TomSeller
Super Member
Just needs Frey paint. Nice.
Picked up a 1970 GMC C3500 dump truck that needs some TLC
- Thread starter pclausen
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Just needs Frey paint. Nice.
OP
pclausen
Veteran Member
I went ahead and pulled the rear wheels off, and 3 of them were of the split rim design, the 4th one had been replaced with later single piece vintage on at some point. 2 of them would not hold air, and given the general condition of them, I picked up 2 more from the junk yard.
Here are the 3 wheels as I headed out this morning in search of a place that would touch these split rim wheels.
Close up showing the condition of them.
I had to go to 3 places before I finally found someone that would touch these old rims. They got them swapped over and I now have 4 healthy rims with tires on them and no tubes.
Each side had these plates on them with the original wheels. Should I use them again or leave them off?
Here' s a shot of those aluminum spacers that are installed on both sides. I guess the drums on the new axle did not allow the original wheels to clear?
I got a stuck caliber on the left rear. I'm wondering if I have to pull the axle to pull the drum off on this axle?
Here are the 3 wheels as I headed out this morning in search of a place that would touch these split rim wheels.
Close up showing the condition of them.
I had to go to 3 places before I finally found someone that would touch these old rims. They got them swapped over and I now have 4 healthy rims with tires on them and no tubes.
Each side had these plates on them with the original wheels. Should I use them again or leave them off?
Here' s a shot of those aluminum spacers that are installed on both sides. I guess the drums on the new axle did not allow the original wheels to clear?
I got a stuck caliber on the left rear. I'm wondering if I have to pull the axle to pull the drum off on this axle?
JJZ 109
Veteran Member
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- Kubota BX2380/LA344 loader/60" MMM, Bobcat S185 skid steer, JD X394 4 wheel steer mower
I've only had rear tires off of my '97 F Super Duty (450) once. Instead of a plate like that, I think that one rim and holes in it and the other had nubs on it like your plate does. I'm curious myself of the purpose.
If you were to reuse them (providing your newer wheels would accept them), I think I'd touch them up with a wire wheel and slap a little anti seize compound on them.
If you were to reuse them (providing your newer wheels would accept them), I think I'd touch them up with a wire wheel and slap a little anti seize compound on them.
Stimw
Elite Member
Those are drum brakes and you need to remove the axle, then the two hub retaining nuts. It is a "Free Floating Axle" like on big truck rear ends.
I can't believe the crybabies would not remove the tires for you!! Once you let the air out of a split rim it can't hurt you.
I've mounted and dis-mounted a bunch of split rims and if you are careful they are not too bad. (except on the front axle) Those are actually called "3 piece rims".
The worst were the two piece with the rim itself being split. Two helpers were trying to put a 10.00 X 20 on a semi trailer at one shop I worked when they jammed it on the hub and broke it down!! Luckily they just got a poop scare and could not hear well for a while.
I don't remember what the spacer did but I would put it back on. Also double check the lug nuts on the alum spacers and inspect for cracks.
I can't believe the crybabies would not remove the tires for you!! Once you let the air out of a split rim it can't hurt you.
I've mounted and dis-mounted a bunch of split rims and if you are careful they are not too bad. (except on the front axle) Those are actually called "3 piece rims".
The worst were the two piece with the rim itself being split. Two helpers were trying to put a 10.00 X 20 on a semi trailer at one shop I worked when they jammed it on the hub and broke it down!! Luckily they just got a poop scare and could not hear well for a while.
I don't remember what the spacer did but I would put it back on. Also double check the lug nuts on the alum spacers and inspect for cracks.
crazyal
Super Member
My IH has split rims. I change the tires myself. If the ring gets rusty then they can be a pain to break the tire bead. I use my backhoe. My guess is the tire shops didn't want to spend a lot of time dealing with them.
Be careful substituting later year rims. Be sure everything is the same, not just bolt pattern. These are hub piloted, so the center hole must be the same, not larger. Also be sure the bolt holes are the same, not larger. If the bolt hole is larger the wheel can rotate on the hub, loosen, etc. Chevy/GMC used a few different size studs, even in the same model years in the70's. I don't remember exact, but like 7/16", 1/2" and something else too. You need the rings to take the cone nuts and distribute the force. Chevy had a recall on some of the rings back in the day, they were cracking. I have owned a 73 C30 dually from new. Just be careful, as you see they can get loose and other problems.
RDrancher
Veteran Member
The aluminum spacer may indicate a narrower rear end swapped from a different year truck. I wouldn't run an aluminum spacer on the rear on any truck that was going to haul a lot of weight, but that's just me.
The "nub" ring lets you run any of your wheels on the rear in the reverse position. Without them there isn't any flare for the nut to seat on. Sorry, I'm probably not explaining it correctly, but that's the purpose of it.
The "nub" ring lets you run any of your wheels on the rear in the reverse position. Without them there isn't any flare for the nut to seat on. Sorry, I'm probably not explaining it correctly, but that's the purpose of it.
Could it be the emergency brake cable sticking? Just wondering.
Also maybe the axle was from a SRW truck and the "spacer" was used to make a dually? Or maybe to gain brake drum clearance for the reversed rim? Back in the early 70's the dually was referred to as a "dual wheel rear conversion" on the option sheet. I remember the dealer telling me everything else is the same except for the wheel conversion, even the GVW stayed the same; I believe it was 10K lbs back then.
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pclausen
Veteran Member
Harold, I did verify that the later year rims all have the same hub diameter, and they do. On the front, the only issue is that the studs are 1/2" where the wheels have holes for 9/16" studs. So I picked up some concentric lug nuts to the wheels won't be able to slip when applying the brakes.
The issue I have with the rear caliber is that when I loosen the bleed screw, no brake fluid comes up (I got a suction device). When I loosen the brake line feeding the caliber, I got plenty of fluid. Brake pedal has always been very spongy, and when I hit them hard on gravel, only the fronts lock up. Rears are doing nothing. So I need to get the air out, which I can't do until I figure out what's going on with the left rear caliber.
Ok, so I have to pull the axle to get the drum off. Figures. I had to do the same on my '02 Chevy 3500 to fix the parking brake to pass inspection. It was a bit of a pain. At least this way I will get a chance to fully inspect the rear components like I did the front.
RDRancher, your explanation about the "nub" ring makes perfect sense.
The issue I have with the rear caliber is that when I loosen the bleed screw, no brake fluid comes up (I got a suction device). When I loosen the brake line feeding the caliber, I got plenty of fluid. Brake pedal has always been very spongy, and when I hit them hard on gravel, only the fronts lock up. Rears are doing nothing. So I need to get the air out, which I can't do until I figure out what's going on with the left rear caliber.
Ok, so I have to pull the axle to get the drum off. Figures. I had to do the same on my '02 Chevy 3500 to fix the parking brake to pass inspection. It was a bit of a pain. At least this way I will get a chance to fully inspect the rear components like I did the front.
RDRancher, your explanation about the "nub" ring makes perfect sense.
