Paint for implements - Rustoleum, store brand equivalent, or what?

[California]

I asked this over in Implements and got a few excellent replies but I'd still like to see a wider range of opinions:

I see Rustoleum red primer and finish paint next to store brand equivalents at Ace Hardware, TSC etc. The house brands are less expensive. Anybody know if the store brands are the same thing relabeled?


Second question - Is alkyd oil-base 'exterior' paint suitable as the prime or finish coat for implements left outdoors?

One more question - 'Latex exterior metal primer'. Any good?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[CADplans]

If you like,,, yellow, black, or white,,,
the best paint (cheap too!!) is the paint at the local CAT dealer.
It is self priming,, and offers very long life.

 

[2458n]

Rustoleum offered a lobster red can of spray paint that was a dead match for Kubota. Learned of it here. Bad news is Walmart no longer stocks it. Will be trying to make my last ten cans last - as the search goes on.

 

[bcp]

Rustoleum offered a lobster red can of spray paint that was a dead match for Kubota. Learned of it here. Bad news is Walmart no longer stocks it. Will be trying to make my last ten cans last - as the search goes on.

Looks like it can still be ordered from Home Depot.

Rust-Oleum Stops Rust 12 oz. Gloss Lobster Red Protective Enamel Spray Paint (Case of 6)-254 - The Home Depot

Bruce

 

[SJay]

I would not us any latex paint on your implements. It will not hold up. I have had success with Rust-Oleum brand oil based paints. Another good choice is Benjamin Moore Impervo Oil based paints (getting harder to get because of government regs)

 

[RedNeckGeek]

Five years ago I painted a steel gate with Rustoleum Hammertone in a dark gray. Now it's all faded and chalky, and I'm sorry I used it.

Three years ago I used some TSC rattle can orange to touch up a Kubota FEL, and now it has faded to a really ugly pastel. Sorry about that one, too.

Were I to do it again, and I probably will some day, I'd go to an automotive paint dealer and buy the best quality base coat/clear coat finish they sold. Automotive paint has UV stabilizers in it, especially the higher end clears, that make it much more resistant to fading. The only problem is that most of them also need a two part urethane primer, and most of those will cause conventional finishes to lift. So that means stripping off the bad paint down to the metal. But it'll be the last time I ever need to paint 'em again...

 

[/pine]

A quality finish can be achieved with most decent quality paints...The key is in the application and preparation...i.e., read and follow the directions...pay attention to the ambient temperature and humidity...

 

[sld]

I've had great luck with the spray cans at Tractor Supply.

I do prefer oil based any more if it's stored outside in the elements. For that I have been using Rustoleum in the 1/2 quart cans. Don't know about house brands as Rustoleum is pretty cheap to start with.

 

[ray66v]

Were I to do it again, and I probably will some day, I'd go to an automotive paint dealer and buy the best quality base coat/clear coat finish they sold. Automotive paint has UV stabilizers in it, especially the higher end clears, that make it much more resistant to fading. The only problem is that most of them also need a two part urethane primer, and most of those will cause conventional finishes to lift. So that means stripping off the bad paint down to the metal. But it'll be the last time I ever need to paint 'em again...

Yes, automotive paint resists fading better. That's why it often costs 10x more, and up.

I have decades of experience with automotive paint.

While it can provide a little more UV resistance, base coat/clear coat, is not necessary, if unless you are spraying a metallic finish. There are many single stage automotive products that will work just fine with solid colors. And, can actually provide better chip resistance, at a lower cost

You do not have to use a 2 part primer under automotive finishes. I have sprayed tons of it over soluble primers, like lacquer primers, and enamel primers. It can work fine.

However, the quality of the primer, and the prep work, has more to do with the durability of the job, than the paint.

A two part primer can cross link, on a molecular level, with a two part finish, if applied properly. And, this gives the highest level of chip resistance.

For implements, as the OP was looking for, a good two part primer under industrial enamel, like Rustoleum, holds up very well, as far as corrosion resistance is concerned. And, is reasonably economical. But, it does fade.

 

[sixdogs]

The best deal is OEM paint from the dealer. It is in their best interest to have nice looking equipment around so they make a quality paint at a relatively inexpensive price. There are old threads on this that detail things better but farm store paint generally sucks and won't last. Rustoleum is better than farm store if you can find the colors but OEM is the easy winner.

I use Rustoleum Rusty Metal primer on most farm equipment and then follow up with the correct OEM and many people remark what a great job I did when it really is just the right paint. Buy OEM and do it right.

