Photo Diary of 1/2 acre pond construction

Junkman · Oct 14, 2003

Re: The rains are coming

If you decide to run electric, then put it in conduit..... 1 1/2" conduit is very inexpensive and if you ever have to replace the wire, it will be a simple matter of pulling the old out an pulling the new in... it cost about 30 cents a foot around here...

have_blue · Oct 14, 2003

(
This pond is constructed outside of Rochester NY. I cannot say enough nice things about the gentleman who worked on the pond. )

Hi Larry,

I'm building a 1.5 acre pond as we speak. (see early picture) I work on it just about every day it isn't wet. When it rains, it sets me back a day to pump it out and 3-4 days to dry out enough to bring in equipment. I built a 1/4 mile long, 10 Ft. wide, 18" high levee to keep it from silting up, which I seeded and now must mow. I will build a large gravel box filter to filter all water running into it. I hope to be catching bluegill and bass in 2-3 years. Most serious digging will be done by city, county, and contractors that dig my pond in exchange for the dirt.

Say...need some dirt? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Larry_Van_Horn · Oct 15, 2003

Re: Running Electric

I definately want to run electric down there, and to my barn which I will construct in the next few months. I was definately going to lay a conduit.

here is my question. I will need an electrician to hook up to the service in my house. Does the electrician have to pull the wire through the conduit, or can I buy the wire and pull it through so that when he arrives it is already done.

I am planning on running conduit and wire to my barn first. This is approximately 250 ft from the house and I want say 100 amp service there. I was then going to run from the Barn to the pond. What gauge wire should I pull through?
Thanks,
Larry

Junkman · Oct 15, 2003

Re: Running Electric

In CT I was able to do the entire job myself, including the permits which were required for the basic service upgrade from to the pole to the house. Check your state regulations and determine if you can do it also. I put the conduit in the ground and installed a 1/4" poly pull rope into it..... when the electric company came, they pulled the wire from the pole to the house. I had all the rest of the work done from the house to the meter box by that time. I can't see any reason why you couldn't pull the wire itself, if code doesn't allow you to make the connections... I suggest that you consult locally to see what size wire you will need for the distance and amperage. I prefer to use copper whenever possible, but it is costly. You will need fused disconnect at the house where the wire goes underground and you can get a rain tight 100 amp disconnect for about $125 for this purpose. You will also need marker tape to put over the top of the conduit to warn future people that dig in the area of the buried line... If you look for electrical supplies on e Bay, you can save a lot of money. I found my electrical panels new on e bay for less than I could get them locally and bought the breakers there also. I use Square D brand and they are expensive.....

EddieWalker · Oct 15, 2003

Re: Running Electric

Pulling wire through conduit gets harder the smaller the diameter the pipe. And it really gets hard once the pipe is in the ground.

I dig my trench, lay out the wire along side the trench and slide the pipe over the pipe before putting it in the trench. I tried pulling wire through buried pipe once with a winch and never again!

An engineer from Milbank told me you don't need anything fancy for conduit. I've seen people use grey schedule 80 for undergrund conduit, when drain pipe works better and cheaper. Grey pipe is for above ground use. Anything to keep the gophers and moisture away is all you need when burying it.

Code varies, but most people just assume that they have to use the most expensive pipe. Not true. I get 4 inch Drain pipe with fittings for under .30 cents a foot.

Good Luck

Junkman · Oct 15, 2003

Re: Running Electric

I too have pulled wire through the pipe and I agree that it can be a headache, but to make it easier, I use the larger size pipe in relationship to the wire. I also agree that you can use almost any PVC pipe, but after having a problem with water infiltration on a 4" PVC solid thin wall pipe, I now go for the better quality Grey pipe. The cost difference is so little, it isn't worth it for me to have the problem of digging it up and replacing it. I always use the cleaner and glue and allow about 1/2 hour for it to totally dry.... I have put together long lengths above ground and then just drop it into the trench later. To get the pull cord through each length, I tie a 1/2" box wrench to the cord and drop it into the 10 foot length prior to gluing.

Inspector507 · Oct 15, 2003

Re: Running Electric

Drain pipe works, but does it meet code?? NO
Use what is "listed" for your application. Schedule 40 PVC (grey) is perfect for underground. Codes may vary, but if a code is in force in his area, drain pipe would not be approved to use. I cannot believe the MIS-information running abundant on some of these boards /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

ges · Oct 15, 2003

Re: Running Electric

Right again Inspector..! In fact, in our area the power company adds that they require sch. 80 gray sweeps and first 5' up pole and at meter trim.
Also if pipe is sized right for the wire and not too many bends, glue pipe together,lay in ditch, use vacuum cleaner to suck string, tie string to rope,pull rope,pull wire. Works great.

Take care George

have_blue · Oct 16, 2003

Re: Running Electric

( I definately want to run electric down there, and to my barn which I will construct in the next few months. I was definately going to lay a conduit. )

All you need is 12 GA wire except for your long run. That really throws a kink into things. You'll probably need 8 GA for that long run.

I have no electric service at all on my land, and the cost of installing the service, poles, panels, and wiring was very expensive. I took the cheap way out and bought a solar panel, a large battery, and an inverter. Couldn't be happier. Cost was about 1/3 of service, no monthly notes. It runs my honking big shop vac, disk grinder, air compressor, battery charger for my rechargable drill and saws, lights, diesel pump, etc.

Inspector507 · Oct 16, 2003

Re: Running Electric

8 Gauge for a 100 Amp service?? He wants to run more than one light I'd presume.
#8 is good for 40-50 amps depending on the circumstance. No way will #8 survive very long at 100 Amps. That magic smoke will be released in no time.