OP
gt14
Silver Member
Thank you again great advice
Painting YM-146 Clearcoat or no clearcoat any advice
- Thread starter gt14
- Start date
stuckmotor
Super Member
- Joined
- Sep 23, 2009
- Messages
- 5,422
- Location
- Lower Up State S.C.
- Tractor
- AC WD 34 hp/3500 lbs MF 261 60 hp/5380 lbs
The clear coat on a car new car I bought, bubbled up, came off in spots, and looked awful. This was a while back, I hope clear coat has been improved since then.
alexpops
Platinum Member
West Marine or Defender might have some roll/tip topside paints you can check out. Those face similar chemical exposures as tractors with salt water tossed in. Best results will always be spray, but for the same safety concerns, many diy boaters will opt for roll tip paint.
KennyG
Elite Member
There have been cases of clear coat failure due to improper application. Clear coat is supposed to be applied shortly after the color coat so it fully bonds with it. When done correctly it is rock hard and almost indestructible. If the intent is to clear coat an existing, fully cured finish, there may be products that claim to be OK for this, but I would be very concerned about the condition of the base coat.
OP
gt14
Silver Member
OP
gt14
Silver Member
I also installed a rear LED work-light on the fender. Yanmar looks like they made the fender to add a light since they have an extra hole with a grommet through the fender and under the fender for the wire. I wired it to my head lights which are also custom LED with a plasma cut grill.
Attachments
Lots of misconceptions about paint.
If you are using spray cans, or other low end products, i.e. industrial enamels, whether you clear it or not, it's still cheap paint. It's still a soluble finish, which means it can be softened with solvent. It can be fine for farm implements, and misc. items, but it's not ideal, if you want something that will last.
a urethane automotive finish isn't soluble, and is much harder when it reaches full cure. But, a higher skill level is needed to use them properly, and, achieve a good finish. They are also much more costly.
To achieve the highest level of durability, each layer, including the primer, or sealer, needs to have isocyanate hardener in it. And, they must be applied as per manufacture instructions. Usually, that would be a "wet on wet' application. Which means a limited amount of time between the application of each layer. This allows the layers to link together, on a molecular level. That kind of finish is better able to resist chipping.
As far as isocyanate health issues go, there are hundreds of cancer causing chemicals in paint. The required level of protection, is exactly the SAME, regardless of whether you are using a product with isocyantes in it, or not. You don't know which chemical is going to get you, so there is no short cut here.
If you don't have experience using automotive paints, you probably also don't have the required grade of compressed air either. And, the cost to have clean dry air, along with the appropriate level of personal protective equipment, make it a much better idea to hire the paint work out.
If you are still determined to do the work yourself, I would suggest you start out with a lower end, single stage urethane automotive finish. That can give you a solid finish, and shinny paint job, without getting overly complicated, and spending a mountain of cash. See your local body shop suppliers to find out what your options are there.
Make sure you get the product data sheets, and read them carefully. Spend some time making up some test panels, to get used to the product, before you commit to doing something that matters.
And, most importantly, if you are painting something and it's not coming out, STOP PAINTING, until you figure out the problem. 99% of the time, beginners just keep spraying, and keep screwing up, making more and more work to redo it all.
All modern automotive paints are made to be applied how you want them to look. You don't paint them expecting it to "flow out". If it's going on like crap, you're going to end up with crap.
If you have your equipment, and your paint set up properly for the temperature you are working at, you should be able to apply medium to wet coats, and they should look flat right away. Ideally, they will start to tack up within a few minutes after you finish applying a coat. If it doesn't tack up after 10 minutes, what you're using is too slow for your conditions. You need a faster hardener, or reducer or both.
Conversly, if it's not going on smooth, you need to apply it wetter, or use slower chemicals.
Good luck.
If you are using spray cans, or other low end products, i.e. industrial enamels, whether you clear it or not, it's still cheap paint. It's still a soluble finish, which means it can be softened with solvent. It can be fine for farm implements, and misc. items, but it's not ideal, if you want something that will last.
a urethane automotive finish isn't soluble, and is much harder when it reaches full cure. But, a higher skill level is needed to use them properly, and, achieve a good finish. They are also much more costly.
To achieve the highest level of durability, each layer, including the primer, or sealer, needs to have isocyanate hardener in it. And, they must be applied as per manufacture instructions. Usually, that would be a "wet on wet' application. Which means a limited amount of time between the application of each layer. This allows the layers to link together, on a molecular level. That kind of finish is better able to resist chipping.
As far as isocyanate health issues go, there are hundreds of cancer causing chemicals in paint. The required level of protection, is exactly the SAME, regardless of whether you are using a product with isocyantes in it, or not. You don't know which chemical is going to get you, so there is no short cut here.
If you don't have experience using automotive paints, you probably also don't have the required grade of compressed air either. And, the cost to have clean dry air, along with the appropriate level of personal protective equipment, make it a much better idea to hire the paint work out.
If you are still determined to do the work yourself, I would suggest you start out with a lower end, single stage urethane automotive finish. That can give you a solid finish, and shinny paint job, without getting overly complicated, and spending a mountain of cash. See your local body shop suppliers to find out what your options are there.
Make sure you get the product data sheets, and read them carefully. Spend some time making up some test panels, to get used to the product, before you commit to doing something that matters.
And, most importantly, if you are painting something and it's not coming out, STOP PAINTING, until you figure out the problem. 99% of the time, beginners just keep spraying, and keep screwing up, making more and more work to redo it all.
All modern automotive paints are made to be applied how you want them to look. You don't paint them expecting it to "flow out". If it's going on like crap, you're going to end up with crap.
If you have your equipment, and your paint set up properly for the temperature you are working at, you should be able to apply medium to wet coats, and they should look flat right away. Ideally, they will start to tack up within a few minutes after you finish applying a coat. If it doesn't tack up after 10 minutes, what you're using is too slow for your conditions. You need a faster hardener, or reducer or both.
Conversly, if it's not going on smooth, you need to apply it wetter, or use slower chemicals.
Good luck.
California
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2004
- Messages
- 14,664
- Location
- An hour north of San Francisco
- Tractor
- Yanmar YM240 Yanmar YM186D
GT14, that looks fantastic!
And a general paint question: Is Rustoleum's topcoat, over Rustoleum red primer, suitable where diesel could get spilled on it?
I hope that HF sprayer is faster than the similar Wagner unit I used many years ago. A whole afternoon to spray a kitchen. Per coat. Never again!Or just a nice electronic air sprayer on the cheap, still better than foam brushes, roll on or whatever.
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And a general paint question: Is Rustoleum's topcoat, over Rustoleum red primer, suitable where diesel could get spilled on it?