pole barn designing 40x64ish

[BAP]

Don't forget to figure in snow load. Trusses 8' apart are too much to handle snow load. Last thing you want is to have your barn collapse because there is a winter with a lot snow.

 

[ultrarunner]

Here's a couple of pictures of the shop/barn I like that is 40 x 96

 

[sixdogs]

Some I contracted, some I hired. One was a Morton nice barn/shop and one a Walters machinery storage. I contracted barn with a sloping New England roof/wall on one side, another machinery/shop building and finally a storage/cow barn combo. All but one bigger than yours and I learned from each of them.

Two big doors, one on the end and the other a little more than halfway down on the side. 14 ft tall. Posts 7 1/2 ft on center. An overhang on the east side for QT machinery and no window in the man door. That's what five buildngs taught me but it's a subjective thing.

You can't build a barn on paper or in your mind. You have to find one you like and duplicate it with almost no changes.

Where you are is where I am and you could hire an Amish crew out of Holmes county. They do spectacular work and have built lots of barns around me.

 

[KennyG]

You mention drilling for wiring. If I was doing mine over, I would surface mount all the wiring in conduit for ease of installation and future flexibility. Of course, that might be my personal problem.

 

[LD1]

Trusses 8' apart are too much to handle snow load.

Where did you get that information?

You mention drilling for wiring. If I was doing mine over, I would surface mount all the wiring in conduit for ease of installation and future flexibility. Of course, that might be my personal problem.

Thought about surface mounting also. But the cost of metal boxes, EMT, EMT connectors, etc would cost more to wire. AND I would have to wait until the barn was done, insulated, painted, etc. Which probably wont happen right away. Just getting under roof and some power for lights and tools in the primary objective.

 

[LD1]

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Here's a couple of pictures of the shop/barn I like that is 40 x 96

Thats a sweet looking shop. Is that yours?

I dont care for the metal trusses/vaulted ceiling. Metal trusses I was pricing are about 4x's the cost of wood, and I dont like heating the extra space of the vaulted ceiling...

 

[ultrarunner]

Thats a sweet looking shop. Is that yours?

I dont care for the metal trusses/vaulted ceiling. Metal trusses I was pricing are about 4x's the cost of wood, and I dont like heating the extra space of the vaulted ceiling...

Unfortunately no... not a day goes by without thinking about the place that got away... and it's been two years.

No metal... has wood trusses and well insulated... it seldom freezes here or gets above 90... the dormers provide for natural light.

The last bay through the sliding glass door has a hoist with mezzanine and the scissor trusses provide the extra height.

It belonged to a customer of mine... one day I was out his way and saw a For Sale sign... learned he had passed away and called the Realtor and said I want it at full price AS-IS... something I never do... learned they had accepted an offer that morning that was a 100k under.

For the next 59 days I was the backup offer... been two years now and doubt I could afford it the way property went up...

One of the other things I really like is the two circular drives to move equipment/trailers around and never mud since it's all paved with 7.5" concrete with double re-bar.

 

[LD1]

Very nice place indeed.

I did some more calling today. Still waiting on some quotes bit am doubtful I will be hiring it done. Looking more towards building myself, so I started pricing some trusses...

I can get 4' oc for $129 and goe with 8' posts. I can go wit 5' oc for $144 and go with 10' post spacing. Or 8' oc for $161 and back to 8' posts.

The 8' trusses would be the cheapest but still haven't seen a good way that I like to attach purlins on end. 5' would be next. Fewer posts and fewer trusses and can still lay purlins flat. But both 5' and 4' spacing are going to require massive carriers. Which with more posts and the headers, adds about $1000-$1500 More. Which goes a long way toward figuring out how to attach 8' on edge purlins and addind nailers underneath for liner panels.

Ironically though, all of the above trusses come with 2x6 tops and bottoms. The 4' oc uses #1 lumber, the 5' ups to 2400msr, and the 8' uses msr and heavier plates. All designed for 25-5-0-5

 

[KennyG]

Thought about surface mounting also. But the cost of metal boxes, EMT, EMT connectors, etc would cost more to wire. AND I would have to wait until the barn was done, insulated, painted, etc. Which probably wont happen right away. Just getting under roof and some power for lights and tools in the primary objective.

Yeah, that's the problem. I'll tell you what I ran into and you can probably do a better job. I was backfitting an old building and I found I had a hard time getting the boxes mounted so they came out flush. It drove me crazy because I've mounted boxes in drywalled walls with no problem. I finally decided it was the unevenness of the post surfaces that resulted in the boxes being cocked at angles.

I mounted boxes on the ceiling to connect plug in 4 foot lights and cutting holes in the metal ceiling was very time consuming. By the time I was done, I wished I had either run conduit or scrapped the original boxes and run the wire into the back of surface mount boxes.

 

[EddieWalker]

The 2x6x18 GC rated is ~$16. I would only need 1. Cut down in staggering joints just to get above ground.

Something like 4'-6'-8'. Then from there up to the 14' high wall, I would need 14', 12', and 10' NON-treated 2x6's. Those cost $6.42, $7.42, and $8.98. For a total of ~$39 for a post that totals 18'...

While I'm not a fan of using three 2x6's instead of a single 6x6, I understand the concept that it's faster to build a shop with them instead of taking the time to notch the post. I also can't argue that three 2x6s that are thoroughly together and either nailed or screw tightly together to allow the glue to set up and bond them together is going to be just as strong or even stronger then a 6x6 post.


But the idea of using short lengths of 2x6s just doesn't come close. Instead of maximizing the strength of the lumber, you are now creating multiple weak points. There is no amount of savings that justifies doing something like this. For $15 more you can have a solid treated 6x6 is money well spent.

Eddie