy an Aeroforce Interceptor gauge. I put one in the 1997 F Super Duty 7.3 bucket truck I just sold. I turned around and bought another for the 2001 F450 bucket truck I bought to replace it.
You can monitor many different thing available through the OBD II port. Transmission temp, coolant temp, intake air temp, tach, MPG, speed and many, many other parameters available through OBD. You can also pull and clear DTCs.
Aeroforce Technology Inc | Products - Interceptor
Or, I've got a brand new ScanGauge II. I bought it for the newer bucket truck. It proved to be too much of a pain for me to program strings of numbers into the X Gauge function for each parameter I wanted to view. That's when I bought another Aeroforce. So I put the ScanGauge back in the package and it sits. It was $159.99 from Auto Zone. $120 and I'll pay to ship it if anyone wants it. PM me so as not to clog up this thread.

 

[jimainiac]

Timbren rubber cushions do a pretty good job for rear end support, instead of air bags or air shocks. I've used them on three different pickups for years and years. They're simple to install - they go on in place of the rubber bump stops.

 

[handirifle]

View attachment 403724 I have a 2006 chevy k1500, regular cab, long bed with only 23k miles on it. Has the 5.3 l and 3.42 end gear. Use it mostly in winter for 4-wheel in snow but since I got the trailer, a 5 ton eager beaver with pintle hitch, I have been getting close to the max towing capacity and at times exceeding it. I know that getting a 3/4 or 1 ton truck would be a solution, but I like my truck and want to keep it. Here are some things that I have done to improve the towing. Replaced the hitch with a cat 5 hitch rated at 16k capacity. Replaced tires with LT load E ratings. Considering now to change the endgear to a 4.10 (both front and rear) to increase towing capacity from 7900 to 8900 lbs. and to replace rear shocks with ranchos 9000 adjustable shocks to help with vehicle height in back. Any other suggestions to help the towing vehicle perform as good as possible near the max towing capacity are welcome. Thanks

Just a few words of advice. First NOTHING you change will increase the LEGAL towing capacity for that truck. It all goes by the door sticker, and that goes by factory options installed when purchased new.

That said, I used to have a 2006 GMC, 1500 Z71, with 4.10 gears. I have owned GM 1/2 tons with 3.42 and 3.73 gears. No comparison! Hands down with the 5.3 engine the 4.10 IMHO is the perfect gear ratio. It lets the little engine rev perfectly for around town driving and towing, and if you keep freeway speed at 70 or below, it's about 1- 1.5mpg hit over 3.42 gears. Passing is a breeze.

It will cost you about 2 grand for both axles, but the best money you can spend. The class 5 hitch is overkill, since it's rated way higher than your truck. The class IV is rated higher than your truck, for that matter.

After having had both air bags and weight distributing hitch, I would go with air bags. You can use them for loading heavier loads in the bed as well, but keep those loads on back roads and low speeds, since otherwise the load is not legal.

One advantage of the WD hitch, is they usually come with sway control, but I think you can add those without needing a WD hitch.

Also, the advice about larger brake rotors, or upgrading the number of pistons the calipers have (this can only be done by upgrading the caliper itself) but sometimes those also require a matched rotor as well.

My 2006 had some of the best brakes I have had on a GM truck. even some older 3/4 tons I have had.

Oh yes, find a shop with a GOOD reputation for gear swaps. Usually an off road shop does them most often.