Pole Barn Advice

[jimmysisson]

Eddie, I have to disagree in our climate at least. We have expansive clay soils in many places here, which hold moisture for a long time. We also have a 4' deep frost-protection in our building code, properly so. We've built lots of garages over the years, with slabs poured on compacted gravel. The early ones, with no poly under the slab, do seem to get damp (concrete) in spring and fall, when condensation is not a factor. They get WET in the summer, when we have high humidity and 80's-90's.
Later, we put poly under them and cut down on spring-fall dampness, but no change in summer sweating. Now, I recommend an inch of XPS foam directly under the slab, no poly. The foam isolates the concrete from ground temperature, and cuts any wicking. These slabs stay pretty dry year-round, even in the humid mid-summer. Different climates will likely act different.
I'm with Eddie on the pour-it-now bandwagon. The thought of putting all your tools, supplies, and busted vehicles out in the rain for a week while you're pouring the slab 4 years later will just stop you from ever doing so.
Jim

 

[wedge40]

If you were going to build a barn in stages, would you pour the cement first and then build the barn? I know you would have the added expense of footers but I guess getting it out of the way first would better.

Wedge

 

[Robert_in_NY]

If you were going to build a barn in stages, would you pour the cement first and then build the barn? I know you would have the added expense of footers but I guess getting it out of the way first would better.

Wedge

It depends on the type of barn you want to build. If you are building a pole barn you just put up the barn and you can park your equipment inside and have them protected from the elements and thieves. If you pour a slab then you will be parking your equipment out in the open on the slab until you start building the barn. Being that it is a slab already you will most likely build a stick frame building. Both ways work but if money is an issue then put the barn up now and you have what you need and the rest is a luxury for when you can afford it.

 

[AlanB]

I am having the same debate at the moment, and hope that by late summer I have come to a conclusion.

My best current thoughts, as I agree with what Eddie says about never getting around too it after I start using it, was to build smaller,,, Then I realize I always want it bigger, right now, current thought is

40 X 60 pole barn construction, posts poured in concrete (to be fixed in 20 years if they rot ughhh) metal truss's, with 4:12 pitch on 12' centers.

Then go in and pour half.

Then build a heated and AC'd 12 X 15 or so shop inside with double doors to work on motorcycles and components.

The reality for us is I want the mowers, tractors etc inside and sheltered, but they do not really need to be on concrete.

I worry things to death, and at 11:38 today that is my firm decision

 

[ssuesens]

Photo's Below
Thanks for a great amount of information, opinion, and wisdom. Here's an update:

Bought the 30x40 pole barn package from southerlands for $4100 with a few design changes in mind. On the narrow end I added a 16 x 30 loafing shed for livestock, and on the opposite end a 10 x 30 covered shed for parking the tractor and implements. My initial question was what to do about the floor. Budget didn't allow me to pour a slab right now. I left the floor dirt and will tackle that later. I plan to insulate with 1" rigid foam and then place three quarter OSB over that.

My new question is "What's the one thing you wish you would have done (or glad that you did)when building your shop/barn?"

Thanks

 

[6sunset6]

I built 32 x 64 x 12' H one thing should have pipes in floor for radient heat . Collectors on the roof with photovotaic pump. Keep it at 35-40d all by itself.
second thing steel roof I did shingles.
Good things
vapor barrier and foam under the concrete. 5 x 10 flats of wire
4 inches concrete did not do control cracks should have but did not really matter
6" insulation at the 12' ceiling and the walls. 4' drywall up the walls to cover the wiring.
in the gable end 10' w x 11'3" door 3 " thick with power opener. in the long wall facing south 10 patio glass replacement panels 30" by xx standing vertical starting 4 ' high
So building is dry , fairly lite up for walking in and finding things, insulation under the floor keeps the concrete from being a cold trap.
The windows all have broken glass sensors tied into an alarm system, Really big horn.
UMM I have seen the creek out of its banks 10' from the door once and 1 foot from the door once in 20 years. SO maybe 12 " higher. But then it is a barn.

ahh Picture tomorrow

 

[6sunset6]

pictures
Dragline bucket keeps people from hitting the corner of the barn.

 

[Robert_in_NY]

pictures
Dragline bucket keeps people from hitting the corner of the barn.

I like the bucket but was shocked at how many large windows you have in your barn. Do you even need a light bulb in there during the day

 

[6sunset6]

Those windows face 17d W of South which is sun south here. They are the only windows in the barn. Pretty much do not need lights during the day when the sun is shining. They are E glass which helps trap heat some.
It is nice to have all that light inside. I have a lath, mill ,drill press and surface frinder as well as my workbench along that wall. I sort of thought I could wall off that space maybe 8feet parallel to the window wall for a smaller winter workshop. Never got around to it. Just don't work out there when it is below 20d F. If I don't have to. I do have a double drum wood stove in there and a ceiling fan.
I can heat it up if I have to.

 

[Robert_in_NY]

All the windows we use now are are Low E with Argon. They are much nicer windows and are not that much more then standard windows.