picture worth a thousand words
- Thread starter candyman
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k0ua
Epic Contributor
it is an air powered device with small vibrating rods to clean scale off of metal
here is a link:
Air Needle Scaler & Other Needle Scalers - Harbor Freight Tools
James K0UA
gwdixon
Elite Member
Check out post #36 on this thread. The link "Rod Selector..." tells it all.
You have a DC machine so it will run pretty much anything.
gwdixon
Elite Member
The large one is HUGE and heavy. You have to wrestle with it but it does a good job.
The small one is handy, doesn't have quite as much power, but will clean up a weld just fine.
I have both large and small - two of the small ones. Read the reviews on the HF site.
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IslandTractor
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Good point about needing full generator power before striking an arc. I wonder if it would work to build an a/b switch with a different constant load such as a heater or several work lights set up on the "a" side with the welder on the "b" side so that the generator would already be spinning when you flipped or kicked the switch from the constant load "a" side to the welder?
My generator has a switch to force full or near full output but I know many don't. I haven't used my generator with a stick setup and it works fine without modifications for MIG where striking the arc is less of an issue.
KubotainNH
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candyman
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i`m looking to get a lincoln welding helment, what would ya`ll suggest a
2450 or a 3350. ? or other suggestions. i saw them on ebay.
candyman
2450 or a 3350. ? or other suggestions. i saw them on ebay.
candyman
deereman75
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I have the darkfire one from home depot, and I love it. Same speed as the viking, but with a bit less adjustment. (eg for delay, fast and slow, not a dial) Also doesnt have a grind mode, which I think is a good thing, because I would be constantly flashing myself with that. It costs about $50 less then the base model viking.
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candyman
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suggestions on how to weld this together, the holes have to be drilled today & then i`m ready to weld.
by drilling holes every 3 or so inches i will be able to lift the blade higher, now for the welding what rod do i use. it`s all i/2 metal. the holes will be 7/8, plates will be on both side of the blade.
candyman
by drilling holes every 3 or so inches i will be able to lift the blade higher, now for the welding what rod do i use. it`s all i/2 metal. the holes will be 7/8, plates will be on both side of the blade.
candyman
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Gary Fowler
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Well I am not sure why you need to lift it higher than the lift point designs. If needed the blade to lift more, just shorten the top link and it will raise higher.
Now as for welding those plates. IF you really need to make an extension bracket, I would just buttweld them to the bottom of the existing brackets. Bevel each side from centerline so you have a V to the edge of your extension plate on a 37+or - degree and just leave the top bracket plate a square edge (remove the paint from the bracket before welding. When welding weld one pass on one side then switch to the other side and weld a pass. Clean each pass well with grinder. Try to keep about the same amount of weld on each side. Watch for the metal drawing to one side or other and if it does, weld a pass or two on the opposite side of the draw direction until it is straight again.
The way you have it in your photo, it will be nearly impossible to weld the back side. Welding from the bottom as I suggest, the welding will be all horizontal which is much easier than vertical. When welding horizontal, keep your rod pointed toward the top side with an incline of about 30-45 degrees up and about 20 degrees toward the puddle. I would use 3/32" 7018 rods all the way given your welding skills. Make your first pass then grind from the back side to sound metal and weld the other side. If you put about a 1/16" -1/8" gap between the pieces, it will allow for better penetration.
Now as for welding those plates. IF you really need to make an extension bracket, I would just buttweld them to the bottom of the existing brackets. Bevel each side from centerline so you have a V to the edge of your extension plate on a 37+or - degree and just leave the top bracket plate a square edge (remove the paint from the bracket before welding. When welding weld one pass on one side then switch to the other side and weld a pass. Clean each pass well with grinder. Try to keep about the same amount of weld on each side. Watch for the metal drawing to one side or other and if it does, weld a pass or two on the opposite side of the draw direction until it is straight again.
The way you have it in your photo, it will be nearly impossible to weld the back side. Welding from the bottom as I suggest, the welding will be all horizontal which is much easier than vertical. When welding horizontal, keep your rod pointed toward the top side with an incline of about 30-45 degrees up and about 20 degrees toward the puddle. I would use 3/32" 7018 rods all the way given your welding skills. Make your first pass then grind from the back side to sound metal and weld the other side. If you put about a 1/16" -1/8" gap between the pieces, it will allow for better penetration.
