rickmacheske
Gold Member
Perfect time to get a hydraulic top link 
Pat's Easy Change Real World Test& 1 question
- Thread starter GregH
- Start date
- Views: 9318
patrick_g
Elite Member
I am still hopeful that life is going to get a lot easier BUT...
I have hydraulic TNT NOT a mechanically adjusted top link. I had to fab an extension just to be able to get the top link to reach. Unfortunately Mod 1 Rev 0 of my DIY extension was pretty darned poor in use. It is a simple extension with two pieces of steel drilled to fit top link pins with the pairs of holes 4 inches apart on centers. It is hooked to the implement by using two pins instead of one, like a giant bicycle chain link. ONe pin goes to the implement and the other to the eye in the top link.
In tension it is great but you can't use it to push. The box blade is virtually useless since the top link doesn't transmit force outward with the flexi flyer extension. I need a RIGID extension and wonder if anyone has already built one. I was thinking of building a rectangular boot to envelope the "eye" in the end of the hydraulic ram. This would be to keep the extension lined up with the hydraulic extension force and not let the extension fold up.
I know the Easy Change is going to be a real time saver as relates to changing implements back and forth but to actually use all the implements to good effect requires a different extension. Maybe I need to consider making the extension to fit the other end of the ram where it connects to the tractor instead of to the implement.
Maybe I need to build an extension that extends the mount on the tractor that accepts the hydraulic ram (or conventional top link.) It has 3 sets of holes for positioning the top link at various heights. I could build an adapter that fastens to those holes, offers similar holes to the ram, and extends the location of the holes about 4 inches back of the original holes.
I'm doing this on a Kubota Grand L-4610HSTC
Pat
I have hydraulic TNT NOT a mechanically adjusted top link. I had to fab an extension just to be able to get the top link to reach. Unfortunately Mod 1 Rev 0 of my DIY extension was pretty darned poor in use. It is a simple extension with two pieces of steel drilled to fit top link pins with the pairs of holes 4 inches apart on centers. It is hooked to the implement by using two pins instead of one, like a giant bicycle chain link. ONe pin goes to the implement and the other to the eye in the top link.
In tension it is great but you can't use it to push. The box blade is virtually useless since the top link doesn't transmit force outward with the flexi flyer extension. I need a RIGID extension and wonder if anyone has already built one. I was thinking of building a rectangular boot to envelope the "eye" in the end of the hydraulic ram. This would be to keep the extension lined up with the hydraulic extension force and not let the extension fold up.
I know the Easy Change is going to be a real time saver as relates to changing implements back and forth but to actually use all the implements to good effect requires a different extension. Maybe I need to consider making the extension to fit the other end of the ram where it connects to the tractor instead of to the implement.
Maybe I need to build an extension that extends the mount on the tractor that accepts the hydraulic ram (or conventional top link.) It has 3 sets of holes for positioning the top link at various heights. I could build an adapter that fastens to those holes, offers similar holes to the ram, and extends the location of the holes about 4 inches back of the original holes.
I'm doing this on a Kubota Grand L-4610HSTC
Pat
3RRL
Super Member
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2005
- Messages
- 6,931
- Tractor
- 55HP 4WD KAMA 554 and 4 x 4 Jinma 284
Pat,
Not sure what your hydraulic top link looks like where it fastens to your tractor, but if it is like mine, you could cut off the swivel end there and weld a beefy 4" extension (or whatever length) in between. That way your hyd top link works with Pat's and all your implements and your haven't changed the tractor. Pat's is definitely worth getting man.
Not sure what your hydraulic top link looks like where it fastens to your tractor, but if it is like mine, you could cut off the swivel end there and weld a beefy 4" extension (or whatever length) in between. That way your hyd top link works with Pat's and all your implements and your haven't changed the tractor. Pat's is definitely worth getting man.
kenmac
Super Member
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2005
- Messages
- 9,824
- Location
- The Heart of Dixie
- Tractor
- McCormick CX105 Kubota MX 5100 HST, Kubota ZD1021, Kawsaki Mule 4010 trans 4x4
Does the pats quick hitch work better than the Harbor Frieght brand ?? I had a friend order the one from H.F. Said he couldn't get everything to line up correctly to get the system to work .
rickmacheske
Gold Member
One of the great things about Pat's system is that it is adjustable. That shouldn't be a problem.
patrick_g
Elite Member
The HF unit as well as the one sold at some of the ag stores is entirely different from Pat's Easy Change. Pat's attaches to the ends of the lower arms as TWO SEPARATE pieces not a frame thing like Atwoods, HF, and others.
It was quicker and easier to fab the adapter that I did because I was like a kid on Christmas morning when UPS delivered. I wanted to DO IT NOW! My first adapter is not suitable for the box blade and will be replaced by a better design.
The suggestion given here is a good one but I choose not to modify the hydraulic cylinder assy. I will make an extension to the mount on the tractor to get the 4 inches and the unmodified hydraulic cylinder will work just fine. My way is a tad more work (maybe) but it leaves everything able to easily return to stock configuration.
Oh, a value judgment... Pat's Easy Change is far superior to the HF unit.
Pat
It was quicker and easier to fab the adapter that I did because I was like a kid on Christmas morning when UPS delivered. I wanted to DO IT NOW! My first adapter is not suitable for the box blade and will be replaced by a better design.
The suggestion given here is a good one but I choose not to modify the hydraulic cylinder assy. I will make an extension to the mount on the tractor to get the 4 inches and the unmodified hydraulic cylinder will work just fine. My way is a tad more work (maybe) but it leaves everything able to easily return to stock configuration.
Oh, a value judgment... Pat's Easy Change is far superior to the HF unit.
Pat
AlanB
Elite Member
And in the FWIW, you can use the Pats with a PHD as well, which is very important too us.
patrick_g
Elite Member
AlanB said:
Alan, you just put a smile on the front side of my head! I hadn't considered the PHD. I have to use the TNT to tilt my PHD which raises the tip of the auger a bit, otherwise it hits some of the time if anything sticks up more than a gnats eyebrow during transit. It isn't much but with the 4 inch extension to the arms the PHD will raise just a little more and clear better. This will make maneuvering around while placing holes some easier.
Oh, I'm indefinitely tabling the redesign of the 4 inch extension to my hydraulic top link pending the outcome of yet another (and more likely to succeed) test. The nice folks at Greenwell MFG, manufacturers of Pat's Easy Change are sending me an extension which is of the design they did for a Kubota dealer. I'm going to give that a whorl and see it it meets my needs. I'm more than just cautiously optimistic that it will be a good thing since they seem to really know what they are doing in fabrication.
Any wanabe welders out there? If you get a chance to take a look at a Pat's Easy Change you will be seeing some of the prettiest welds around.
Disclaimer: Although I am Patrick G. I am not THE Pat of Pat's Easy Change and am not affiliated with Greenwell MFG (I couldn't be THAT lucky) and have never been to their facility nor met any of the folks in person. They are not paying me to shill for them. I'm just calling a good thing, a GOOD THING when I see it. If the beautiful welds fall apart from my typically abusive use I'd report that too, honestly.
I don't think there is much chance for a failure on the unit till it gets lots of time on it and then the first things to go would probably be an easily replaced spring (probably several years down the road.) Everything made of steel is subject to rust but the main parts are so HD they will last indefinitely with any care at all.
Pat
