kco
Veteran Member
Assuming it shears while digging deeper it should back out OK with the new bolt, similar to backing out a wood auger bit.
Post hole auger, What did i get?
- Thread starter Indygunworks
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Assuming it shears while digging deeper it should back out OK with the new bolt, similar to backing out a wood auger bit.
boggen
Elite Member
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- SSTT (Sideways Snake Tain Tractor) and STB (sideways train box) tractor, dirt harvester
personally rather have auger bit come off from the gear box. vs the PTO shaft coming un done on me and flopping around and hitting me.
shear bolt should be sized to what ever is weaker (tractor or implement) and in majority of cases, you want to protect tractor first, and in that, sized to the tractor HP at the PTO.
example 20HP at PTO of tractor, with a PHD with gear box rated for max 50HP. tractor is lower number so size to that.
example someone with a CAT2 hitch (big old 60HP at PTO shaft), and using a PHD with a gear box rated for max 45HP. gear box on PHD is lower number and shear bolt is sized to that.
google "shear bolt strength chart" should bring back websites to double check shear bolt sizing.
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the very bottom "point" on the auger. looks abit worn down.
and what really looks worn down is the "meh don't know what to call them" the teeth on the wider outer edge.
while the point ya want sharp, i can get held up easily with sharp point, and dull teeth on the wider outer edges. in dry compacted dirt (more so dry clay). a dull point, and sharp outer teeth, more likely to keep ya going. having both sharp ya is a good thing. but if cash is tight would choose the wider outer edge teeth first.
augar bits are based on output shaft size of the gear box. you may end finding a "bushing" or like on the auger shaft and gear box shaft. no real biggy there, just grab diameter of the PTO shaft, and auger shaft, and you should find what ever ya need. though i doubt ya going to need any extensions or like. only thing ya might need is a new or sharped up end bit, and/or wider outer edge teeth. unbolt them and take with ya to local ag store or tractor dealer and they should be able to set ya up with something.
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double check PTO shaft length. it maybe to short (raising the PHD up), or it may be to long (when it is going down into the ground) make sure pto shaft does not bottom out on itself.
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looks like it has been seating for some time, grease up the U joints, and double check gear oil in the gear box for it.
ya most likely going to need to pull pto shaft apart or almost apart, and grease it down (grease it then wipe rag down it) and slide it back together. and then attach to tractor and raise it up/down a few times and see if you need to re-grease the PTO shaft. the pto shaft may want to stick on ya. until ya get some the rust worn down and the grease worked in. you may have to come up with an invented idea of how to pull PTO shaft apart if it is rusted together.
--for me, it took a couple hours running PHD (digging holes), and greasing the PTO shaft each time, before the PTO shaft started sliding smoothly vs sticking and wanting to jamb up on me. once the PTO shaft started to slide easily, a lot of the "vibration" went away from the PTO shaft as i used it. but before that it would vibrate and wobble like a guitar string.
shear bolt should be sized to what ever is weaker (tractor or implement) and in majority of cases, you want to protect tractor first, and in that, sized to the tractor HP at the PTO.
example 20HP at PTO of tractor, with a PHD with gear box rated for max 50HP. tractor is lower number so size to that.
example someone with a CAT2 hitch (big old 60HP at PTO shaft), and using a PHD with a gear box rated for max 45HP. gear box on PHD is lower number and shear bolt is sized to that.
google "shear bolt strength chart" should bring back websites to double check shear bolt sizing.
==============
the very bottom "point" on the auger. looks abit worn down.
and what really looks worn down is the "meh don't know what to call them" the teeth on the wider outer edge.
while the point ya want sharp, i can get held up easily with sharp point, and dull teeth on the wider outer edges. in dry compacted dirt (more so dry clay). a dull point, and sharp outer teeth, more likely to keep ya going. having both sharp ya is a good thing. but if cash is tight would choose the wider outer edge teeth first.
augar bits are based on output shaft size of the gear box. you may end finding a "bushing" or like on the auger shaft and gear box shaft. no real biggy there, just grab diameter of the PTO shaft, and auger shaft, and you should find what ever ya need. though i doubt ya going to need any extensions or like. only thing ya might need is a new or sharped up end bit, and/or wider outer edge teeth. unbolt them and take with ya to local ag store or tractor dealer and they should be able to set ya up with something.
