Play in all joints

   / Play in all joints #11  
One more thing about the zerks on our attachments, on the mini hoe up next to the bucket there is one zerk that makes me feel that it is exposed too much and could get broken off easily as a matter of fact the last time I greased it the zerk was gone but it hadn't broke off in the hole so I put another one in. I was thinking that if after you greased the joint if I losened it just a bit then if it did break off then removal of the broke off piece would be easier. Where that particular one is located I could put a couple wraps of electrical tape around it to keep it from coming out. I hope this makes sense, what my intent with this post is a suggestion to help save someone from having a headache trying to remove a broken piece when that piece didn't in the first place have to be torqued so tight.
 
   / Play in all joints #12  
I've lost the grease zerk on my brush hog a few times... the one on the top of the pivot point that allows the deck to roll side-to-side. I think it is a tad loose on the threads and it just falls out from time to time. So much so that I am sometimes tempted to disassemble it and drill it out to the next size. However, it is in a place that is not protected from brush and abuse, to it is probably good that it is loose, so it it is snapped off by brush, the stub would be easily removed. I may think about your solution in regards to putting a ring around it.
 
   / Play in all joints #13  
One more thing about the zerks on our attachments, on the mini hoe up next to the bucket there is one zerk that makes me feel that it is exposed too much and could get broken off easily as a matter of fact the last time I greased it the zerk was gone but it hadn't broke off in the hole so I put another one in. I was thinking that if after you greased the joint if I losened it just a bit then if it did break off then removal of the broke off piece would be easier. Where that particular one is located I could put a couple wraps of electrical tape around it to keep it from coming out. I hope this makes sense, what my intent with this post is a suggestion to help save someone from having a headache trying to remove a broken piece when that piece didn't in the first place have to be torqued so tight.

Heavy use on the mini hoe has shown me that I need to check for missing zerks after each use. On average I replace 3 each time. Never have they broken off but are just missing which suggests vibration to thread out.
PJ
 
   / Play in all joints
  • Thread Starter
#14  
JJ and all - thanks!
That is what I thought (that the swivel is only for avoiding stress due to imperfect alignment).
I agree w/MR that it would be good to be able to directly lube the bolt/sleeve where the rotation actually occurs.
When time hangs heavy (ha!) I might drill one of the bolts from the head end and another perpendicular (well cleaned up on the bearing surface) and add a zerk fitting to try it out.
Looks like a 3/32" to 1/8" dia. wouldn't take too much material away - still plenty of shear strength on the bolt assuming 36K yield or 24K working.
 
   / Play in all joints #15  
I'm fairly certain that my owner's manual shows grease zerks somewhere on the FEL mechanism in some locations that do not exist on the tractor. As I recall, after 8 hours of operation, I attempted to do my lubrication and could not find them. A call to the factory revealed they stopped putting the zerks in the location I was looking for and didn't update the manual. Now I will have to find my manual and see just where those points were. :confused:
 
   / Play in all joints #16  
As I said before, the ball should not rotate, but have a side to side movement.

I would loosen the sides to allow up and down movement, or you will be wearing both the center, and the ball, wearing out the race part of the assembly.

Thanks, I will do it tonight before I go out and clear the drive off from the 10" of snow we are supposed to get.
 

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