Posthole Digger PHD Operation Suggestions

[thavil]

I have a Kubota BX24 and finally attached my Leinbach 7200JR post hole digger. The PHD was purchased with a 9" auger but the auger doesn't have a good bit at the end to start the digging process. The cutting edges aren't very well made either. I went to TSC and bought a 12" auger made by FIMCO. The auger is heavier, more flights and the bit/cutting edges are better made.

My issue is that now that I have a better auger, I keep screwing myself into the ground instead of digging the hole. I keep the rpm's very low (just above idle) but then I can't use the 3ph to pick the auger backup before it screws itself to deeply. I buried it so well the other night that I had to move the tractor back and forth to loosen the auger. I know this isn't best practice, since I am causing unnecessary strain on the PTO shaft.

Any suggestions are welcomed before I really get my auger stuck and have to bury it in place.

 

[Sherweld]

I used to (back in the day) pull it out of the hole frequently to spin the dirt off. After a few holes you develop a sense of when "it's time to clear" (just before it gets stuck)

For those times of mis-calculation (or getting under a tree root) carry a pipe wrench to shut down and back the auger out.

Sherweld

 

[SnowRidge]

Buy a bigger tractor.

Sorry, couldn't resist.

 

[thavil]

Thanks for the suggestions Sherweld. I had the sense of "it's time to clear" with the 9" auger but the 12" digs so fast, I haven't developed that yet. I attempted to use a pipe wrench on the 12" auger but it was buried to deep. I actually popped two lower ribs attempting to get it out, so this is when I used the back and forth method to free the auger.

 

[thavil]

Buy a bigger tractor.

Sorry, couldn't resist.

I knew that was coming!! I wish I had one but the little BX24 does so many good things for me on my small farm, except for this project, I really don't have a use for a larger tractor.

 

[tony123]

The first few times I used one, I was pretty good at just "screwing into the ground". I now have a feel for it, and it hasn't happened again. Ease the 3pt down slowly....inches at a time, and clear it back out every 10" or so. You've only got to dig the bit out once to learn your lesson!

 

[zzvyb6]

1st, make sure the cutting knives are attached properly to the auger. I see a lot of users who don't have them on right. Yes there is a wrong way. 2nd, if it digs in too much for you, set the draft height so that it only goes down 6 inches at a time. I run the rpm way up so that the diggings come flying out of the hole. If you can't pull it up, keep screwing it in. It may have found the edge of a rock and won't release easily. Let it go as far as it can, eventually the rock, clay, bones, steel or whatever else you're digging into will pop out of the hole, too. 3rd, when the hole is fully dug, stop the auger and pull it out gently. The loose dirt will stay in the flighting and give you a clean hole to work with.

 

[pitt_md]

1st, make sure the cutting knives are attached properly to the auger. I see a lot of users who don't have them on right. Yes there is a wrong way. 2nd, if it digs in too much for you, set the draft height so that it only goes down 6 inches at a time. I run the rpm way up so that the diggings come flying out of the hole. If you can't pull it up, keep screwing it in. It may have found the edge of a rock and won't release easily. Let it go as far as it can, eventually the rock, clay, bones, steel or whatever else you're digging into will pop out of the hole, too. 3rd, when the hole is fully dug, stop the auger and pull it out gently. The loose dirt will stay in the flighting and give you a clean hole to work with.

ZZ beat me to it. Once it hits bottom the dirt comes out. Also I don't understand why you don't just use the 3pt depth control to let it go down a little at a time.

 

[thavil]

Thanks tony123, zzvyb6 and pitt_md. All three of you just informed me what I must be doing wrong. I must be lowering my 3pt arms too much by holding down on the 3pt control lever too long. I do have the control set to lower very slowly but maybe I need to adjust the lowering speed even more. Hopefully with this small tractor that there is a bottom and it doesn't just keep screwing into the ground and lift my FEL up in the air!!

 

[bird1968]

I also had the same issues.... so I wanted a reverse on the PHD..... Hydraulic & $ ...fixes everything.

 

[tony123]

I'm going to respectfully disagree with the comments to let it "hit bottom" and then it will clear. I've done that a few times, and it never cleared. I ended up having to dig it out with a shovel. Maybe it's my heavy clay soil. I suppose in something loose and sandy I would've had the power.

 

[edkinct]

well I just drilled about 50 holes in the last week, and the first one drilled right in, had to shovel it out, then I learned to lower the auger a few inches at a time, and I usually let it spin for a few seconds than raise it and lower some more and repeat until the hole is done.
As my bad luck always has it, I marked out my post spacing and of course one landed right in the middle of a stump we had chipped, but I did not notice because of the ground cover, started drilling and boy did the auger get stuck, right in the middle of the stump remains, had the getout the chainsaw, and of course at that point I am hitting everything with the saw "auger, dirt, rocks" lots of expletives later and it was free.

