photos of basement waterproofing with bx - questions and comments?

[ampsucker]

i had actually thought about that a little bit. my logic is, if the pipe freezes, most likely the water will be frozen as well, so it won't be leaking in the basement. the worst case is if the outlet freezes and dams up where it gets shallow but the heat from the house and the ground keeps the water liquid around the foundation. i'm hoping that it will drain enough away and any water that falls on the surface (snow/ice/freezing rain) will not penetrate the frozen ground until the pipe thaws.

we have several other shallow drains (two buildings have shallow gutter downspout drains and we have a grey water drain on the shop building) and have not had a problem with freezing blocking the water. of course, we are zone 6/7 but we do get down to near zero every winter. i think if you are moving warm water, you won't have a significant freezing problem.

i suppose in the exteme, you could wrap your exit pipe with heat tape anywhere it rises above the frost line.

or use a pit and pump method instead of draining to daylight.

most full basements if done properly use an internal drain with sump so the external pipe is just extra insurance.

maybe someone with more "northern" experience will chime in?

amp

 

[ampsucker]

just realized i never posted a pic of the white clean rock around the pipe. it is there in the one photo, but the filter fabric covers it up. since this is probably very important, i didn't want someone to forget this step and not do it.

i laid the pipe in the hole and connected it all up being sure it was down deep enough to be below the floor - holes on the bottom of the pipe, so should get drainage at least four inches before level reaches the floor.

then shoveled in the rock being sure to get it all around the pipe. then, raised the pipe up and jiggled it so the rock would flow under and around it and used the white gravel to get my final level so the pipe sloped gradually towards the drain. (about 1 inch over the entire run to the T where the drain connected.)

the actual drain pipe has much more slope to it, about an inch per 10 foot section, but i was limited by the foundation being pretty much level so i had to keep the actually perf pipe pretty much level but did want it to have a bit of slope to keep things flowing. i also had to deal with the limestone shelf rock the original builders blasted away to pour the foundation. i didn't have the desire to start chiseling into that stuff, so couldn't get any more slope than that shelf would allow. i think it's going to be ok. you have to work with what you have.

i was going to post a photo of the huge pile of rocks i had to pull out of the spoils pile before i back filled but don't have a pic of it handy and am back in kansas now.

also can't believe nobody asked me about our old ford 800 tractor. i conspicuously left it in the shot as a teaser sure that someone would at least give me some grief about using it instead of the BX to level the driveway!

guess you guys just aren't having it....

amp

 

[Barkri12]

Basement waterproofing isn't something most of us know how to do ourselves.

It's something we like to hire experts to do. And with good reason.

Basements might seem like places that are naturally supposed to be dark and dank - after all, they're underground, right? But basement moisture is an insidious menace which can have a slow but steady effect on the integrity of your foundation and the air quality of your home as a whole. To keep your basement as dry as possible, you'll need to hire a good basement waterproofing contractor.

A basement waterproofing contractor, particularly one with years of experience, will have no trouble determining the cause of a wet basement. He can spot the telltale signs of leakage or cracking, and he knows where black mold is most likely to grow. What's more, a quality basement waterproofing contractor will be able to advise the best course of action to fix your leaky basement.

 

[Dmace]

Once again, another business or dealer signing up here and bringing back old threads to promote their own products/services. This thread is almost a year old and you have no reason to post here besides promoting your business. That is pathetic...

 

[davitk]

Once again, another business or dealer signing up here and bringing back old threads to promote their own products/services. This thread is almost a year old and you have no reason to post here besides promoting your business. That is pathetic...

Agreed.

Something I picked up recently, living in a 100 year old home with a field stone basement, "experts" say not to dig next to the walls as the soil/stone mix has come to a sort of equilibrium over the decades and removing part of thay mix could cause problems. Can't verify the accuracy of this claim but I am now less willing to try......

 

[Flatheadyoungin]

i waterproofed my own basement.......

little searching on the internet, ordering the same stuff the "pros" use and ta dah!, i'm a basement waterproofing psychopath!

 

[radioman]

i waterproofed my own basement.......

little searching on the internet, ordering the same stuff the "pros" use and ta dah!, i'm a basement waterproofing psychopath!

I couldn't help but grin ear to ear from your comment. So whats the "stuff pro's use ?

 

[Flatheadyoungin]

all joking aside...it works great.......my neighbor, before he passed, paid 3500 to have some installed......in an area half as big as mine...

i think my total expense for installation was 1200...

Basement Waterproofing | DIY Online Store

i don't own any stock in this company......

 

[JB4310]

I'm a waterproofing contractor, never noticed this thread when it was new, I might of offered some compliments to OP.

But as far as that glue on track goes that's in flatheadyoungin's link, It would only have limited applications where it would be helpful.

Everything we do involves lowering the static water level to some point below the floor surface, aprx. 8 inches. The only problem you could even hope to control with that glue on track would be seepage down the wall, even then it would have to be a fairly short distance to the exit point.

I've seen that system applied where there was the typical cove joint leak (where floor and wall meet) and was a complete failure, because you are forcing/allowing the water level to reach the surface of the floor before it can start flowing laterally to an exit drain or pump. Once the water level is at the floor surface inside the track it's also at the floor's surface across the entire floor via cracks and any other breach in the floor.

There's not many exceptions to the rules regarding the laws of physics that govern hydrostatics. flatheadyoungin may of had a good experience with that concept, but I would never recommend it.

This is a job I did on Monday, the old fashioned way

JB.

 

[RayCo]

This is a fascinating thread. This is one heck of a project, and you sure are one heck of a good son.