Pole Barn Advice

   / Pole Barn Advice #1  

ssuesens

New member
Joined
Aug 8, 2007
Messages
4
Location
Fort Worth TX
Tractor
Ford 1720 and MF TO30
I've been watching this board for a year and finally have a project worth sharing. I'm putting up a 30 x 40 pole barn with an attached 30 x 16 loafing shed. For financial reasons :( I will be pouring a slab inside the barn sometime in the next year. Here are my two questions:

1. What type of flooring could I put in now which would be economical and not become a pain when I am able to pour the slab? I was thinking crushed granite or perhaps pea gravel. I'm hoping it can act as the base for my concrete. Any thoughts on the product or process would be greatly appreciated.

2. The barn will eventually become my workshop so I am thinking of adding insulation. Anyone have any experience with the spray foam insulation you see on some of the DIY shows? I believe there are open cell and closed cell products. Can this also be applied to the ceiling (corrugated tin)?

Thanks!!!
 
   / Pole Barn Advice #2  
SIR,
i suggest you build larger, because it will fill up
quickly. i have a 30X50 WICK building, and it should
have been larger. i had the company install insulation
in the roof while it was under construction. i installed
it in the walls myself, and it helps a lot. keeps it cool
in the summer, and warm in the winter. i do not know
much about the sprayed in insulation, but i have been
told if there is fire, you only have a few seconds to get
out of the building, before the fumes kill you.
good luck with your project.
accordionman
wlbrown
wright city, mo.
 
   / Pole Barn Advice #3  
HELLO,
forgot to comment on your floor question.
i suggest you use the gravel in the floor until
you can get a concrete floor. if you have some
heavy machines for your shop, consider making
the concrete slightly thicker than normal.
accordionman
wlbrown
wright city, mo.
 
   / Pole Barn Advice #4  
We have used large gravel compacted then a few inches of crushed lime on top. Once the lime dries out it is really hard for walking and driving over but jacks and the like will dig into it. Dads building has been like that for over 20 years and he hasn't had to do anything to it. My shop fl;oor has that for a base without so much lime. I pored it 24x40 with no expansion joints and it 8 years I have no cracks or shifting.
 
   / Pole Barn Advice #5  
Try crusher run, just 2 hrs North of you a company sells it, today it was $4.95 a ton, we use it on our roadways and in time that stuff packs hard! Then when you pour your floor you will have a great base.
 
   / Pole Barn Advice #6  
I agree with blueriver - crusher run (what we call agrilime around here) packs down good - especially if you settle it with a lawn sprinkler - and gets plenty hard. I've never had any problems with jacks settling, but then i also put a board under them to help spread the weight and limit "gouge points"
if you're going to put more than cars on the slab after it's poured, I'd go with 6" thick and use plenty of rebar & remesh.

as to insulation, the spray foams work good but are expensive. I'd check around for surplus EPS (styrofoam) and cut it to fit between the poles - then cover with plywood for the walls. Go with the 4X8 sheets of foil backed foam for the ceiling. (or the foil & bubble wrap stuff you can staple to the bottom of the purlins) and don't forget bug/rodent shields at the bottom of the walls or they'll burrow into whatever insulation you go with.
 
   / Pole Barn Advice #7  
Don't use pea gravel. i doesn't pack well.

I have been told to use clear crushed stone in my pole barn because it drains better then the limebased product.[called traffic bond in our area]

You can always call a local concrete co. and ask them what they recommend.

Shane
 
   / Pole Barn Advice #8  
Sorry spray insulation is good but $$$$$ i e-mail tigerfoam and gave them my measurements they said the price would be $10,000 yet that is alittle silly. So i went to Foam Insulation Kits by Fomo Foam - Official Site and figured out what i needed not what someone told me i need. The price came in at $7000.

I understand you don't need a vapour barrier with the spray foam. Also the ridge foam is good but once you start pricing that out you will so realize that is not to cheap either.

Shane
 
   / Pole Barn Advice #9  
ssuesens said:
I've been watching this board for a year and finally have a project worth sharing. I'm putting up a 30 x 40 pole barn with an attached 30 x 16 loafing shed. For financial reasons :( I will be pouring a slab inside the barn sometime in the next year. Here are my two questions:

1. What type of flooring could I put in now which would be economical and not become a pain when I am able to pour the slab? I was thinking crushed granite or perhaps pea gravel. I'm hoping it can act as the base for my concrete. Any thoughts on the product or process would be greatly appreciated.

2. The barn will eventually become my workshop so I am thinking of adding insulation. Anyone have any experience with the spray foam insulation you see on some of the DIY shows? I believe there are open cell and closed cell products. Can this also be applied to the ceiling (corrugated tin)?

Thanks!!!

Don't guess. Call around to concrete contractors and find out what type of gravel they recommend. Also ask if a plastic vapor barrier is needed.

I had a 24x42 ft concrete slab poured in June05. The contractor recommended a 6 mil thick Visqueen vapor barrier under the gravel.

My slab is 6" thick, 4000 psi concrete, #4 rebar criss-crossed on 24" centers.
 
   / Pole Barn Advice #10  
yes what you want to do is use #2 crushed stone. why? 1 it packs down w/ no compaction needed to like 97% 2 it drains water away good.
put a 6 mill poly under crete this will help w/ sweating. i would also use mesh
5x10' 6x6 10 ga sheets. this is much safer than rolls. if you wanna really do a nice job you can put foamular 150 board under it this will help w/ cold tranmission thru it. power trowel smooth and seal w/ a penetrating type sealer. i like UGL brand (drylock clear masonry treatment) it penetrates in and does not leave a a surface film. do not use a product that leaves a surface film they will be very slick w/ a little h20
dws
 

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