Penetrating fluid

[Soundguy]

pin on the upper lift arms where they connect to the lift links? or?

 

[PROFarms]

The upper pins. But also on one of the arms it is stuck on the ball at the back where the lower arm attaches to the tractor.

 

[PROFarms]

They had some large nuts at work, holding up some equipment suspended on about a 2" threaded rod. Kroil is the favorite at work but they ended up putting heat on the nut and hitting it with beeswax and it worked.

When you say about beeswax what do you mean by that? sorry, complete idiot here, never had to do this seriously before!

 

[Soundguy]

Wax is a good lube, or can be. Heat a joint and apply wax.. It melts, and wicks into cracks, then when cool, and you are disassembling, the wax acts like a lube

 

[caver]

yep what Soundguy said.

 

[PROFarms]

These are the pins I'm trying to remove. Also there's the sidelink adjuster is stuck which I'm trying to free up and getting the lower arm off if the tractor

 

[chim]

A couple guys at work were having trouble getting a similar thing apart. I grabbed an air chisel and a pointed bit. Placing the point on the end of the pin (and making sure it didn't slip off) hit the trigger and in less than a minute the pin came out. I used the pointed chisel in the center of the pin to avoid peening the end of the pin and making it mushroom/expand.

I have also used ATF & acetone. It worked very well on the bolts holding the muffler on the 1210. It was a rusty mess and I applied the mix multiple times over a period of days before cranking on the bolts. I was surprised it worked because the mix separated almost immediately after shaking the mixture.

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

Use more heat as skyhook says - not on the pin but on the part the pin goes thru. O/A is best but if you only have propane, get the yellow bottle -it burns hotter.

I like chim's idea of the air chisel. I've done that myself on some suspension bolts of my wife's car.

I'd try your press idea again after heating it as much as you can. Get a big C clamp (preferably one with lifetime warranty) and a socket that fits loosely over the head of the bolt and crank away. You can also heat, quench with water and then reheat. The shock from cooling van help it to break free.

There's a point when penetrating oil won't help and it sounds like you are there

 

[woodchipper]

Could that bolt on the upper lift arm have a serrated collet, therefore being press fit?? Same way for a car hub...
As for the ATF/Acetone mix, it sounds very good, but I would be real carefull about any paint job around the splashing area. Both products could strip paint.

Having a compressor and air chisel is something mechanics use for many "dislodging" operations. Good pointer!

 

[Soundguy]

the pin can slip out on some and seize in others.

the air hammer tip is a good one.

another one is to take a hex nut, a large one.. with an ID just smaller than the head of the pin, weld it to the head of the pinfromt he inside ID of the nut. now put an impact wrench on it. once you get it to spin, it's the beginning of the end.

then you can cut the pin off and grind it back so it looks like you never welded on it.

lastly, if it just won't go. usually there is enough side clearance between the yoke to get a sawsall or hacksaw blade in and cut the pin on either side, then grind the head and but off then just drive the slugs out, clean up the holes.

take the center knuckle to your vice where you can get at it better. i have heated them cherry red then set them in a coffee can of diesel and left them there a day, and then you come back and they drift out with a hand punch and drilling hammer.

for these things.. as much of it depends on how you hold your mouth as anything.

 

[kevincook]

I haven't had the greatest luck with either propane or Mapp gas when it comes to getting things that are really stuck a part. Acetylene works much better.

This is a inexpensive way to do it also. Air Impact Hammer Kit

4 Piece Short Air Chisel Set

 

[DFB]

Obviously there plenty of options to getting something to come apart quickly heat, impact tools, but good ol' penetrating fluid alone will only work if you give it enough time to do its job. Sometimes you apply penetrating fluid and ten minutes later something pops loose but not usually. :laughing:

I had a the PTO selector handle on my tractor freeze solid to the shaft it rotated on. It hadn't been moved out of the only position I use it in for probably more than a dozen years. Good thing for me it was a linkage assembly and not just direct into the case. I removed the part and put it in a vise it and took a good week of soaking it and hammer tapping before it started moving again. Another time I had broken off the brake bleeder screw froze stuck in my old Harley brake caliper. Again gave about a weeks worh of applying PF daily then drove in a splined extractor and it turned out like nothing.

The very first time I ever saw KROIL being used was in an old Easyrider magazine article way back in late 70's. They profiled how a fellow had an old (then) knucklehead motor that the rocker arms were seized solid to shaft, Applying Kroil over time, letting it soak in and using light taps with a hammer the pieces eventually separated with ease. I will never forget that!

Of course there's always been the BFH too!

 

[Moves]

x3 (? I lost track) on the PB Blaster and that WD is only good for water displacement (altho everyone seems think it's a lube)

 

[jel1988]

Heat is what you need! If it glows cherry it's ready, hit it with a big hammer or an air chisel. If at first you don't succeed, try
try, again!!!

 

[jel1988]

Heat is what you need! If it glows cherry it's ready, hit it with a big hammer or an air chisel. If at first you don't succeed, try
try, again!!!

 

[pmsmechanic]

I like the big socket and c-clamp idea. I would do that and within about 15 minutes I would have those pins out. Well maybe I'd better not crow too much.

I would use the c-clamp and socket idea and then take a medium sized hammer and start hitting the end of the lift arm where the pins go through. I would apply a penetrating fluid or wax and then start hitting each side of the arm with a hammer. Hit directly in the end in line with the arm. You don't need to beat it as hard as you can you just want to hit it hard enough to send a shock through the arm. After about three or four hits then switch and hit the other side of the arm. After doing this a few times tighten up the c-clamp some more. Repeat until the pin moves. If you want to leave it sit for a day you might get a pleasant surprise and find that the pin has moved without you doing anything. Heat along with the c-clamp and hammer will probably work even better

 

[Soundguy]

x3 (? I lost track) on the PB Blaster and that WD is only good for water displacement (altho everyone seems think it's a lube)

WD makes a penetrant now....

 

[polkwrangler]

3in1 oil works great i ...i use pb blaster on rusted up bolts eventually will work them lose

 

[drizler]

ATF and Acetone mixed about 50 50 works as good as anything. Just put in a spray bottle and spray it on preferably much earlier like a week repeating every day. Save that old ATF and you will never have to buy penetrating oil again. Acetone is 17 a gallon or so so it's cheap and effective. I have used it for years with no problems. If you let some drift into your eyes you will say ouchie but not much more and I have yet to have any serious fire issues. Just don't let it build up in a contained place and hit with torch ect. Just wipe off and do your thing.
On the torch thing don't heat and beat:thumbdown:. Let it cool down and I mean cool down fairly cold. Go get a coffee grab a beer whatever then do it again bringing it to cherry then wait till cool and pound. Mechanics do it quick all the time but it works better if you actually do it right and take your time.
The air chisel thing I just learned from a guy a couple years ago. It works way crazy considering how little power it has but let me assure you it';s my Rust Belt go to along with the torch. Better yet use them alternating. Put the oil on there after it heats and cools and just wail on it with the flat cut off remains of an old air chisel bit. Chinese junk works great. Just keep hammering while you spray the juice on the item. All that hammering really loosens the rust and lets the penetrating oil get right in there. Do it use it you'll be amazed.
I helped a guy take the pivot pin out of his JD backhoe a while back. It had a 2" pin horizontal and in there since 85. He's the one who showed me this and I was dazzled how well it worked. :dance1: It did take an hour but all we had was a cheap HF air chisel , sledge, rosebud and some penetrating oil. You can see the cracks start to open up and the oil start to go in. Absolutely amazing.