Well, I mentioned in another thread that I'd outline the reasons why I traded my B2920 Kubota in for a Deere 2320. And at the risk of criticism, I'm writing this up to save someone in my position the expense of making the same mistake... I believe the more you learn from other's experiences, the better able you are to make an informed decision for yourself.
In hindsight, my problem came from thinking that I could read specs on brochures to reach my decision instead of actual seat time. While I did drive both tractors briefly at the dealers, there was a week between test drives. I think anyone looking into these ought to spend time on whatever machines they're comparing back-to-back. Better yet, get the dealer to drop one off on your property. I'm not suggesting that reading this will cause you to reach the same conclusion - again, just for information.
On paper, the B2920 is the better buy: 3-speed hydro tranny, better hp-to-dollar ratio, stronger loader, higher hydraulic pump output, etc. It also came with the larger tires and the attachments were less expensive, but no less robust (in my opinion).
But, in reality - again to my opinion - it wasn't until I owned it for a year that certain cost-cutting features made me dissatisfied. I've written over and over about the pedal configuration - I couldn't get the dealer to fix the sticky pedal issue, so when fully depressed, either forward or reverse, it would stick. This resulted in two memorable experiences where I had a "panic" stop - stabbing at the brake. It was only momentary, mind you, but disconcerting nonetheless. Also, I brushhog by backing up as close to an embankment as I can - the tractor foot pedals caused me to be quite nervous that I'd roll backward, even though I was on solid ground. With the brake pedal on the opposite side, I feel that I can have confidence that I can position myself into place without risk of rollover.
Other cost-cutting features: I just don't like engaging the clutch to operate the PTO. The Deere's electronic PTO is far superior.
It sounds silly, but the 4WD lamp on the dash of the Deere is really nice when operating in the dark.
Another small detail, but nice in practice: you have to hold the Kubota key in place to glow the plugs, while the Deere has a detent in the key position that allows you to twist and release - wait for the dash light to extinguish - and turn over the tractor. I will say, it was nice to have the key on the Kubota positioned on the side of the dash, instead of in front of your knee - although I can't say as I've knocked into the Deere key yet.
On the Kubota, the foldable ROPS design allows for a lot of annoying and loud vibration (at idle) where the "split" meets. Kubota does offer two screws that you can tighten to prevent this, but I had forward-facing work lamps positioned in the same location. The forward-leaning top half of the ROPS on the Deere prevents this simply by having gravity working to keep the ROPS quiet.
It wasn't until I owned the B2920 for a while that I discovered that position control is vastly superior to 1/4 inching. Simple as that.
For the mid-mount mower, on the Kubota, you have to remove two pins and two little ramps and position them before you can drive over the deck. From the angle of the ramps, it would cause the mower deck to slide across the concrete floor of my garage unless I gave it some "oomph." The multiple brackets reminded me more of mid-80s design than what I would have expected in a new design for 2010. I found it very difficult to connect the linkage. The Deere design is far better, both in drive-over design as well as the support linkage, not to mention the ability to move it around with the 3-point.
The steering on the Kubota is very light and easy to operate, but no matter whether I had the tractor in 2WD or 4WD, the turf tires tore up the lawn any time I changed direction more than about 35-40 degrees - forget a full turn. It simply comes down to the geometry of the axle. The Deere geometry prevents the tires from tearing up the grass.
To access the motor on the Kubota, you have to lift the hood, then loosen 2 plastic screws, then remove 3 separate panels. I like the simplicity of lifting the Deere hood as one unit.
Finally, the loader: removal of the loader on the Deere is as simple as can be. Lift two levers (even sitting in the seat), put a little pressure on the joystick and back away. On the Kubota, however, you have to adjust the joystick, get off the tractor - and on each side of the loader, pull pins, drop levers, reconnect pins and get back on. Adjust the joystick again. Reach over on both sides and pull out two more removable pins and drop them into a bracket. Adjust the joystick once more and then back away. Also, it's not as easy for me to estimate whether the bucket is level based upon a parallel bracket - the Deere's level indicator rod works simply and accurately.
It is worth noting that the seat assembly is pretty nice on the Kubota - with springs, as opposed to rubber bumpers. Closer to a suspension seat, which is very comfortable. But, it's black and gets pretty hot in the sun.
Well, there it is. I'm looking forward to many years of enjoyment with the 2320. Hopefully, I'll soon forget that it just cost me a little more than the next person.
