Planting A Wind Break

[RPM]

I've been looking into this for months now - and thought I would share what I have learned to get some feedback.

My situation is that I need to plant a windbreak along one of the property lines - around 1000 feet. My house is basically in a big field on the top of a hill with nothing but grass around it. Sunsets, sunrises and the stars at night are all a spectacle to behold - but the winter wind is absolutely vicious. Soil is heavy clay and reasonably rocky (but nothing like New England!)

Because of the length of the windbreak I'm putting in, I'm looking at bulk buying tree seedlings from someplace like Musser Forests. Probably 2-3 year transplants. There are two areas that I am in the process of deciding on the course of action with ... I'd be very interested in real world experience on any of these.

1. Ripping & tilling vs. Post hole digger / planting bar for planting

All the latest research I have read says to rip the clay soil and then till a 4 foot wide strip before planting 2-3 year seedlings. Apparently this is far better for root development of young trees than putting in a hole with a post hole digger or planter. Supposedly the down-side to using the post hole digger is that it is just like potting the tree - the compacted clay soil around the tree hole restricts root growth. In the worst case you can glaze the side of the hole and really end up with problems. Numbers quoted are of the order of 50-100% better tree growth in the first few years if you rip & till vs using a post hole digger.

2. Use of weed-block fabric in place of spraying (or no attention)

A second recommendation is the use of weed-block fabric in place of spraying, wood chips or no attention. Obviously, you want to keep weed competition down for the first few years. Supposedly the use of fabric also reduces rodent problems (which are apparently a big deal if you use greater than 3" of wood chips) and reduces water loss from the soil around the seedling. The fabric is also supposed to be better for exposed areas - I know the wood chips I had around some foundation plantings are all in the next county! Life of the fabric is around 5 years.


I have quite a bit of information on the different rows of trees to plant. I was hoping to get away with just one or two rows, but it looks like it will eventually be three. Probably choke-cherry and Osage Orange as the first two - and then maybe a third row of evergreens next year.

Any and all feedback is welcome! I know this whole exercise won't be quick, easy or cheap.

Patrick

 

[TerryinMD]

Patrick,

Call your county extension office. They might have a tree planting program and have seedlings at a reasonable cost. Another possibililty is to see if you qualify for any Federal programs, you might be surprised at what you find.

Terry

 

[Thomas]

Evergreens are a good wind breaker...but the root system more of a top feeder.I planted several rows 8' apart and it does help,but the care{pruning,trimming&mowing around,insects etc..}can cost many hours...also a good lighting rod. /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gifDepending on the type of soil you have also the trees in which you enjoy,maybe contact your local forrest warden for an ideas.

 

[rdln]

Evergreens will block the most winter wind, white,red, and scotch are probably the fastest growning but scotch will die from something before they are tall enough to break wind /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif. At least 3 rows, 500 trees 1 year olds should run no more that $100, 3 and 4 years about a dollar/tree.

As far as soil work goes for seedlings rip and till mostly to get rid choking turf if you could rent a 3ph transplanter then spray round-up with out tilling before planting. bigger trees have deeper roots and you want the tap root going straight down so dig with PHD.

Buy from a county soil & water conservation district if you can they get great volume discounts.

Definitely get advice from extension agent.

 

[beenthere]

I would not negate anything you have found in your research, as most everything will work up to a point. Some approaches are more work, more expensive, and have mixed success depending upon the weather, etc.
For your questions, if I were doing the planting, I would use roundup and rip the soil in the fall only along the tree planting lines (2 ft. max width). In the spring, I would use a planting bar. If a post hole digger was used, I would get a 12" diam auger. Make 100% sure that the roots are not exposed to air before planting, and that the roots are not twisted when planted. They will grow in whatever configuration they are planted. Once the roots are established, I think they will penetrate the clay soil without much problem. If you have found otherwise, please clue me into the source. I would like to learn more about it.

Question 2, I would spray with pre-emergence spray in the spring and not use the fabric, mostly due to the extra work for fabric, the cost for fabric, and the long term results of fabric. Mowing around these trees with the fabric down is almost impossible, at best. The first year, some roundup may be needed along with careful mowing to keep down the ugly weeds that can come up and compete for water and light. Mow by throwing the mown grass toward the trees for mulch.

For the windbreak, have you considered spruce? In moist soils (clay), it should grow well, be very dense, and stop a lot of wind. I don't see how choke-cherry and Osage Orange would block much wind in the winter time, but maybe someone else knows that it does.

Good luck with your decisions.

 

[Knight9]

In our area ALL windbreaks are of the evergreen variety. That may be because deciduous trees in our climate only shelter 1/2 of the year /w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif.

As far as roots penetrating a dug hole, I have always heard that if you dig a hole with a machine (ie post hole digger) and the sides are smooth, you should etch the sides with a shovel to allow points of penetration for roots. Otherwise the roots may remain in the hole only and weaken the strength of the tree.

