Mowing possible belly mower problem

[at_obuk]

I haven't had the guts yet to take off my MMM. I have read other posts like this in the past. Seems to be one of the few defects in the BX23. However I'm going to have to do it soon to put the snow blower on. Not looking forward to it. I'm going to keep an eye on this line, see if more ideas come up. Just don't like the idea of using a mallet of any sort.
Dealer is coming to deliver the SB so I'll also ask him.

Good Luck

Eric

 

[paparammer]

The MMM is a pain to me also. Although I haven't had to use a mallet on the front end, it does come out of the fulcrum points more often than not and is very exasperating trying to get it to stay put deep enough in so that I can get it to hook up. A rubber mallet would probably be a much simpler solution. It's probably only the thickness of the coat of paint causing the problem so I expect it will improve with time.

With regard to the driveshaft, that's even more of a pain since it's keyed to only go on in one position. I've found the easiest way is to first take the rear detachable portion of the driveshaft and fumble with the PTO to figure out which way it needs to be aligned and then connect the shaft together and turn it to the needed rotation and try to connect it. Note the "try". Even then it seems the collar will pop just as it starts to slide on more often than not. It's not something I look forward to.

 

[surfran]

I haven't given this much thought until this post, but I have noticed that some times mine is easy and others difficult. I don't do it that often so I haven't used a specific sequence to date. But as I sit here and think about it, I think I know the difference for me when it's hard and when it's easy (well it's never easy, but easier /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif)

Like many if I have the loader on my BX1800 I will usually use it to lift the front end off the ground to install/remove the MMM.

I have found that if I do this and hook up the rear lift points then try to hook up the front (with front in the air still) that it is much more difficult to attach the unit.

I believe this to be because I am lifting the entire deck against the back attachment points as well as lifting it higher because the front end is further off the ground. (This is the hard way)


I believe the easiest way is to lower the front end back down if using the loader (once the deck in underneath of course). Next connect the front end, then connect the rear lift points, then connect the drive shaft.

In this order, when connecting the front end, you are only lifting 1/2 of the deck as the rear is definitely on the ground. I would try this method to see if it fixes your problem.

I have mixed feelings on using the loader, it definitely makes it easier to slide deck in and out, but gets in the way when attaching the front unless you start it up another time to lift it totally overhead.......so many choices /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Good luck and hope it's not something seriously wrong.

 

[kevinj]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( that's even more of a pain since it's keyed to only go on in one position. I've found the easiest way is to first take the rear detachable portion of the driveshaft and fumble with the PTO )</font>

I assemble the shaft the push the deck under the tractor.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( it does come out of the fulcrum points more often than not)</font>

This can only happen if the pivot shaft is not back into the front frame all the way. It may take a tap if it fits tight.

 

[Junkman]

I have learned that the hoe is the last thing to come off when dealing with the MMM. I raise the front end with the loader and then put down the outriggers to get the rear up in the air. Slide the mower under the machine or remove from under the machine and then put the machine back down. If I am installing it, I find that a little nudge either way will get everything aligned. While it is up in the air, I usually will get the drive shaft aligned and installed. It takes lowering the outriggers slightly to do this. I can reach everything much easier this way.

 

[bam]

That's a good idea. I always use the loader to lift the front end, but never thought of leaving the bh on to raise the rear.

As far as the mallet is concern, I still believe if everything is aligned properly by the dealer and you have the MMM center properly during the re-install, it should go on smoothly.

 

[Junkman]

Alignment has nothing to do with the drive shaft going on smoothly. That is completely independent of any alignment of the mower deck. The only alignment adjustments on the deck are at the front bracket that swivels upward and locks. The rear brackets are only for up and down adjustments. I believe that the tolerances in the spline of the drive shaft are too close for it to fit on easily. If it goes on easy, then it will come off easy, which Kubota doesn't want to happen by accident.

 

[paparammer]

<font color="blue"> </font> This can only happen if the pivot shaft is not back into the front frame all the way. It may take a tap if it fits tight. <font color="black"> </font>

I wish that were so. The problem is that, even though the shaft is initially fully into the slot in the frame, the fit is so tight on the sides that in effect it pivots on a point within the side metal to metal contact rather than at the bar in the rear.

 

[bam]

Are you using a mallet for the pto? /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

I believe the original question was: use a plastic mallet to force the bar into position in the fulcrum area. My alignment comment was addressing this issue.

 

[kevinj]

I can see your point but if it is seated back and down in the pocket when you pull the mower link tight it should pull the lock bar deeper into the tractor mount. If it is so tight you can't rotate it at all without it poping off the tractor then I would say one of the ears on the tractor frame may be bent or the lock made wrong.