Pole barn ceiling options?

[LD1]

Ditto on using the metal for the ceiling. That's what I plan on doing for my next shop. Which once I move to my new place I will start. Which will be similar size. Probably 40x64 as well.

If you don't mind, I'd like to ask you a few questions.

Trusses. Why did you decide to go 4' centers and not 8? And how much was each truss?

Is your building 14' high?, that's my plan. And if so, just the framing an metal, what do you figure you have in material $$?

Not sure of I am going to do this one myself? Or just hire the framing and then do the concrete, wiring, insulation, etc myself. I suppose it all depends on cost. If a few grand in labor will expedite getting me a roof and I can do the rest later I will. But I know quotes can be all over the place.

 

[GManBart]

Ditto on using the metal for the ceiling. That's what I plan on doing for my next shop. Which once I move to my new place I will start. Which will be similar size. Probably 40x64 as well.

If you don't mind, I'd like to ask you a few questions.

Trusses. Why did you decide to go 4' centers and not 8? And how much was each truss?

Is your building 14' high?, that's my plan. And if so, just the framing an metal, what do you figure you have in material $$?

Not sure of I am going to do this one myself? Or just hire the framing and then do the concrete, wiring, insulation, etc myself. I suppose it all depends on cost. If a few grand in labor will expedite getting me a roof and I can do the rest later I will. But I know quotes can be all over the place.

I'm not really sure how we wound up with 4' versus 8' truss spacing. It's sort of hard to explain, but I used a builder to do the walls and roof, but I did the foundation, slab, layout etc. So, I'm not sure if it was the truss engineer who came up with the 4' spacing, or that's what my builder wanted to use. I'll have to look through my receipts to see if I can find what the trusses cost.

My building is 13ft at the eaves....which is the max my township will allow without a waiver. I wanted to go 14' but it wasn't worth the hassle of getting (another) waiver since I was already getting a couple to maintain the city water hookup, and septic system already in place (there was a house on the same location that we knocked down.

As far as framing and metal, I can probably break that out from my receipts, but that will take me a day or two. I have two 18Wx12H doors, and two 12Wx10' doors, so that might throw off the required siding numbers a bit since most folks don't go with quite so many doors. I think I paid the lumber yard around $21K for all the lumber, steel, fasteners, and the doors (insulated, steel on both sides and $7K), but I'll see if I can narrow that down some.

 

[LD1]

I actually plan on more doors

A 10w x12h, 2 9x8's, and 2 12x12 sliders plus a man door or two.

Oyher than that, too many unknowns at the moment. Gotta do some more planning and deciding. Like the trusses. If 4' oc are cheaper total even though you need twice as many, that's what I'll do.

Your building looks great.

 

[KennyG]

I think it would be cheaper to go 8 foot spacing but there are some real advantages to 4 foot spacing. Roof purlins can go flat instead of on edge and still have less chance of sag. Also, you are less likely to have a truss failure if there's a bad piece of lumber. If you are putting in a metal ceiling, the 29 gauge is rated for support only every 4 feet. With 8 foot truss spacing you should install intermediate joists. My building has 4 foot spacing and I'm glad of it.

 

[GManBart]

I actually plan on more doors

A 10w x12h, 2 9x8's, and 2 12x12 sliders plus a man door or two.

Oyher than that, too many unknowns at the moment. Gotta do some more planning and deciding. Like the trusses. If 4' oc are cheaper total even though you need twice as many, that's what I'll do.

Your building looks great.

It's hard to have too many doors! I didn't put an overhead door on the rear of the building because of the lean-to, but it does have a man door. I figured a man door on each of the front corners, and one in the middle of the back would keep me from having to walk too far regardless of where I am. Doors aren't cheap, but if you don't have a bunch it seems like whatever you need to get out is blocked by other stuff!

Now that I read KennyG's latest comment, I think my builder mentioned 4' spacing on the trusses so he could lay the purloins flat. I'll try to dig up the price of the trusses tonight.

 

[PILOON]

Few years back I did a 240 X 60 ft stable with 12 ft walls. We used metal for the ceiling, a model that was 3"wide with 3/4" square dimples. Screws were installed in the bottom of the square dimples making the ceiling seem 'screwless'. Well taped vapor barrier was installed under the metal.
We used standard scaffolding with pneumatic tires and platforms on top as our portable work platform.*
Screwing the metal ceiling over 4 ft spacing won't pose a problem (hanging) as the metal dimpling will make the sheets quite stiff once screwed in place.
The finished job was very bright and easy to light the space.
Metal is also a nice fire block.
Clients loved the finished product.

* these can be rented from most rental yards and as U know come 5' high but also they have 2.5' low sections as well so combined you have 7.5' high to work from leaving you choices to set the platforms on.
I recall we ended up with about 6" head clearance making for a super easy installation.