According to <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.treehelp.com/howto/howto-plant-a-tree.html>Treehelp.com</A>...."When digging in poorly drained clay soil, it is important to avoid ‘glazing’. Glazing occurs when the sides and bottom of a hole become smoothed forming a barrier, through which water has difficulty passing. To break up the glaze, use a fork to work the bottom and drag the points along the sides of the completed hole. Also, raising the bottom of the hole slightly higher than the surrounding area. This allows water to disperse, reducing the possibility of water pooling in the planting zone."

Kevin

 

[canuk]

Having planted over 800 twigs on my property I've discovered that our biggest problem hasn't been weeds, it's been gophers!

We planted in individual holes which the gophers find almost immediately and love due to the nice soft dirt. The end result is a buried tree or no tree at all.

From now on we're either going to plant the twigs in a biodegradable pot or use my new tiller to break up the ground around the plants. Hopefully the gophers will leave the trees alone.

Warren

 

[jdkid]

Hi ya
i'd go with the spray rip kinda deal ..roundup works ok but i'd just spray spots where ya want the trees some long grass a yard or so from ya trees can act as a windbrake for the young trees some trees ya can release spray after ya plant i think most evergreens pines,firs,conafers(?)can be done but pay to check this will help keep weeds down frist few years and cheeper than mowing each week ..as for animal atacks there is some stuff ya can buy to spray young trees that keep most animals off them but again ya would have to find out from a tree guy in your area ...ok ripping try to do this the year before or reroll after ripping ya can have big air pockets that don't do ya trees alot of good if ripped i'd plant with a spade not a post hole digger cut's down the risk of glazing ,if the soil stays wet this is not a prob but if it drys (clay ground is worst)it bakes it may stop some water but the real reson is the young roots can not brake though it ,in time they will (most have seen tree roots grow though pipes!) but there roots may never grow to a strong system..another thing is some trees are root cut or wrenched ie the tap root is removed in bad windy areas try to stay away from these ,they do it here for forstry trees so rootraking is eazer keep in mind winter sun too ya may find in some areas a evergreen may make ya place to cold so maybe a mix of short evergreens with bigger leafdroppers to give summer shade and still slow some wind ..the big thing is DON'T make a wall let some wind still go though think of this hold a bit of windbrake cloth and a bit of plastic up in a strong wind whats going to last??
oh yea slow release fert may help too
catch ya
JD Kid

 

[RPM]

<font color=blue>white,red, and scotch are probably the fastest growning but scotch will die from something before they are tall enough to break wind </font color=blue>

Funny you should mention that. My neighbor has a single row of scotch pine around his property that isn't doing too well!

Patrick

 

[RPM]

beenthere,

Thanks for the tips - I'll look into the Spruce.

For the Osage Orange, the tip I was given was to train it as a fence. The instructions were simple, but I don't know anyone that has done it in practice.

When the Osage Orange is around 3 feet tall (1-2 years depending on the usual factors), you bend them over in the fall and tie them off to each other. The next year the lateral branches will grow up again. You tie those off in the fall a second time. After this you leave them alone for a thick hedge.

I was told that although a hedge like this doesn't block all of the wind, it will do quite a bit of good. It is also a good barrier to plant a row of evergreens behind so they don't get knocked around too badly.

Patrick

 

[MossRoad]

I think it is called "pleaching". You can bend over the branch and tie it to the next one. Make a wound on both branches where they are tied together and they will grow together. Makes a really tough hedge that will hold cattle eventually.

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.hedgelayer.freeserve.co.uk/>Hedgelayer</A>

Our windbreak in our sandy field had shrubs in the first row(flowering crab, russian olive, spicebush) followed by a staggered row of white pines.

In our muck field, they used firs instead of pines due to the high moisture content. Also, they couldn't spray weed killer on the muck soil because it would travel easily to a nearby stream.

As far as fabric goes, have you ever thought about mowing near the fabric, only to get a little too close? You see this really long snake in the grass coming right at you as it winds around your mower blades, pulls down all of your plantings and strips the leaves off of the branches that it doesn't rip off of the stems(not that I've ever done that) /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif. I'd go with weed killer at the initial planting followed by mowing once or twice a year, depending on your conditions, until the trees get established.

 

[Russ]

I put in about 600ft of windbreak 5 years ago. I used eastern red cedars. The state has a program thru K-State if i remember right where you can get these trees for about a dollar a piece in larger quantities. I put in 2 rows spaced 10ft apart in the row. Spaced the rows 5ft apart and staggered the 2 rows kind of like a checker board. The cedars are very hardy once establised. Ran a drip system the 1st 2 years and keep the weeds down by tilling and spraying. It's a lot of work to establish a windbreak but well worth it.

