Paint/coating for a bare metal attachment?

[Egon]

First rust prevention/stabilizer and then a paint of your choice.

Lots of spray paints may include a rust stabilizing agent.

 

[Industrial Toys]

A little surface rust with a light sanding actually makes the paint stick better and it won't continue to rust.

It is just my suspicion that powder coat does not fill the pors of the metal as well as a liquid paint. In reality, I think it bonds far better to itself than the metal. I'm glad that I have bought pretty much all the equipment I will eve buy because I would have little interest in buying anything powder coated. That is anything that is gonna be outside.

 

[Garrik]

Ok, after a few days of chasing around and getting a different answer/suggestion at every turn (very much appreciate the thoughts shared here and by PM, but there was just no consistency in the answers that I got), I made a decision.

I felt that the original suggestion of a two part epoxy base with a two part urethane overcoat was probably the right call for maximum protection. But I was unwilling to do the required work and spend the $350. I also decided that the various single part consumer products, like Tractor Paint and consumer Rustoleum were not going to give me the robust finish that I wanted.

So like any good engineer, I split the baby and went with a two part urethane - the System 9800 from Rustoleum. It is a commercial/industrial product, but my local Grainger could get it in 48 hours. It is a high solids, high build, direct to metal two part urethane mastic, designed for use in moderate to severe industrial environments. It can be applied with a brush or roller.

I will report back if I learn anything more in the application process.

Thanks again for all of the input and insights.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

I use a zinc rich prime coat on clean or lightly rusted steel after wiping down with solvent. Then top off with 3 coats of Rustoleum spray can gloss enamel. The zinc primer bonds well.

Ron

 

[fried1765]

Ok, after a few days of chasing around and getting a different answer/suggestion at every turn (very much appreciate the thoughts shared here and by PM, but there was just no consistency in the answers that I got), I made a decision.

I felt that the original suggestion of a two part epoxy base with a two part urethane overcoat was probably the right call for maximum protection. But I was unwilling to do the required work and spend the $350. I also decided that the various single part consumer products, like Tractor Paint and consumer Rustoleum were not going to give me the robust finish that I wanted.

So like any good engineer, I split the baby and went with a two part urethane - the System 9800 from Rustoleum. It is a commercial/industrial product, but my local Grainger could get it in 48 hours. It is a high solids, high build, direct to metal two part urethane mastic, designed for use in moderate to severe industrial environments. It can be applied with a brush or roller.

I will report back if I learn anything more in the application process.

Thanks again for all of the input and insights.

From one engineer to another........
ANY industrial TWO part product is certainly the better choice over powder coat, or any consumer type Rustoleum.

 

[musselmark]

ZINGA Film Galvanising System - Zingametall

I built a big boat trailer and had it sandblasted then I painted it with this. In and out if salt water frequently. It's been about 7 years and still holding up great. There equivalent coatings available from fastenal as well.

 

[Wyobuckaroo]

If you look up the term "worlds worst painter" you will see a picture of me..
With that said, I have had my best luck with brush on tractor colors paint. Green, red, blue, orange, black, doesn't matter. What ever is on sale. For a Prep process I go over new or used steel with a power wire brush or sanding disk as needed. Wipe down with alcohol, acetone, cheap paint thinner, brake parts cleaner, what ever I have at hand.

My painting will include brush marks, drips, runs, you name it.. Doesn't matter.. Another key is to give it time to dry, cure, set as needed.. Some times it takes as much as 2 weeks or so.. So be it.. I'm not into show room pretty, durability is more important..
My 5 cents of opinion..

 

[fried1765]

If you look up the term "worlds worst painter" you will see a picture of me..
With that said, I have had my best luck with brush on tractor colors paint. Green, red, blue, orange, black, doesn't matter. What ever is on sale. For a Prep process I go over new or used steel with a power wire brush or sanding disk as needed. Wipe down with alcohol, acetone, cheap paint thinner, brake parts cleaner, what ever I have at hand.

My painting will include brush marks, drips, runs, you name it.. Doesn't matter.. Another key is to give it time to dry, cure, set as needed.. Some times it takes as much as 2 weeks or so.. So be it.. I'm not into show room pretty, durability is more important..
My 5 cents of opinion..

"durability"......means hardener is added!

 

[ksJoe]

I keep 2-part black epoxy DTM primer around. It says it should be top-coated to protect it from UV, but I I don't top-coat it. It dries very hard, doesn't peal, and is an attractive flat black.

For mixing small quantities, I use a ziplock bag and a digital scale. Close the bag, and squish it around like a ketchup packet. Then spray it with a cheap Harbor Freight spray gun.

I get it from summitracing.com. I started with quarts, but now I get it in gallons.

 

[BrokenTrack]

I am late to the party, but for my homemade implements I use Implement Paint that I can buy at Tractor Supply.

I have found that it works really well.