Picked up this little JD 175 Hydro today... some questions

[dieselfuelonly]

Well, the old Husky riding mower (made by MTD) has been slowly dying and has pretty much called it quits. So instead of paying money to get it fixed I got on Craigslist and found this.

It runs REALLY good, I can't believe how smooth it is for a single cylinder, idles great, the oil is clean, has a new battery, doesn't smoke at all, starts up fast and cuts great. I love the electric PTO... thats a feature that I've never had before on a riding mower but it sure is nice to when you are doing a lot of starting/stopping of the deck.

A couple questions: It appears to have 3 lights thats are connected to the panel on top of the dash. One lights up whe the fuel is low, but I'm not sure what the other 2 do.

Also, does anyone know what filter from NAPA cross-references to the JD one? And what type of oil should I run in it, and what other routine maintenance does it need (mainly the tranny, never owned a hydro tractor before).

Thanks for any advice!

Dennis

 

[RobS]

Nice looking little tractor there! If I could find something like that, I'd replace my Craftsman lawn tractor in a heartbeat.

 

[professor]

I owned a 1986 JD 165 Hydro and as I recall it only had the low fuel light.

 

[bontai_Joe]

Be carefull with that hood. They are not really fragile, but once broken they are difficult if not impossible to repair, and a replacement costs quite a bit of money. Tractor looks like it was well cared for.

 

[Runner]

Dieselfuelonly -

Great looking machine you have there. I have had a 185 for almost 20 years with no mechanical problems. Here is what the manual says regarding your questions:

First, the lights. On the left is oil pressure and on the right is battery.

Don't know about the NAPA filter, have always run the JD filters.

For oils it says "John Deere PLUS-4" recommended. Other oils may be used if they meet API Service Classification SF or SE. Goes on to say, 5W30 between -31 to +50 degrees, SAE 10W -4 to +50, SAE 10W30 -4 to +86, 10W40 -4 to +104, SAE 30 +32 to +122.

Transmission uses SAE 30 engine oil with API Classification of SE, CC or CD. Also, it says "IMPORTANT: To preven contamination in hydraulic system, DO NOT drain or change hydrostatic transmission fluid."

To check the tranny oil on the 175, it says to park on level surface and remove the tranny oil cap (under the seat). The level should be just above the screen in the bottom of the reservoir, or, 5.5 inches from the top of the reservoir fill tube. If oil level is low, add just enough to bring the oil level to just above the screen.

Differential should be checked to the level of the plug on the back of the diff. It uses SAE 90 gear oil.

I have had one electrical issue so far related to the brake pedal/starter interlock switch. This keeps the tractor from starting unless the brake pedal is pushed down. If it is bad, the tractor will do nothing when you turn the key (except the dash lights will come on). The interlock is located behind the plastic valence panel below the dash, on the left hand side. On mine, the problem was just corrosion on the spade terminals. I cleaned them up and it was working fine again.

Best of luck with your tractor and I wish you many happy hours of mowing.

Oh, by the way, don't forget to grease the mower spindles.

Runner

 

[Runner]

Dieselfuelonly-

Correction - I was looking at the 185 differential check before.... On the 175 it says "Remove check plug. FEEL: Oil should be a short distance below plug hole. If oil is low, add SAE 90 oil until you can feel oil. Install and tighten plug." Not very scientific, but that's what it says.

By the way, on the engine oil, it says it takes 3.8 pints with filter.

Again, best of luck.

Runner

 

[dieselfuelonly]

Runner, great info, thanks!

 

[Runner]

Dieselfuelonly -

Is it my imagination, or is the battery hold-down clamp missing? That might be something to attend to while you're doing the maintenance.

Runner

 

[ktvervs]

I also have a 175 I picked up a few years ago and it has been fantastic. I am experiencing an issue with the engagement of the blades when I throw the switch. I encountered this last year and it went away after a few tries. I have the tractor started and throw the switch with no results. The engine stays constant. I've tried lifting the seat and working the seat switch manually and have also changed the mower switch last year. I used the mower last week and now it doesn't engage. I am able to move the blades manually so i know they aren't jammed. Not sure what else to try.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks for the help.

Ken

 

[KB9UDE]

These tractors use an electric clutch to engage the blades. It could have went out or the switch could have quit working. I would test the switch first.


John