P/S B7100/7200

[amitysanimal]

WHAT ARE YOU GOING TO USE FOR A DRAG LINK? YES THE PUMP STICKS OUT, BUT YOU STILL HAVE YOUR SIDE COVER. PART OF THE SCREEN ON COVER IS REMOVED. YOUR EXHAUST STICKS OUT ON LEFT SIDE AND YOUR AIR CLEANER ON THE RIGHT SIDE UNLESS YOU HAVE BEEN ABLE TO STICK THEM INSIDE OF PANNELS.

I am basically putting the steering cylinder in place of the drag link.

I still think tapping into the main hydraulics is far easier and cheaper than putting a whole new pump on, my little 3 cyl 16 HP tractor would end up with 4 hydraulic pumps on it. That seems a little bit much to me.

The main pump only runs the 3pt hitch, I RARELY use the 3 pt hitch anyways, and when I do I just won't try and steer while lifting the 3 pt hitch.

 

[Elsie71]

I received Mr. Paul's email but no photos.

 

[KubotainNH]

I'd like to see it too. Posting pictures is easy. Hit submit reply and under the text area where it says Additional Options there is a Manage attachments button. Click it and browse for the file. Hit submit. The only things you have to watch for is the size and type of file. Most pics are already jpg which work fine. Last I remember the file needs to be under 1meg in size. Obviously you need to know where the picture is on your PC and you may have to shrink the picture.

 

[mr.pauls@verizon.net]

FINALLY, I THINK A PICTURE IS READY. IF THIS WORKS, I WILL SEND MORE.

 

[Elsie71]

Mr.Pauls -
I cannot open the picture you sent me, but the one you posted on the forum came out good. Please send more.

 

[mr.pauls@verizon.net]

THE PUMP IS MOUNTED WHERE THE BELT TENSIONER WAS. A REMOTE FLUID RESOVOURE WAS MOUNTED ON THE FIREWALL. THE JD VALVE & DRAG LINK IS CONNECTED IN ORGINAL PLACE OF OLD DRAG LINK, WHICH ALLOWS FOR STEERING IN CASE OF FAILURE. A 1/4 INCH ANGLE WAS USED & BOLTED WHERE 3 HOLES WERE ALREADY THERE NEXT TO BELLHOUSING. CYLINDER WORKS INDEPENDTLY FROM THIS MOUNTING POINT TO FRONT STEERING KNUCKLE. BY THE WAY, P/S NEEDS ONE & HALF GPN FLOW CONTINUEOUSLY, WHETHER TURNING STEERING OR NOT, SO NOT TURNING WHEEL, WILL NOT INCREASE SPEED OF OTHER HRDRAULICS.

 

[Elsie71]

Thanks for the photos. Good looking system. I'm sure it works fine. Part of the difference between yours and mine is that my actuator valve and cylinder are one integral unit with no external hoses. I also chose to hook into the tractor's hydraulics which has worked fine for me, but I'm sure your axillary pump works well also. Like many things I have done over the years, I could do another one much easier. At the time I could not find a satisfactory flow divider, hence I used the hydraulic control unit off a B8200 that already had provisions to run my power steering. It also has outlets available to run any other hydraulic implements I might want to add in the future. I might tie into it sometime to run the cylinder that lifts my mower, but turning the valve under the seat to direct the flow from the 3 pt. to the mower has not been much of an inconvenience. Varmit's unit is a Kubota item, made for a B8200, but it is different from mine, which was also made for a B8200 and B7200. Apparently there was more than one available at one time or another.

 

[clarkvg]

I, like many others are watching your discussion on the different power steering systems, thanks.

I have decided to add power steering and would like to know how each of you would build/design a system today with the knowledge and experience you have had?

would a system using a actuator valve/cylinder be compatible with using a power steering pump? pros and cons?? if so where might one find a actuator valve/cylinder combo?

thanks

 

[KubotaSam]

Three cheers for this discussion!! I too would love to put power steering on my B7100. Keep the photos coming. Does anyone know the part number for the John Deere drag link that has the valve built into it? My 1953 Dodge Power Wagon has a similar setup on its power steering and it works great. As far as adding an extra pump or tapping into the 3 ph hydraulics I am not sure which would be easier or better. It certanly would not bother me to have the pump sticking out of the side. However every extra pump that you turn uses some of our precious 16 HP.

 

[KJM]

I have to admit I'm interested in P/S for my ancient B7100 too. Not for the effort reduction, but to conserve the (apparently) slightly fragile steering mechanism! I do a lot of work with the loader.

I think the issue of taking power from either the motor or the motor via the hydraulic pump is possibly overstated. In my case, I use the tractor at idle a lot with the loader - so a P/S pump addon would be preferable for me. Most power steering systems need a reasonable flow, and pinching some flow from the existing pump would not suit me at all. But the motor has enough power overall, so an additional P/S pump might be quite workable.

But there is a third way, I think. There are electric (servo) P/S systems too now. The poor little B7100 does not have much in the way of alternator, but I'm going to see if I can find a solution along these lines...

