Paint/coating for a bare metal attachment?

[fried1765]

I am late to the party, but for my homemade implements I use Implement Paint that I can buy at Tractor Supply.

I have found that it works really well.

"Majic" paint (sold by TSC) is a low quality paint!

 

[AnotherBueller]

Aviation finishes out last everything else. I painted a bunch of USPS collection mail boxes and 10 years late, if you looked at it after a rain, it looked like your new car. PITA to spray, two part mix and you MUST wear a respirator.
Airliners are painted maybe every 10 years and live in a very harsh environment (temp swings from +120 on the ground to - 40F in flight; rain/hail at 500 mph). A very thin coat is all it takes, remember paint has weight and an airliner will need in excess of 20 gallons. Expensive though $$$$.

 

[RalphVa]

I'd start with Rustoleum's Rust Reformer. It turns an iron oxide (you won't even see it in many places) into iron sulfide. Used it once on my Gravely snow plow where it was worn bare. Never ever rusted again. With it, you really don't need anything else, but you could apply other Rustoleum products over it if you do not like the black (the color of iron sulfide and the color of the Reformer diluent).

I've used products of another name from other suppliers since around 1970ish that react iron oxide. They're the best on bare metal before you apply anything else.

Ralph

 

[CoyPatton]

I'd start with Rustoleum's Rust Reformer. It turns an iron oxide (you won't even see it in many places) into iron sulfide. Used it once on my Gravely snow plow where it was worn bare. Never ever rusted again. With it, you really don't need anything else, but you could apply other Rustoleum products over it if you do not like the black (the color of iron sulfide and the color of the Reformer diluent).

I've used products of another name from other suppliers since around 1970ish that react iron oxide. They're the best on bare metal before you apply anything else.

Ralph

I have have also several different brands of a rust convertor over the years. There are lots on the market. Buy a brand you like their products and treat the rust. Personally, I have found that a powered wire brush to remove loose flakes gives me the best results. I like to clean to bare metal around the rust area, mostly to know I have the rust area contained. The rust converter does not have much effect on clean non-rusted metal.
The stuff from years ago claimed it finished as a primer paint coat, but the stuff I have used more recently from same brands says to primer coat it after it cures. Follow the directions of your product. I like a self etching primer then paint. I have a few things that I did 10+ years ago and no rust reappearing where treated.
I think any well established brand of rust convertor, primer and paint should do you well.