Out with the old Blue, in with the new Orange CK2610HST

[toukow]

Well, I have read somewhere on the forum that if there are no pictures, it never happened, so here is my new tractor. I had bored you previously with a price and option comparison between the CK2610HST and the L2501HST, so this was the end result. Seen one, seen them all to a degree, so I thought I would show some of the options.

The options shown in the photos are all dealer supplied (prices are in my other post):

• Right side seat arm rest
• Hydraulic top link- aftermarket supplied by dealer
• Dual rear hydraulic ports, one with detent, one without
• Adjustable three-point hitch lift arms
• Linked HST throttle
• Operator deck mat
• Left- and right-hand mirrors- I am developing limited neck motion range
• Filled rear R1 tires
• Backhoe subframe

The mirrors were an issue in that as I understand it, the kit from Kioti does not really accommodate a right-side mirror. The dealer had to fabricate a mounting method for it, wasn't happy, and said he let Kioti know about it. The kit comes with a left and right-side support structure, including plexiglass screen so that I do not get my dancing shoes dirty. But it only has a actual mirror mount for a left side mirror. So, they fabricated the mirror mounting component and welded/painted it. That is my understanding anyway, and amazingly he did not charge for the extra labor.

In general, I was very happy with my dealer. I just hope he is around by the time I ever get to the 50-hour tune-up, as it was included in the price. As a nice courtesy, he delivered all the filters for that service as well with the tractor, so I can do it myself if he isn't around.

The aftermarket hydraulic top link would not fit in the factory holder that is provided for the standard version when not in use. I will either live with the bungee or make something else.

I went nuts after delivery attempting to provide some additional rust proofing protection. I figured it would never be this clean again, so what the heck. I already have the $800 in car care chemicals, so I triple treated the plastic with 3M 303 protectant. I also had some high-tech acrylic wax (you know the type, takes about the size of a quarter for a car, so they sell you a bottle sized for 400 cars), so I slathered it on for UV protection. I used a combination of anti-rust protectants like Boeshield T9, CRC Marine, and after reading here- Liquid Film gallon and spray. Yep, I know I have turned it into a real dust collector. I know there is a difference of opinion on the forum as to such care of a tractor, given it is a tool, which I find both understandable and humorous. Now, let the (rust) chips fall where they may......

Installed a trickle charger and battery lead. It came with an Interstate brand battery, which was nice. I had expected the cheapest possible brand. Liquid Film touts itself as a battery post protectant, so I applied that heavily.

Anyway, that's all that I have. Thanks for reading, and all the help in deciding what to buy. Thanks, Toukow

 

[chevy]

Congratulations. Nice tractor.

 

[wassup8687]

Congratulations. You're going to love it.

 

[deezler]

Congrats! Thanks for the great intro post. It would be awesome if you can keep this thread updated with your impressions and results as you begin to use the machine more and break it in.

Nice set up upgrades/options. I guess I can kind of understand Kioti not engineering a dual mirror setup.... why bother? One mirror on the left should give you a clear picture behind you and provide safety if you happen to be out on the road (and hugging/staying to the right side as we do).

 

[toukow]

Congrats! Thanks for the great intro post. It would be awesome if you can keep this thread updated with your impressions and results as you begin to use the machine more and break it in.

Nice set up upgrades/options. I guess I can kind of understand Kioti not engineering a dual mirror setup.... why bother? One mirror on the left should give you a clear picture behind you and provide safety if you happen to be out on the road (and hugging/staying to the right side as we do).

Thank you all! I'll defer to your opinion on the need for a right-hand mirror and your logic makes sense for the general user. Seems strange though that they sell the right-hand mirror, just not the appropriate hardware to mount it? Time will tell how useful it is for my application. I was hoping it would minimize the need to turn around with a box blade or back blade, but I may just be naive in that regard. For once I went with any option I thought might be useful, instead of retrofitting after purchase. Thanks, Toukow

 

[deezler]

Hmm I wonder if your dealer was just missing something, then?

BTW, did you check out kvmatz's new thread? He just scored a 3510.... look at the mirrors!
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kioti-owning-operating/411657-my-new-me-ck3510-se.html

 

[Shaneard]

"so I triple treated the plastic with 3M 303 protectant"
Plastic and tractor shouldn't be used in the same sentence :laughing:
Nice tractor! I'm sure you'll love it more than the old Ford. Has to be a lot smoother operating.

 

[toukow]

Hmm I wonder if your dealer was just missing something, then?