/Kevin

 

[mr.pauls@verizon.net]

I DON'T KNOW THE PART NUMBER FOR THE JD DRAG LINK, BUT IT IS FOR A JD MODEL 400 TRACTOR WHICH HAS YOUR ACCUATOR VALVE AS PART OF IT. IN ANSWERING THE ELECTRIC PUMP CONNCERNS, YOU ARE RIGHT, NOT ENOUGH CHARGING TO KEEP BATTERY UP. ALSO THE WHOLE IDEA FOR ME WAS, TO SEE HOW LOW I COULD KEEP THE OVERALL PRICE DOWN. IF YOU GET INTO A LOT OF BUCKS, THEN IT WOULD BE BETTER TO SELL THE B7100 AND BUY A TRACTOR WITH P/S.

 

[mr.pauls@verizon.net]

HEY GUYS, FOR THOSE OF YOU THAT SIILL WANT ANOTHER IDEA, HERE IT IS AND WILL WORK BEAUTIFULLY. TAKE A STEERING SECTOR OFF A 80-88 MONTE CARLO,OLDS CUTLAS,GRAND PRIX OR ANY G BODIED GM CAR.IN SAME PLACE AS TRACTOR SECTOR IS,STAND UP GM SECTOR WITH PITMAN ARM FACING OUT. TAKE 1/4 PLATE AND MAKE BRACKET. THIS WILL HAVE SECTOR IN ALMOST VERTICAL POSITION. YOUR STEERING COLOUM WILL NEED TO BE SHORTENED 5 INCHES AND A 13/16 UNVERSAL JOINT WITH 36 SPLINE WELDED TO IT AND OTHER END SLID OVER END OF SECTOR AND CLAMPED.THE COST FOR THIS SHOULD BE LESS THAN A HUNDRED BUCKS PLUS THE COST OF A PUMP. PART BREAKDOWN, USED SECTOR $25-40 UNIVERSAL JOINT $50-60. A LITTLE MORE WORK,BUT A CLEAN INSTALATION.

 

[Egon]

The recirculating ball steering box would be a nice fit. I had considered that at one time but the Mechanic at the dealership told me it would require too much flow from the tractor hydraulics and I really did not want to install a power steering pump driven of the fan belt as there is little room on the side. The loader frame really restricts side room.

The wreckers eould have charged me about 25 dollars for the steering unit.

 

[mr.pauls@verizon.net]

I HAVE A LOADER. THE PUMP ONLY PROTRUDES OUT ABOUT 2 INCHES. THE EXHAUST STICKS OUT 5 INCHES. SHOULD HAVE WAY PLENTY OF ROOM.

 

[Egon]

Muffler on one side, air cleaner on the other side also get in the road.

Turning the muffler was not an alternative.

 

[Elsie71]

Lots of interesting way to approach this issue, all of which appear to be good. I still think some might be underestimating the ability of the B7100 hydraulic system to handle the power steering. When I did mine I could not find a suitable flow divider (or proportional valve). Now that I have internet access, I might be able to find one that would work satisfactorily. It doesn't take much hydraulic flow to operate the power steering. At the time all I could find was the complete hydraulic block off a B8200 that already had the provisions for power steering. If I recall, it diverted 1 gpm to the power steering and left the rest of the flow for the tractor hydraulics. Other than the 3 pt. not working at a complete idle, nothing else seems to be affected, and this has not been a problem. It is sometimes a little inconvenient when hooking up a 3 pt. implement, but not enough to offset the tremendous advantage of having the power steering. I saw a complete steering column and cylinder off a 318 John Deere on Ebay recently that would appear to fit, although I haven't looked closely at my 318 to be sure. With that type of setup, all you would need would be a regular hydraulic cylinder with one end attached securely to the tractor frame and another to the steering arm on the left front wheel. Then just tap into the tractor's hydraulic block. Might still need a flow divider of some type however, I'm not sure. In any case, power steering makes a completely different tractor out of the 7100. If the kit I purchased was still available, it would be a simple conversion.

For those that asked, there is more than enough hydraulics to run the power steering at any speed. I apparently takes the first part of the hydraulic flow, leaving the rest for the 3 pt. or whatever.

 

[robbieo11]

Actually from my experiece the power steering is slowed by using the bucket or 3 point

 

[clarkvg]

You all Have been a great help to me.

I went to a guy who parts out compact JD's and he supplied me with the draglink, cylinder, and hoses off a JD 400 for $250.

I'm considering attaching the cylinder, as it is on the 400. The rod end of the cylinder attaches to the steering arm and the other to the frame cross piece under the radiator.

Can anyone think of any weaknesses of this design?
Thanks, Clark

 

[mr.pauls@verizon.net]

clarkvg//// I THINK IT WILL WORK PERFECT. I HATE TO SEE YOU PAY THAT MUCH MONEY, BUT LEAST IF THERE IS SOMETHING WRONG WITH IT, YOU HAVE SOMEBODY TO COMPLAIN TO.

 

[Elsie71]

clarkvg - I think your JD400 system will work fine. All you will need now is to find a way to tie into your hydraulics. Keep us posted. Pictures will help.