Please help with clutch issue

Hinomotoman · Aug 27, 2012

I did a little more troubleshooting. I disconnected the pedal and moved the lever by hand. It doesn't touch the pressure plate until it's an inch past the furthest adjustment on the linkage. I guess I'll split the tractor again Saturday and find out why it doesn't reach.

Eugene

BIG DOOLEY · Aug 27, 2012

WOW!
THATS QUITE A BIT.
WELL SPLITTING THE TRACTOR WILL BE EASIER WHEN IT IS STILL FRESH IN YOUR MIND.
HOPEFULLY IT IS A SIMPLE FIX THAT YOU JUST DIDN'T NOTICE THE FIRST TIME APART.
BEING ABLE TO DO YOUR OWN REPAIR WORK IS REALLY SELF GRATIFYING, EVEN IF IT TAKES A LITTLE LONGER OR A FEW MISTAKES ARE MADE ONE THE WAY.
GOOD LUCK SATURDAY
TOM

zonta223 · Aug 27, 2012

Hinomotoman said:
I did a little more troubleshooting. I disconnected the pedal and moved the lever by hand. It doesn't touch the pressure plate until it's an inch past the furthest adjustment on the linkage. I guess I'll split the tractor again Saturday and find out why it doesn't reach.

Eugene

Does the tractor have a roll pin in the connection between the shaft that goes into the Clutch and the clutch lever???. Sounds as though something has moved and you don't get full movement........Just a thought

Hinomotoman · Aug 28, 2012

Yes it has a roll pin on the clutch pedal lever as well as 2 roll pins on the bearing fork. At first I thought I may have done something wrong but I'm not thinking that anymore. I'll let everyone know what I find.

Eugene

Hinomotoman · Sep 1, 2012

OK. I split the tractor again . Only took 1 1/2 hours this time but I hadn't put any sheet metal back on. The new clutch disc was stuck to the freshly machined flywheel. I had to use a deadblow hammer to get it off. I still found nothing unusual about the linkage but I still have to adjust it all the way out to work and I have about 2" of freeplay in the pedal. I'm going to get a piece of threaded rod and made a longer linkage. At least it works now. LeeJohn, you hit it right on the head. I wouldn't have thought that would have happened with new parts. Live and learn. Thanks to everybody.

Eugene

BIG DOOLEY · Sep 1, 2012

GLAD TO HEAR YOUR UP AND RUNNING.
TOM

brcisna · Sep 1, 2012

Hinomotoman,
I am curious. Did you put a new throw out bearing in the tractor when you done the rebuild? If so,,did you do a side by side comparison,,with the old TO and your new TO? Also,,do you have an actual repair manual,,you are using for putting the tractor back together? Not trying to sound like a smart alic,,,just possibly,,,giving some other ideas..If the throwout fork doesnt appear to be physically bent,,,something is not in the right position,,,,it goes without saying.
Let us know your progress.

BC

BIG DOOLEY · Sep 1, 2012

WHAT IS THE MF MODEL NUMBER # OF YOU TRACTOR AND H POWER
I FEEL YOU GOT THE WRONG BEARING OR HAVE SOMETHING INSTALLED WRONG OR A PART MISSING ALSO.
TOM

Hinomotoman · Sep 3, 2012

I did install a new throwout bearing. The diminsions were identical as far as ID. OD and thickness. The original has a slight taper on the front. The replacement is square shouldered. That would make me think it would disengage sooner. But remember it was doing the same thing with the original parts. The TO fork is cast iron. I doesn't appear to be bent. I do have the factory manual (4" thick) but it is very vague. It's a MF 220-4.

Eugene

brcisna · Sep 3, 2012

Eugene,

It is hard to tell by your avatar picture if you tractor is 4WD? it appears it is,but not sure. This really dont make sense for what you are desrcibing but,my Mitsubishi being a 4Wd has an inner and outer driveshaft. is this the way you Hino,,is?... In other words the clutch plate 'catches' on two sets of splines on each of the two driveshafts.
(I had to reclutch my bomb 6 months ago,,so voice of experience talking)
I would say at this point just go to a bolt shop and get some grade eight all thred and cut to what length you think is needed extra over your current adjustmen rod,,and give it a try.
FYI,,You should ONLY need 1/2" free play in pedal,and no more.
If you have a manual im sure you have the pieces puit back in place as required.
One stupid question. Did you have the throw fork unpinned from the bell housing?is it possible to have the fork 180 degress off?I am thinking it would easily look 'physically wrong",but is a possibility.
Also did you buy this tractor new? I think you said it only has 700 hrs on it?
Let us know your progress.

take Care,
Barry