BTW, did you check out kvmatz's new thread? He just scored a 3510.... look at the mirrors!
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kioti-owning-operating/411657-my-new-me-ck3510-se.html

I don't understand all the differences, but the 35 and larger come in the 'SE' version, and have options that are not available on the CK25's. Though I'm told they are the same frame, the operator's step from 35 will not direct fit to the 25- I tried! Or to your point, the dealer is simply missing somethin'.....

"so I triple treated the plastic with 3M 303 protectant"
Plastic and tractor shouldn't be used in the same sentence :laughing:
Nice tractor! I'm sure you'll love it more than the old Ford. Has to be a lot smoother operating.

Yeah, I heard the bit about plastic with pickup trucks and handguns, too. Doubt you can get away from it today, but I'm sure there are degrees, as well. This thing does have a large plastic dash, now that you mention it, but not an issue to someone who garage parks it and uses 303 .

If my Ford 1700 would have had power steering, it would have made the decision much harder, as it did everything I needed. Parts were going to be an issue if needed, which I hadn't to that point (other than water pump and steering sector off of Ebay). Thing about the Ford is it 'suffered fools gladly', and did I ever need that as it was my first tractor! It even endured the 'tractor destroying three-point backhoe' without a groan. The more I read here, the more I realize all the things that I did wrong with that tractor, without damage. I definitely understand the love of the older tractors (without plastic).......

Thanks, Toukow

 

[Alien]

Those plastic grab handles on the mudguards are rust traps.
I removed mine and the bolts that secure them from underneath were badly rusted in the threads and my tractor is garaged full time. I fitted new bolts and coated the threads with anti seize nickle and put a good coat of polish on the guard where they sit and sealed between the handle and guard with a sealant so the water wouldn't get between them.
This happened in the first couple of years I had it.

 

[toukow]

Those plastic grab handles on the mudguards are rust traps.
I removed mine and the bolts that secure them from underneath were badly rusted in the threads and my tractor is garaged full time. I fitted new bolts and coated the threads with anti seize nickle and put a good coat of polish on the guard where they sit and sealed between the handle and guard with a sealant so the water wouldn't get between them.
This happened in the first couple of years I had it.

Thanks much for the heads up on this. Given as much corrosion protection as I have attenpted, I will pull them off and apply Fluid Film.

I will probably post separately on this, but when I checked the main battery negatve frame bonding point, it was already starting to show signs of corrosion, and I have less than 4 hours on the machine. I pulled it off and found that they had not ground off an adequate amount of paint to match the lug size. Hit it with an angle grinder, rebolted, and sprayed it with Boeshield. Given the problems this can cause down the road, seems like something to examine on any new tractor (actually, ANY tractor), especially if you live in a wet environment like the Pacific Northwest.

Thanks again, Toukow

 

[Alien]

I notice in your photo that they appear to have a little drain hole there now, perhaps to help overcome this problem?

 

[goeduck]

Congratulations from across the water. :thumbsup:

 

[toukow]

I notice in your photo that they appear to have a little drain hole there now, perhaps to help overcome this problem?

Very good point! The upper grab rail indentation has the hole, the lower doesn't need it given the angle. I'll probably do the corrosion proofing anyway, since I've gotten carried away from the start, but good to see that they've attempted to address the issue. Good eye!!! Thanks, Toukow

 

[mtsman2]

TK,

I read your Price Check comparison and now this post. You have included some super information on key factors to help us make good buying decisions!

I am also looking at the CK2610 as a replacement for my old Yanmar. Long story short, I MUST have Ag tires. I also must be able to adjust them as wide as possible. When I review various pieces of literature on the CK2610 it show Ag tire widths. However, some of the information seems contradictory to each other. For example, the brochure shows 44" front width and 51" rear widths with Ag. tires. Then, another piece of on-line literature uses those same numbers but lists them as "min." width...which I suspect means "minimum" and you can adjust the Ag. wheels wider...?...maybe? I guess we have all shared that sometimes the data on tractor literature is inconsistent.

Since you have the Ag. tires, could you possibly share your current Ag tires outside edge tire width for the front and rear? Then, could you look at your rear wheels and see if they are 2 piece and let me know if you think they could be disassembled and reassembled to create a wider Ag rear tire? I don't think the front are 2 pieces but they may be able to be turned "inside out" and remount the tire to create a wider front stance. yes, I am aware that the rear tire/wheel width is more important for stability on hills but having the front wide as possible just seems to help make me less anxious too.

I don't want to take away from your OP so if you would prefer I start this in a new thread just let me know and I will delete it. Just thought it may be good to have this ag tire width info available for all in your very comprehensive post.

