Pole Barn Construction tips / heating?

Slippy · Mar 3, 2003

In talking with builders, there seems to be two schools of thought on concrete around the post in the hole. Some say no, don't put concrete aroung the post, it will cause early failure. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif Others say, no a big deal, do it. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif The way I was going to do it was to dig my hole with a 16" auger at least 32" deep to get below the frost line. Next, I was going to take a bag of quikcrete (sp) and dump in the hole, and then pack it down with the end of a spud bar. Next, I set the post and back fill with dirt around it. The moisture in the ground will cause the concrete to cure, and the the post can't go anywhere because of the backfill. May put a couple of blocks to the sides to give more resitance agains up lift force, although, other than very high wind, all the natural force will be downward. I thougth about using the round concrete slabs, but after reading the above suggestions, seems like it could cause a bunch of extra work trying to level the slab so the post sits correctly. I seen others pour a bucket of water in the hole at the same time. Any thoughts on this method?

NIXON · Mar 3, 2003

slippy ,
I'd go at least 48" deep with the holes .(you'll be adding 6-12" of concrete to the bottoms of the holes) As far as dry concrete... I've done it on light structures . Carports etc....
On something heavier I believe I'd mix it with water before putting it in the holes . You could use the spud bar to compact the bottom of the holes before pouring concrete . Also after you set the poles and back fill , Tamp the holes . Just make sure not to let the poles move /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif The reason I don't like dry concrete is that when you start moving the poles around in the holes to set them ,it can move a lot of the concrete to the sides of the poles . this sort of defeats the idea of a footer in the first place /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif Also once you've poured the mixed "crete" into the hole you can smooth the top and let it set . Makes locating the poles SO much easier . Not that it's easy any way .
But look at it this way .... The more accurately the poles are set , the more accurate the building will be. Sort of like a slab or foundation ... if it's wrong, the rest of the structure will be to . Just take your time with this part of the construction . It'll pay off as you build the building . All the best, John

cowboydoc · Mar 3, 2003

I too would highly recommend 48", an absolute absolute minimum would be 36". We have never used concrete and most of the builders I know don't use concrete either. Personally I don't mind the concrete pads. If your hole is big enough we just use a long metal bar and tamp the pad down flat and straight. If you are 48" deep and nail the boards on the bottom I have never seen a problem.

NIXON · Mar 3, 2003

"We have never used concrete and most of the builders I know don't use concrete either. ".......
Probably won't hurt a thing . But, we frequently get building inspectors . The first thing on their list is the footers. So, we just pour concrete as a matter of course . Call it habit,or training by Pavlov /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif we also use truss hangers and through bolt all trusses that mate to the columns . But, I feel" better safe than sorry". When I do mine (that's right I don't have my own. I've been doing it for everyone but me /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif ) I'll go footers, straps etc... All the best , John

mrcaptainbob · Mar 3, 2003

We're purchasing a really old 'farm' house. On the property is a really old farm type barn. Needs a bit minor attention on one of the first level support walls. What I was surprised at was the gable ends construction. The 2 x stock was flat faced to the siding. The building inspector said that's the req'd method of construction. The walls below the eves are 'normal' to the siding. The gable wall is VERY flexible. It's been up for many decades, so I'm a believer. What I'd like, is to understand the 'why' of this. It would seem to be stronger if they were normal like the other walls.

Anonymous Poster · Mar 4, 2003

Pea rock or crushed gravel is the best thing. It allows the moisture to get away. Them plastic do dads would seem to keep the water confined. I'll stick with pea rock thanks. I have a new horse barn 52'x72' starting next week and I'll post as it goes. I decided to have it built when the difference was only 5k.

mikell

Anonymous Poster · Mar 4, 2003

Another thing when you run water and electric also run a air line. All my buildings will have air and so will my house and the compressor will be in the shop.

mikell

SteveBenson · Mar 4, 2003

It's nice to live in an area where the difference to have it done is only 5k. Here in Southern New England no one is building these building anymore and I'm not sure too many people remember how. The only builders offerring pole barns are Morton and Lester and their prices in this area are about 3x what I see advertised in the Lancaster Farming. When I put up my 34x48x10 pole barn I figured around here it would cost 4x to have someone else put it up (and this was just for the shell of the building not including site work). I got a qoute from Lester for 30k for the shell w/ 2 double sliders at the ends (and this was before insulation, windows and such). I bought a kit from a lumberyard down in PA and paid $400 to have it shipped up here, all for under 8k. Best $22k I ever saved. Maybe the difference is not so great for a bigger building, but around here it's like $30k just for the trouble of coming out /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif Some of those small PA crews sould come up here and set up shop. They'd make a killing. More competition is always a good thing /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif.

cowboydoc · Mar 4, 2003

Yea for the ease of how these things go up I can't believe there aren't more people putting them up for less money. Pretty much around here they take whatever the materials are and double it. Then they add on for windows, doors, etc. Do the math these guys are making alot of money. My one friends had one put up the same time as mine two years ago. They had theirs built and it cost them as much for a 40x70 to have built as it cost me to build mine which was 86x120 with a finished 15x36 office and tack room and 10 stalls. I also poured concrete in my office and a big area to work on horses and machinery. I still was less than what theirs was built.

Soundguy · Mar 4, 2003

If you are sinking wood pylons.. I doubt you will have trouble with them lifting. The whole ide behind afriction pile is that it will greatly resist an upwards force when there is also a horizontal force aplied to it.. such as in the case of high winds, etc.

I do like the idea of securing the roofing members with hangers and drilling through for bolts, etc to tie everything together. Last big windstorm we had, neighbors entire metal roof on his pole barn flew off like a kite.....mine didn't move an inch...He didn't use any strapping/etc.

Soundguy