Possible Fuel Pump???

[CubMon]

Tony,

Sorry, I'm speaking of a rotary injection pump assembly, not a cam lobe driven pump. Yes, they are already 'timed' using shims....

Volvo MD series (1,2 & 3) sailboat auxiliary diesels used that type pump with a flyball governor....

Thanks

 

[MichiganIron]

You can check if it is the injection pump by removing the side cover under the injection pump. It's a little tough to see, but look up under the pump and you will see a pin that rides against the governor lever. You should be able to move the pin freely back and forth. If the pin is jammed, you have a rack problem, and are stuck in the off position. Do not try to loosen the rack up and start the tractor, which you may be able to do. The rack could stick in the on position next time.

Follow the steps described and make sure you don't drop the plastic solenoid stem guide into the gear case when you remove the stop solenoid. It is a white plastic shield that covers the solenoid stem. You will also remove the idle return spring housing opposite the stop solenoid. Assure the stem of the injector pump rack is aligned with the slot in the case, and pull the pump straight up. If it is a injector rack problem, you may need to reach through the side cover under the injection pump and move the pin with a screwdriver.

Other than that, you will need to remove the intake manifold to remove the pump. You may want new gaskets on hand for the covers at the injection pump and the intake manifold. When you remove the pump, you will notice the shims under the pump. Leave the factory shims in place to preserve the timing.

 

[cnorth]

LaVoie- Thank you for that document. It makes everything being explained much clearer.

Michiganiron- So you are saying that if that pin is stuck, that is how I will know for sure that the problem is the pump? The side cover you say to remove is the oil flange cover, right? Also, is there any chance I could replace parts (such as the pin that might be stuck) instead of the entire unit?

What I'm fighting with now is this:
I could replace the unit myself and I know the cost will be around $800.

Or I could have it towed to the place where I bought it for $150+$800+$Labor unless they can talk Kioti into helping me out on the cost. With only 190 hrs. and the warranty just running out in May 2010, I would like to think my chances are good they will help me. The only drawback is they do not sell Kioti anymore and I question what kind of relationship they have with Kioti to work out a deal.

Or I have to take it almost 2 hrs to the nearest Kioti dealer and take my chances with the $800+$Labor possibly offset with any help that we get from Kioti.

I guess my question is for the dealers (or any owners who have dealt with this) on the forum; do I have decent odds at getting help from Kioti under these circumstances or would I be better off eating the $800 and not taking the chance of travel costs, parts, and labor. I also called Kioti directly, but they only work with dealers. By the way, dealers, I still spend plenty of money buying little odds and ends (filters, sway bars, etc.), so they still get my business.

 

[sweettractors]

That is a tough decision to make. The selling dealer may not be able to help, the other dealer should help, but, you did not buy the unit from him and why should he fudge on the warranty or replace it yourself and you may still have the same old problem. Here in Kentucky, that is called, "being between a rock and a hard place". Maybe the Kioti dealers on this forum can give advice and make sure that you really need that pump? Ken Sweet

 

[cnorth]

This is directed at what MichiganIron suggested (but please, anyone that knows speak up!). I pulled the cover off that includes the oil filler. Looking directly in, the first thing I see is a L-shaped lever turned 90 deg. clockwise with two tiny springs connected to it. Behind that is what I think is the pin you were talking about. It appears to be about 1/8" in dia. and sitting in a slot (almost like the action of a semi-auto shotgun). Is this the pin that should move? If so, it does not.

 

[CubMon]

Where'd he go?

The Volvo marine engines that have the same 'set in' injection pump have a similar arrangement for the governor - that is; a round rod with gear teeth like a rack that rotate the injection volume 'valve' on each injector pump piston. That rack is directly controlled by a flyweight governor with associated keeper springs. I guess they are all very similar...Sorry that I cannot be more specific to your engine...Maybe the expert will return soon to help you.

 

[LaVoie Equipment]

cnorth:

The cover with the pin Michigan was talking about is behind the Oil Fill Cover. The drawing (2nd page #7 & #8) - I sent you is not showing the pin but it is behind the Oil Fill cover. The engine front cover does not have to be removed.

Sorry I didn't get to you yesterday.

Tony

 

[KiotiDave]

Hi Cnorth,
Check and see if you have a business in your area that reconditions injectors and injector pumps. (Diesel injection service) We send out our pumps and they come back like new for 1/2 price. We do this all the time for customers that are out of warranty. They are a bosch type pump and parts for the rack are readily available in our area. We have 2 in the shop right now.
If you are mechanically inclined you should have no problem following the instructions the guys have sent you.
Good Luck,
Dave G.
KiotiDave

 

[MichiganIron]

The cover we are referring to is the small side cover below the injector pump. The pin is the small diameter pin against the governor lever. If you can't move the pin by hand, the rack is probably failed. You don't have to remove the front cover or anything else to check the injector rack.

If the rack is failed, contact your dealer and let them know what's going on.

 

[sweettractors]

Is this a common problem on that injector pump? Is Kioti aware of the low hours that these failures are occurring? We were a Kioti dealer for several years and I don't recall ever having this problem. Ken Sweet