PA-300, my opinion.

[arrow]

arrow I firmly believe these inverters like one brand of rod over the other. My PA-200 really likes ESAB's 10P-Plus. My V350-Pro, and the new PA-300 like 5P-Plus. Today I used ESAB 10P for the root, and the PA-300 did very well, but I tired one 5/32-inch rod of 10P for the cap, at 1 on the arc force, I didn't like it so I switched to 5/32-inch 5P-Plus, and it did very well. You just need to find the correct rod for you and your inverter welder. It's so strange to me, my SA-200s could care less what brand of rod you use!:confused3:

I have witnessed this myself. Its like a rifle shooting more accurately with certain bullets. There is so much variation that is particular to an individual welder in terms of rod use that it probably cannot be objectively defined even with the same welder. As you say, its an experiment. Wished there were something to at least put one in the ball park. My welder loves 1/8" 7014 Hobarts. Likes Fourney better than the Hobarts with 6011 and 6013. I guess the real test is to run some 7018 and see how that slags up.

 

[CNC Dan]

Shield why is your slag looking like you can "blow" it off with a strong breath. Granted, I have never used 7018 but on my 6011 and 6013 and 7014 usage with an inverter welder type, the slag has to be hammered off quite deliberately as if imbedded in the weld. I burn 6011 at 90 and 7014 at 125 if amps have anything to do with it.

I'm not sure what pic you refer to, but 7018 has a tendency to have the slag peel up on it's own as it cools when everything is just right.
Right amps.
Right travel speed.
Right arc length.
Right dryness of rod.

I had this happen to me while building a vise, and by the time I got my phone to take a pic, it had fallen on to the floor.

 

[arrow]

I'm not sure what pic you refer to, but 7018 has a tendency to have the slag peel up on it's own as it cools when everything is just right.
Right amps.
Right travel speed.
Right arc length.
Right dryness of rod.

I had this happen to me while building a vise, and by the time I got my phone to take a pic, it had fallen on to the floor.

It is the 7018 picture. It seems to be a very accommodating rod. I should get some.

 

[Shield Arc]

Oh you were talking about 7018! I was talking about 6010. That 7018 weld where the slag curled up, the rod had been out of the oven about 30-seconds before I burned it.
I've been having good luck with ESAB's Atom Arc, and Acclaim.

 

[lilranch2001]

I have 2 old cans of open 7018 ESAB Atom Arc, and last night I was tired at 10:30 and tried to rush and do some beads, since I was anxious to try the new PA-300, and the beads sucked.
Tonight I came home and fired her up and ran one bead and it looked better.

I think I have to get the grinder out and grind off some of the rust off of my skills

Heading out to the barn after I fix some dinner!

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

Here is what applies to me.
Rods are Hobart (6011 and 7014)and 6013 and other 6011's are Fourney. 2. Rods are new or I should say bought within the month. 3. Polarity is red to red black to black. 4 and5. Played around with heat running rods hot,cold and in between and slag removal the same. 6. 6011 is cellulose and I wouldn't now how to change polarity. 7. Probably the most applicable but my welds do look normal on sides without undercut or side lift. 8. Cannot manipulate arc force on my welder if it is a dialed in procedure.

Wait a minute....
Red to red and black to black?
I think we may literally have gotten some wires crossed. What are we talking here? Are you referring to your wiring to the welder? If so, then that is wrong. Please read the manual! The red, third leg is for 3 PHASE use only! I believe I even stated that in one of the threads as a caution since many people are not familiar with standard wire coloring for welders. If this is the case, please remedy immediately.

Changing polarity, as I am referring to it, is simply changing which port your electrode holder and work clamp plug in. Normally your electrode holder is plugged into the + which is referred to as reverse polarity. But when it is plugged into the -, then it is called straight polarity.

PS, Forney is one of the cheap rods I referred to as it is usually a mom/pop hardware store brand...made in some unknown factory.

 

[square1]

Wait a minute....
Red to red and black to black?
I think we may literally have gotten some wires crossed.

I think arrow is referencing a different welder. He said earlier his has no arc force adjustment.

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

You're right...Worked all night, late into the AM today before going to bed for an "priority" project last night for Everlast. I'm a little bleary eyed.

 

[Underdog57]

My PA300 lays down beautiful welds with 7018 , I can't believe how good they look and I am really rusty. I have Lincoln rods.

 

[Raspy]

Now that we are all getting settled in with our new PA300s. Do we know how many guys got in on the deal?

I'm lovin mine and have been welding up a storm on my new steel front door. The precise amp adjustment and DC output has really made a difference for me. Next in importance is the hot start. Makes 7018 start so easy. Next is the arc force, still getting used to how to use it.

My understanding of the arc force is that it keeps the amps up even with a very short arc length, is that right? It seems to help keep the arc
going even if I dip the rod into the puddle, but turned up too much it is like turning up the welding amps.

I'm finding overhead and vertical welding with 6011 and 7018 is easier than ever before and the 7018 flat beads look like a machine weld. I am so happy with this welder and it came along right when I needed it.