 

[JJT]

For the past 2 years I've planted 200 - 300 tree each year and will continue to do so until the 5 acres between my driveway and my nearest neighbor is wall to wall evergreens. I also have heavy clay soil so I till in some organic material, (aged manure/straw/leaves/sawdust) in the fall prior to planting, (I often till twice - till, pick rocks, spread manure, till again). In the spring I order 50% arborvitea, (cedar trees), and 50% xmas tree mix, (blue spruce, scotch pine, colorado spruce, etc), from the NYS Soil and Water. The trees average 12 - 36 inches and cost less than $1 in quantities > 100. I then till again, (maybe twice if I have the time), picking any more stones that turn up. I use a mattock to dig the holes, (1 swing and you've got your hole), I set the tree, drop a fertilizer pellet, and backfill with a shovelful of screened loam/peat. I figure on 50% survival and plant the trees every 5 feet in rows 5 feet, (this allows me to get in between with my rider). Each tree gets a couple of handfuls of cedar mulch for moisture retention and weed control. If we get a dry spell I'll irrigate this years trees, otherwise they are on their own. If I can con the kids into helping we can plant 300 trees in a weekend, otherwise it takes 2 weekends.

 

[jyoutz]

RPM, you're going about your research correctly. The first part of your post is exactly what you should do prior to planting. The weed barrier fabric is a great idea too. I used to manage the state tree seedling windbreak program for state forestry in my state (AZ). My best advice to you is to contact your state forestry agency or local University AG Extension Program. Get the best local and up to date info. I will caution you to pay attention to recommended spacing guidelines for your species. Most people make the mistake of planting at a too close spacing. Also, soil preparation and grass/weed control is the best investment you will make in establishing your windbreak. Don't plant in an augered hole in hard ground, with grass within 3 feet of the tree. That will assure either failure or poor growth of your windbreak. Also, consider animal damage protection, and placement of the plants. If you don't properly consider the location of the windbreak, you can end up filling up your driveway or walkway with windblown snow. Proper placement can avoid this problem. I can tell you much more, but I hate to give advice when I haven't had the occassion to view your property. Go for the free state technical assistance. They specialize in this and won't steer you wrong.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Having been in more or less the same spot you are 50 years back, let me give you a suggestion or 2.
First, the biggest mistake people make is weed supression on small seedling trees up to 3 feet in height. Leave the weeds alone, these trees need shade, or the summer sun kills them.
If you have access to wood chips, the free ones from tree chipping machines, put a heap of them around the base of the tree. They are best for retaining water, and supress weeds sufficiently too.
Japanese Larch grow faster than anything. They also aren't worth a dam for anything other than a fast groweing tree, cause the wood is worthless. The Larch also loose their needles in the winter, but they provide shade for younger evergreens, and are easy to cut out when you have a good row of evergreens growing.
We put in 8,000 trees over a 5 year period, Larch to the west followed by rows of Norway Spruce and White Pines. White Pine suffers a lot of damage drom heavy snow load, but they do look nice.
We are in Hilton Red clay, fantastic stuff, for making flower pots, and growing weeds. The trees we planted were state trees, averaging a foot tall when planted. Simply stick a shovel in the ground, push handle forward, slide tree in behind shovel, and remove shlove. Step on the upset earth and the hole is closed. Losses will be about 50% in clay, so plant every 5 feet, and hope. They move fairly well when about 3 feet tall.
The biggest problem is grape vines. Cut them off as soon as you see them.
50 years later, I have some nice 50 foot white pines, and Norway Spruce. I also have many trees ranging from 2 feet to 50 feet high from seeds the squirrels didn't get.
Do not create a Monoculture, it is NOT conducive to good groth.
You can easily harvest a few crops of christmas trees as your trees grow and you need to thin.

 

[MikePA]

Did you consider using something like a leyland cyprus or arbor vitae?

 

[RPM]

beenthere,

<font color=blue>Mowing around these trees with the fabric down is almost impossible, at best</font color=blue>

I'm interested to know why you say this - I understood that you pin down the fabric with (what look like) 6" staples and then you only have to mow along the edges (or maybe a few inches back and weed-whack the rest).

Patrick

 

[RPM]

<font color=blue>Also, consider animal damage protection</font color=blue>

Luckily that shouldn't be a problem here ... the rodent population has plummeted since we got a couple of cats a year ago. The rabbits have moved a respectful distance away too.

Thanks for the advice though - I have a call into my local service forester and am waiting for a call back.

Patrick

 

[RPM]

Franz,

Thanks for the advice ...

<font color=blue>Do not create a Monoculture, it is NOT conducive to good growth</font color=blue>

This is the biggest temptation for me - I'm in the process of going back through the catalogs and trying to make it more of a mix though!

Patrick

 

[RPM]

<font color=blue>Did you consider using something like a leyland cyprus or arbor vitae?</font color=blue>

Well ... a farmer a few miles away tried arborvitae in a similar position and it's all dead now. Leyland Cypress may be an option, but it seems that it's difficult to buy it wholesale anymore -- the tree has gone out of fashion due to overuse I think. The only nurseries I've seen selling it are in the South and I'm hesitant to place a big order and move them from the sunny south to a nasty, dry, windy place in the cold North East!

If you've had success with them in PA please let me know!

Patrick