Parking pad (Gravel)

dmftoy1 · Aug 28, 2003

Ok, I'm doing my first FEL project with my tractor. What I need to do is level out an area near my garage for a parking pad for my camper. The pad is already level side to side, but it drops about 4 inches from front to back. (in 25-26 feet). My questions:

1. Do I need to pull up the sod before laying down the dirt to level it? (I don't mind doing it, but if I don't have to dig then I won't.

2. I'm going to use fill/black dirt to create the level surface, but I have about 5-7 tons of pea gravel just laying around. Can I use that for the gravel surface? (I'm concerned that it won't compact) I'd like to use this gravel as it's just laying around, but I won't if it's not good for this type of thing.

3. What's the best way to "compact" the pad so that I can park on it? (I've been parking on it already for 3-4 months with no sinking). Do I need to rent one of those vibrationg compactors or is there a better way?

Any and all advice is greatly appreciated.

Regards,
Dave

CTyler · Aug 28, 2003

If your going to pour concrete then you should remove the grass. If its just going to be rocked you don't have to remove it. Later down the road you may have to add a bit more rock though, personaly I'd remove it.

The pea gravel will not pack like crushed rock and get hard. If you were pouring concrete over it then it would be ok. They use gravel under a lot of the driveways around here. The pea gravel consolidates but doesn't really pack. Picture yourself holding a handfull of marbles then squeeze. The pea gravel will always be kinda mushy until it gets some dirt mixed in with it.

If the pad is just rock I'd use 1 1/2 crushed rock. Driving over it will pack it. If its to be under concrete then pack it with a vibrating plate.

CTyler · Aug 28, 2003

( drops about 4 inches from front to back. )

Forgot.... You want the water to drain away from the building. Code, here anyway, is 1/4" per foot or 2 1/2" per 10'.

Changed 4" to 2 1/2"

TonyC · Aug 28, 2003

Coincidentally I am doing the exact same thing right now. I have done it in the past as well. I use a packed gravel pad under my tractor implements, trailer etc. There are a lot of ways to do this but I usually start by just spraying the area well with Roundup. This kills off all of the growth very well. Then I get what we call crush and run which is driveway gravel mixed with rock dust. Spreading this with the FEL is a simple process. If I'm just doing a small area I pack it with the tractor. If I'm doing a larger area or one that I want to be especially nice, I rent a plate compactor. They cost me $45 for 4 hours or $60 a day. Usually 4 hours is enough. This does a great job especially when you are trying to raise one end to level. I keep a little extra gravel on the side in case I what to make adjustments while compacting. Whatever's left can be saved for future adjustments or just spread over the area and compacted in. This method works great but of course rain will work on it over time. I have areas like this under cover that stay nice for quite a long time. Hope this helps. Good Luck!

adegiulio · Aug 28, 2003

Ctyler, not to bust chops, but 1/4" per foot equals 2 1/2 inches over 10 feet, not 4 inches per 10 feet.

I'm liking the advice in this thread, I need to do the same for my tractor, which is currently just left out in the woods. Since we have cleared so much, its time to put down a surface which is level and will drain well. It also easier to do mainenance on a nice level, compact surface rather than the mud i park in now...

Anthony

WVBill · Aug 28, 2003

I concur with the others. Use Crusher Run and definitely use Round-Up.
I'd go one step farther - remove the dead sod and put down landscape fabric (OK, two steps) under your gravel or in six months you'll find yourself mowing your parking pad. (Voice of experience here) /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif . There's seeds or whatever in the sod that the RoundUp doesn't kill and the landscape fabric will help keep the underlying mud from squishing up through your gravel.

Docsknotinn · Aug 28, 2003

I just did the same thing for my tractor and implements. My pea gravel is several inches deep in a few places. I did spray with round up first. Pea Gravel will not compact easily, but the up side is that it drains well. If you want it compacted it might be best to level it first with a finer soil that has been cleaned and then tamp it adding the pea gravel on top. Pea stone is easy to work with and level witha FEL. Dave

CTyler · Aug 28, 2003

Dohhh!!!

TonyC · Aug 28, 2003

I don't disagree with using landscape fabric but in my experience when using a relatively thin layer of gravel, it doesn't pack as well. On the dirt, it packs tight and forms a base that gets even tighter over time. On fabric it tends to slide around too much. I stopped using it and solved the problem by spotting with Roundup as weeds pop up. A few squirts here and there keeps everything down. Over time they stop coming up.

Docsknotinn · Aug 28, 2003

My thoughts were to try to get as little dirt mixed in with the pea stone as possible to hopefully avoid more weeds. But a little blast of round up is no biggie. How deep did you place yours and still get it to compact ? Dave

dmftoy1 · Aug 28, 2003

So is the general consensus that I can use the pea gravel if I don't use landscape fabric (as it will compress into the dirt)? I don't really mind hitting it with roundup a few times a year to keep it clean as I have to do that to my driveway anyway.

Worst case, if I don't like the pea gravel can I just lay larger on top or would I have to clean it up first?

Thanks again,
Dave

Bird · Aug 28, 2003

Dave, one of the best, longest lasting non-paved driveways I know of is one on which the guy spread pea gravel, drove on it a few weeks to pack it into the dirt a bit, and then spread crushed rock (<1") on top of that. Trouble is I don't know just how much he used or whether you have enough; I just know if I were in your place, I'd get the dirt level, spread the pea gravel you have, wet it down and pack or compress it (by driving on it if I didn't have anything else) then put down the crushed rock on top of that.

dmftoy1 · Aug 28, 2003

Thanks, I think I'll probably try that since the pea gravel is free! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif (besides, i don't have a place to put it and I hate where it is. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Have a good one,
Dave

Docsknotinn · Aug 28, 2003

Is crusher run and crushed stone the same ?? Is that like slag ? or the stuff that kinda pea gravel ish but not washed ? I had the pea stone brought in to help with the grouse and the guy that brought it said I should try that as it often has smaller stone in it. Dave

CTyler · Aug 28, 2003

Crusher run is crushed rock, limestone around here, with the fines in it. You can get it in various sizes I've gotten 3", 1 1/2" and 3/4" for different things.

fivestring · Aug 28, 2003

Crusher run; crush & run; crush run....

It's rock with rock dust and fine crushed rock (like sand) mixed in. When wet, it spreads fairly well. When dry, it packs hard and the rock dust fills in gaps. It's excellent for the base layer, then come back after it settles and put regular rock on top.
Around here, it's about $150 - $200 a dump load.

Hambone · Aug 28, 2003

Here is what I would do, did do.
I would level up, still let water run off. Put down your free pea.
Around here we only have crushed limestone, no gravel.
Let it set, drive on it, park on it or what ever.
Top with a load of #53's, That is a mixture of size crushed stone with lime for packing.
Oops, first spray with round up, or similar.

Currmudgeon · Aug 29, 2003

( Crusher run; crush & run; crush run....

It's rock with rock dust and fine crushed rock (like sand) mixed in. When wet, it spreads fairly well. When dry, it packs hard and the rock dust fills in gaps. It's excellent for the base layer, then come back after it settles and put regular rock on top.
Around here, it's about $150 - $200 a dump load. )

It's the material, exactly as it comes off the crusher, with no control over the gradation. Likewise, pit run is what came out of the pit, bank run is what came out of the bank, etc. Quality is variable and depends on the gravel pit that's producing it.

At the prices you cited, I'd look into getting road stone, the stuff your local DOT uses for road base. That's screened to have the right mix of stones, sand, and fines. The name varies from state to state, but the gravel operator should know ahat the local terminology is.

Libertine · Aug 30, 2003

dmftoy1:

I don't have that much experience building "roads", but, I just put in 1200-1500 sq. ft. parking area similar to what you are doing. I tried a couple of different grades of rock. Bird's suggestion of using 1" minus is right on. I am not familiar with "crusher rock" some have mentioned but it sounds similar - a thing by any other name and all that. 4"-8" of 1" minus will, when packed (and it packs EASY), stop weeds and make a good enough base for concrete or asphalt later.

JEH

Docsknotinn · Aug 31, 2003

I think in the area of my property the material is called 23a. It is the same mixture the county uses for roads there. I know it has clay in it as well. I had a low lying area and the areas with blinds all got this stuff. After it gets wet and driven on its like concrete. My interest in the crusher run or ungraded is to now spread over the top of that for the grouse and turkeys. Dave