Putting in a gravel driveway

[paulsharvey]

Yes, arch pipes are commonly used in larger drainage systems or culverts, and they are designed for areas requiring high flow capacity while minimizing structural height. You’re right that elliptical pipes come in both corrugated metal and concrete, and they are often used in applications where vertical space is limited but you still need to maintain flow capacity. The choice between corrugated metal or concrete typically depends on the load requirements and environmental factors, such as water conditions or durability needs. Concrete tends to be more durable, while corrugated metal is often chosen for cost-effectiveness and ease of installation.

We avoid CMP in a salt water environment, because they often don't last the spec'd life span of 25 years for driveways and minor connecting roads. In the right environment, they will last 50 years.

It's not just salt; tanic acid, or wrong soil chemistry will also destroy them early.

 

[JRG1223]

I am planning a gravel driveway for a new build and have a few questions since I've never had a gravel driveway before. I have started on some preliminary work which I think is necessary. so far I've scraped all the organic materials from the entire driveway. In some places I am as much as 12 inches below grade on one side. The driveway itself is roughly at the top of a slope. Here are my questions going forward. Note that I am in New England. Soil tends to be sandy or sandy loam as you get below the pure organics.

1. I am assuming that the finished driveway needs to be above grade and crowned so water rolls off either side. Is that correct?
2. Because there is a small slope is there something I need to do on the high side for water management?
3. There is an area of the driveway that 5-7 ft lower than the rest of the driveway. I want to bring this up to level. I was going to add some boards attached to some rebar on both sides and fill in lifts compacting in between. What is the best material to fill with?
4. I've seen gravel driveways done a number of ways. I am debating about either going with various sizes of rock and then gravel to build the foundation for the driveway or using 6" geocell. Geocell is not particularly cheap but seems like it would give the driveway a more stable foundation. Which way is the best to go?

Using a Kioti DK6010 SE to get this done.

On Sandy soil place 80 Lb bag of Portland every 2 SF tiller attachment on tractor ,till Portland in add water and roll it with roller or just use your pickup to roll it. This will stabilize the existing soil prior to placing gravel.

 

[RayIN]

My driveway is 100' long, with one side at the bottom of a 12% earthen grade(yard)
I was very fortunate to have a FIL who ran dump trucks.
I borrowed his old 56 Ford dump truck, then negotiated with a local stone mill to haul away scrap slab limestone 6'x6'x4" thick.
That became the base of my driveway for about 40'. Then I hauled and spread #2 crushed stone, covered that with #53 about 4' thick, then 2" of #7 crushed stone.
That was in 1968; my driveway only requires more #7 stone about once every 5-6 years today.
The stone hauler I use now has a 12T dump truck, he's never had a problem with my driveway giving, regardless of weather.