Oh, use a good Harbor Freight HVLP paint gun. They make a couple that are surprisingly good.


http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/parts-repairs/355488-why-only-use-oem-paint.html

 

[California]

Lots of good advice! What I've learned here and from sixdogs' linked thread:

Don't bother with my Alkyd metal-capable paint that I have left over from house painting. Or the Latex Metal Primer a friend gave me.

I need to buy more Rustoleum Rusty Metal primer and use this for the first coat on everything. That's what I primed with on this project, refinishing iron patio furniture recently, followed by Rustoleum enamel. The HF HVLP $9 spray gun did a great job on this, much better than I expected. A couple of tractor wheels included in that project were the only flat surfaces, they look great too. Hopefully that gun is sufficient for implements.

For topcoats I learned something here, buy tractor OEM paint for superior quality at moderate price.

I wasn't thinking of using the primer with the hazardous additive and I definitely wont use that after reading the safety warnings.

Amazon has product descriptions for Rustoleum's special paint lines, Industrial, Farm Equipment, etc. Those sound a lot better than TSC's Majic line. But tractor OEM paint sounds like the best buy for durability.

What else don't I know?

 

[sixdogs]

...

What else don't I know?

For dirt work implements like I use, I scrape the loose paint off with a screwdriver and sometimes hit with a 5" wire wheel on a grinder. Then I wash everything with a brush and dishwashing detergent, let dry and then the Rustoleum primer. The detergent is a great degreaser.

Two coats of paint. The first is a light mist and follow up shortly with a heavier one.


Here's another thread. Check out the quality of real quality Ford red paint.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/278852-repaint-old-ford-dearborn-two.html


And one last one. Tell me that isn't the most beautiful red you have ever seen.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/312434-1950s-dearborn-cultivator-find-rebuild.html


OK, one more. Green.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/219879-scored-one-shank-ripper-subsoiler.html


Have fun and post pictures.

 

[ray66v]

I wasn't thinking of using the primer with the hazardous additive and I definitely wont use that after reading the safety warnings.

While the Isocyanate additive is potentially harmful, so are the other dozens of dangerous, cancer causing chemicals you will be exposed to, when spraying any oil based paint.

The protective equipment required, and the safety procedures you should follow, with, or without, an isocyanate additive, are exactly the same.

 

[California]

Is paint thinner wipedown as good as detergent before priming bare/scraped metal? Seems like it would be better than a chance of painting over water residue left in joints and cracks.

 

[CADplans]

Is paint thinner wipedown as good as detergent before priming bare/scraped metal? Seems like it would be better than a chance of painting over water residue left in joints and cracks.

There are two things you need to remove,,,
oily residue
dirt.

Paint thinner is great for oily residue, not so much for dirt.
A detergent is better at removing both!! :thumbsup:

 

[ray66v]

Is paint thinner wipedown as good as detergent before priming bare/scraped metal? Seems like it would be better than a chance of painting over water residue left in joints and cracks.

I would only use a solvent based product at that point. Two rags, one to apply, one to remove. Only apply as much as you can wipe off, before it dries.

Any dirt should have already been removed, before you started prepping.

As far as what's in the cracks, or joints, that's what a blow gun is for.

 

[RalphVa]

I asked this over in Implements and got a few excellent replies but I'd still like to see a wider range of opinions:

I see Rustoleum red primer and finish paint next to store brand equivalents at Ace Hardware, TSC etc. The house brands are less expensive. Anybody know if the store brands are the same thing relabeled?


Second question - Is alkyd oil-base 'exterior' paint suitable as the prime or finish coat for implements left outdoors?

One more question - 'Latex exterior metal primer'. Any good?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Best Rustoleum primer is something called Rust Reformer. It's black and turns any rust black as well. I once sprayed some on a snow plow. It never rusted again.

Ralph

 

[California]

Best Rustoleum primer is something called Rust Reformer. It's black and turns any rust black as well. I once sprayed some on a snow plow. It never rusted again.

Ralph

I've used Rust Reformer (spray can) where I wanted to bond and hide rust, with minimal prep and a single coat. But I wonder if the red primer gives better adhesion when spraying large areas that will see abrasion, like a trailer bed. How are they different?

 

[sixdogs]

Don't know about the converter but with the Rusty Red Primer I don't wait too long for it to dry. Sometimes overnight but often just an hour or two in the hot sun. Same thing with final paint on implements; I let the first light coat go 15 minutes to an hour when it's hot and then hit the second heavier coat. Works great for me.

 

[teejk]

I've used Rust Reformer (spray can) where I wanted to bond and hide rust, with minimal prep and a single coat. But I wonder if the red primer gives better adhesion when spraying large areas that will see abrasion, like a trailer bed. How are they different?

My guess is that they are one and the same. I use red primer a lot because I can see what needs a top-coat.