 

[Alien]

Personally I wouldnt use that tractor on any slopes at all. The front wheels in no way stabilize the tractor no matter the width because the whole axle pivots. I have had a couple of scary moments myself so I am very aware of what they cant do. Hills is one.

 

[mtsman2]

.. The front wheels in no way stabilize the tractor no matter the width because the whole axle pivots...

Thx. for info. A. Hmmm... I believe that widening any wheelbase still lowers the center of gravity...even if the axle pivots. Then, I would suspect the angle of axle movement torque changes again when the axle is at max pivot or 'hits up against the bump stop' so to speak. Would have to look at the setup on the 2610 again to take some measurements. I bet it could be a good math exercise.

Sure wish they would offer some models with a Wide axle/wheelbase option. I have seen a few from the 60's and 70's equipped with wide axle options but not many new compacts under 30 hp.

 

[toukow]

Thanks mtsman2 for the comments! So I gave it a go for the measurement to the edge of the tires, NOT the rims, not the centerline of the rims per the manual dimension noted below. I'm an electrical guy so will defer to the more experienced tractor guys, but I'm not seeing why you cannot reconfigure the bolts/center wheel plate to gain a wider footprint by a few inches in the rear. Your Kioti dealer may totally disagree though.

Tires: Titan R1 standard size

Front tires-
owner's manual states to centerline of rim 44.33 inches
measured to outside of front tires: 52.63 inches

Rear tires-
Owner's manual states two numbers:
Centerline of rims: 43.38 inches
Outside of rims/tires: 54.52 inches
Measured outside of tires: 56.0 inches.

Hope that helps, let me know if you need another dimension. Toukow

 

[jcbGM]

TK,

I read your Price Check comparison and now this post. You have included some super information on key factors to help us make good buying decisions!

I am also looking at the CK2610 as a replacement for my old Yanmar. Long story short, I MUST have Ag tires. I also must be able to adjust them as wide as possible. When I review various pieces of literature on the CK2610 it show Ag tire widths. However, some of the information seems contradictory to each other. For example, the brochure shows 44" front width and 51" rear widths with Ag. tires. Then, another piece of on-line literature uses those same numbers but lists them as "min." width...which I suspect means "minimum" and you can adjust the Ag. wheels wider...?...maybe? I guess we have all shared that sometimes the data on tractor literature is inconsistent.

Since you have the Ag. tires, could you possibly share your current Ag tires outside edge tire width for the front and rear? Then, could you look at your rear wheels and see if they are 2 piece and let me know if you think they could be disassembled and reassembled to create a wider Ag rear tire? I don't think the front are 2 pieces but they may be able to be turned "inside out" and remount the tire to create a wider front stance. yes, I am aware that the rear tire/wheel width is more important for stability on hills but having the front wide as possible just seems to help make me less anxious too.

I don't want to take away from your OP so if you would prefer I start this in a new thread just let me know and I will delete it. Just thought it may be good to have this ag tire width info available for all in your very comprehensive post.

I can take a pic tomorrow, but I have R1s set WIDE. Outside width is between 62” and 64”. They are about 1” or 2” wider than my 60” rotary cutter. The fronts are about the same width as well. I have a 3510SE. It’s a billy goat and mud monster. Much better than my old Deere 4400 with R4s. Don’t regret my choice one bit.

 

[jcbGM]

Oh, one important item to note about R1s set wide in the front. You can’t turn full lock. The lugs of of the front tires hit the loader mount. It’s not a huge reduction in steering radius, but should be noted nonetheless.

 

[mtsman2]

Front tires-
owner's manual states to centerline of rim 44.33 inches
measured to outside of front tires: 52.63 inches

Rear tires-
Owner's manual states two numbers:
Centerline of rims: 43.38 inches
Outside of rims/tires: 54.52 inches
Measured outside of tires: 56.0 inches.

Hope that helps, let me know if you need another dimension. Toukow

View attachment 611707View attachment 611708View attachment 611709

Many thanks TK! Exactly the information for which I was looking. And we can now all see that these numbers are much more useful than the printed numbers. the 3rd photo of the rear wheel is also very helpful. I can see where we can change things up. If you are up for it, can you post a photo of the inside and outside of the front wheel? If not, no worries.

Previously I did ask the dealer about widening the stance. They were agreeable to widen it on the rears and were hesitant to give me an answer on the front for a couple reasons. One of which is that they have not sold a 2610 with R1's yet so they could not give a solid answer.

Many thanks again. :thumbsup: