Planting A Wind Break

MossRoad · Jan 17, 2002

I think it is called "pleaching". You can bend over the branch and tie it to the next one. Make a wound on both branches where they are tied together and they will grow together. Makes a really tough hedge that will hold cattle eventually.

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.hedgelayer.freeserve.co.uk/>Hedgelayer</A>

Our windbreak in our sandy field had shrubs in the first row(flowering crab, russian olive, spicebush) followed by a staggered row of white pines.

In our muck field, they used firs instead of pines due to the high moisture content. Also, they couldn't spray weed killer on the muck soil because it would travel easily to a nearby stream.

As far as fabric goes, have you ever thought about mowing near the fabric, only to get a little too close? You see this really long snake in the grass coming right at you as it winds around your mower blades, pulls down all of your plantings and strips the leaves off of the branches that it doesn't rip off of the stems(not that I've ever done that) /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif. I'd go with weed killer at the initial planting followed by mowing once or twice a year, depending on your conditions, until the trees get established.

Russ · Jan 17, 2002

I put in about 600ft of windbreak 5 years ago. I used eastern red cedars. The state has a program thru K-State if i remember right where you can get these trees for about a dollar a piece in larger quantities. I put in 2 rows spaced 10ft apart in the row. Spaced the rows 5ft apart and staggered the 2 rows kind of like a checker board. The cedars are very hardy once establised. Ran a drip system the 1st 2 years and keep the weeds down by tilling and spraying. It's a lot of work to establish a windbreak but well worth it.

JJT · Jan 17, 2002

For the past 2 years I've planted 200 - 300 tree each year and will continue to do so until the 5 acres between my driveway and my nearest neighbor is wall to wall evergreens. I also have heavy clay soil so I till in some organic material, (aged manure/straw/leaves/sawdust) in the fall prior to planting, (I often till twice - till, pick rocks, spread manure, till again). In the spring I order 50% arborvitea, (cedar trees), and 50% xmas tree mix, (blue spruce, scotch pine, colorado spruce, etc), from the NYS Soil and Water. The trees average 12 - 36 inches and cost less than $1 in quantities > 100. I then till again, (maybe twice if I have the time), picking any more stones that turn up. I use a mattock to dig the holes, (1 swing and you've got your hole), I set the tree, drop a fertilizer pellet, and backfill with a shovelful of screened loam/peat. I figure on 50% survival and plant the trees every 5 feet in rows 5 feet, (this allows me to get in between with my rider). Each tree gets a couple of handfuls of cedar mulch for moisture retention and weed control. If we get a dry spell I'll irrigate this years trees, otherwise they are on their own. If I can con the kids into helping we can plant 300 trees in a weekend, otherwise it takes 2 weekends.

jyoutz · Jan 18, 2002

RPM, you're going about your research correctly. The first part of your post is exactly what you should do prior to planting. The weed barrier fabric is a great idea too. I used to manage the state tree seedling windbreak program for state forestry in my state (AZ). My best advice to you is to contact your state forestry agency or local University AG Extension Program. Get the best local and up to date info. I will caution you to pay attention to recommended spacing guidelines for your species. Most people make the mistake of planting at a too close spacing. Also, soil preparation and grass/weed control is the best investment you will make in establishing your windbreak. Don't plant in an augered hole in hard ground, with grass within 3 feet of the tree. That will assure either failure or poor growth of your windbreak. Also, consider animal damage protection, and placement of the plants. If you don't properly consider the location of the windbreak, you can end up filling up your driveway or walkway with windblown snow. Proper placement can avoid this problem. I can tell you much more, but I hate to give advice when I haven't had the occassion to view your property. Go for the free state technical assistance. They specialize in this and won't steer you wrong.

Anonymous Poster · Jan 18, 2002

Having been in more or less the same spot you are 50 years back, let me give you a suggestion or 2.
First, the biggest mistake people make is weed supression on small seedling trees up to 3 feet in height. Leave the weeds alone, these trees need shade, or the summer sun kills them.
If you have access to wood chips, the free ones from tree chipping machines, put a heap of them around the base of the tree. They are best for retaining water, and supress weeds sufficiently too.
Japanese Larch grow faster than anything. They also aren't worth a dam for anything other than a fast groweing tree, cause the wood is worthless. The Larch also loose their needles in the winter, but they provide shade for younger evergreens, and are easy to cut out when you have a good row of evergreens growing.
We put in 8,000 trees over a 5 year period, Larch to the west followed by rows of Norway Spruce and White Pines. White Pine suffers a lot of damage drom heavy snow load, but they do look nice.
We are in Hilton Red clay, fantastic stuff, for making flower pots, and growing weeds. The trees we planted were state trees, averaging a foot tall when planted. Simply stick a shovel in the ground, push handle forward, slide tree in behind shovel, and remove shlove. Step on the upset earth and the hole is closed. Losses will be about 50% in clay, so plant every 5 feet, and hope. They move fairly well when about 3 feet tall.
The biggest problem is grape vines. Cut them off as soon as you see them.
50 years later, I have some nice 50 foot white pines, and Norway Spruce. I also have many trees ranging from 2 feet to 50 feet high from seeds the squirrels didn't get.
Do not create a Monoculture, it is NOT conducive to good groth.
You can easily harvest a few crops of christmas trees as your trees grow and you need to thin.

MikePA · Jan 20, 2002

Did you consider using something like a leyland cyprus or arbor vitae?

RPM · Jan 20, 2002

beenthere,

Mowing around these trees with the fabric down is almost impossible, at best

I'm interested to know why you say this - I understood that you pin down the fabric with (what look like) 6" staples and then you only have to mow along the edges (or maybe a few inches back and weed-whack the rest).

Patrick

RPM · Jan 20, 2002

Also, consider animal damage protection

Luckily that shouldn't be a problem here ... the rodent population has plummeted since we got a couple of cats a year ago. The rabbits have moved a respectful distance away too.

Thanks for the advice though - I have a call into my local service forester and am waiting for a call back.

Patrick

RPM · Jan 20, 2002

Franz,

Thanks for the advice ...

Do not create a Monoculture, it is NOT conducive to good growth

This is the biggest temptation for me - I'm in the process of going back through the catalogs and trying to make it more of a mix though!

Patrick

RPM · Jan 20, 2002

Did you consider using something like a leyland cyprus or arbor vitae?

Well ... a farmer a few miles away tried arborvitae in a similar position and it's all dead now. Leyland Cypress may be an option, but it seems that it's difficult to buy it wholesale anymore -- the tree has gone out of fashion due to overuse I think. The only nurseries I've seen selling it are in the South and I'm hesitant to place a big order and move them from the sunny south to a nasty, dry, windy place in the cold North East!

If you've had success with them in PA please let me know!

Patrick