 

[KHNewman]

I have the Leinbach on my B7610 and I had the same problem at first. I found that the problem with the 12" is as much about the weight of the soil on the flights as it is flights digging in. The PHD is heavy and pretty far back from the lift arms so when you add up the weight of the 12" auger, PHD and then completely pack 36" of flights with clay the weight is too much for the 3PH to lift out with the additional side force the hole is placing on the flights.

I agree with the other posters that clearing the flights every few inches is critical...I would not go more then 6" at a time with a tractor that size using a 12" auger or you will stick it every time. Dig a little, stop the auger, lift the auger out and give it a spin to clear the flights and then go again. The other trick is to actually hold back using the lift arms to it does not get a chance to take too much bite and screw itself in. Also make sure to keep your foot on the clutch so you can stop the auger FAST if you feel it sucking the tractor down and then pull up on the 3PH. Sometimes I use the clutch to feather the rotation a few shots at a time to contol the amount of bite.

One tip for getting the auger bit out if it is really stuck is to disconnect the auger from the PHD, turn the tractor around and use the FEL. I bought a box of 100 extra bolts so I take a spare bolt and put it back into the holes that connect the bit to the power head but I first put it through a link of a 5' piece of 3/8 G70 Chain and hook the other end to my bucket hook. Since you can use the bucket curl and you can position the chain so the auger is right over the buckets pivot point you can use the maximum breakout force of the tractor which has WAY more force then trying to lift the auger out witht the PHD which is 4' back from the 3PH lift arms. This trick works for me 90% of the time and I can pop the auger out very quickly without breaking my back digging it out by hand.

Hope this helps...

Kevin

 

[johnk]

I have augured over 250 holes and when i first started i buried the auger may times. Patience is a virtue and the trick is to go just above idle and go easy on the lowering of the 3 pt. Clear often and you will get a lot of holes done and have a smile on your face..

 

[ultrarunner]

I also had the same issues.... so I wanted a reverse on the PHD..... Hydraulic & $ ...fixes everything.

How much $ are we talkin?

 

[PA hayseed]

Any suggestions are welcomed before I really get my auger stuck and have to bury it in place.

Even dedicated drilling platforms (hydraulic drilling rigs) don't just drop the auger into the ground and let it spin til it hits bottom. They kinda start a hole, little bit down, spin it out, then go further until the next auger needs attached. This is different than air rotary rigs, but the principle is the same. Go down a little, check to make sure your straight (very important), spin it out, then drop it back down. If you ever have a helper, they can tilt a shovel on the auger and it will clear the dirt off it as it starts coming up. Be careful, cause if you put the shovel on the wrong way, well, buy a new shovel and maybe a hand.

I can't emphasize enough to anyone using a PHD, no matter what size it is, respect the torque. Ever seen someone get caught on an auger?

Other people will tell you something different, but I don't advise moving the tractor while the auger is spinning in the ground. Most manufacturer's will likely discourage it, and you can possibly damage your PHD, tractor, or yourself.

One other thing may help you, start your hole off with a hand held PHD. Don't go deep, just to start your hole so the auger doesn't bounce around or dig away. If you hit a hard hole, put some water in it and come back the next day. We can't do that where I live from about November to March due to freezing.

 

[kthompson]

I also had the same issues.... so I wanted a reverse on the PHD..... Hydraulic & $ ...fixes everything.

Did you add the hyd motor to a PTO digger or was this the way it was made?

 

[pitt_md]

I'm going to respectfully disagree with the comments to let it "hit bottom" and then it will clear. I've done that a few times, and it never cleared. I ended up having to dig it out with a shovel. Maybe it's my heavy clay soil. I suppose in something loose and sandy I would've had the power.

did you bust a shear pin when it hit bottom?

 

[bird1968]

How much $ are we talkin?

Let see.... The PTO pump was needed 22GPM 2 stage $250
Hyd motor added $300
The Hyd valve $120
The Hyd hose & fitting $120

Expensive, but the sytem also all works for the wood spliter

 

[thavil]

Thanks again to the additional posts on this topic. I will be attempting to use what everyone has said tomorrow and hopefully have a good day.

KHNewman - You brought up many good points and tips but unfortunately I can't use the tip about having my foot on the clutch. The BX24 doesn't have a clutch, it only has the PTO control lever. I turn my head to the right to watch the auger but the PTO control lever is on the left hand side. By the time I realize I need to shut the PTO off, I have to turn my head and reach for the lever. I can operate the 3ph lever (on the right side) while turned to the right but it takes some effort to shut down the PTO. Maybe I need to fabricate a longer control arm for the PTO?