===========
double check PTO shaft length. it maybe to short (raising the PHD up), or it may be to long (when it is going down into the ground) make sure pto shaft does not bottom out on itself.
===========
looks like it has been seating for some time, grease up the U joints, and double check gear oil in the gear box for it.
ya most likely going to need to pull pto shaft apart or almost apart, and grease it down (grease it then wipe rag down it) and slide it back together. and then attach to tractor and raise it up/down a few times and see if you need to re-grease the PTO shaft. the pto shaft may want to stick on ya. until ya get some the rust worn down and the grease worked in. you may have to come up with an invented idea of how to pull PTO shaft apart if it is rusted together.
--for me, it took a couple hours running PHD (digging holes), and greasing the PTO shaft each time, before the PTO shaft started sliding smoothly vs sticking and wanting to jamb up on me. once the PTO shaft started to slide easily, a lot of the "vibration" went away from the PTO shaft as i used it. but before that it would vibrate and wobble like a guitar string.
RPW
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2009
- Messages
- 1,105
Yep, had it happen to me the other weekend. First the shearbolt on the shaft then after that on the augur. Had to get the BH to dig down beside the bit to get it unstuck. Sometimes I hate clay soil.
OP
Indygunworks
Silver Member
Got some work done on it today... The oil was clean and full, it does not appear to be leaking. I got the bent auger edge corrected, and sharpened both cutting teeth and the tip. I had to use a rosebud on the oxy torch to get the auger blade bent back as close as I could, and quenched it as quick as I could get water on it, so hopefully I didn't soften it up to much. Picked up 8 grade 5 3/8x3 inch bolts and nuts for the shear bolts. My input shaft has a groove, but has a spring loaded locking pin on it that fits in the groove, so no need for a set screw. Pretty nice set up really as I can store the shaft indoors and that's the part I need to protect from rust the most.
I did have to heat the PTO shaft up REALLY hot, and slam it with the truck many dozen times... then we put some SOLID pressure on it w/ the truck and beat it with a hammer, sprayed it with PB blaster, and heated it some more... Once it game free I cleaned up as best I could and greased the crap out of it.
Is it worth the 40 bucks to pick up one of these?
I did have to heat the PTO shaft up REALLY hot, and slam it with the truck many dozen times... then we put some SOLID pressure on it w/ the truck and beat it with a hammer, sprayed it with PB blaster, and heated it some more... Once it game free I cleaned up as best I could and greased the crap out of it.
Is it worth the 40 bucks to pick up one of these?
bullbreaker
Elite Member
Is it worth the 40 bucks to pick up one of these? IMO yes considering the PHD was giving to you. However I would look in CL adds for whole auger units before I bought. A new 9" complete is probably $140 and a 12" $160 plus. Sometimes the big box stores run specials and augers come down in prices. Just some more thoughts. Thanks for update ! :thumbsup:
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Indygunworks
Silver Member
thinking about it... the tip is 40 bucks, and I already have an auger that I cannot get easy replacement teeth for. SOOOO I think I am going to try it the way it is. If it works them I am money ahead, and if it doesn't and I would have bought the tip anyways, then that 40 can go towards a new auger which would then only cost me 110 bucks since I didn't spend the 40 I would have otherwise. Ill get it painted up tomorrow while I am at the firehouse, and hopefully get to test it out sometime this week.
Do you have any idea where I can find pictures of the original? I bought ford red enamel from TSC and one of the hand held sprayer attachements, but I have a can of black as well. I am thinking about painting the auger itself black and everything else red because that seems to be the norm these days.
Do you have any idea where I can find pictures of the original? I bought ford red enamel from TSC and one of the hand held sprayer attachements, but I have a can of black as well. I am thinking about painting the auger itself black and everything else red because that seems to be the norm these days.
OP
Indygunworks
Silver Member
Also, I think your auger and mine are different. my "spirals" continue past the tube in the middle, yours stops flush at the bottom and has the triangle reinforcement added that I see from the augers at TSC... I wonder if yours is actually a newer auger added to the older digger?
boggen
Elite Member
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2011
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- 3,789
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- SSTT (Sideways Snake Tain Tractor) and STB (sideways train box) tractor, dirt harvester
i would say save your 40 for a new PHD if it came down to it. and put work into the PTO shaft to get it operating smoothly.
as far as painting *shrugs* no really worth painting the auger, a couple hours digging holes and it will shine up the metal and take all the paint off of it.
in all thought, i would paint some strips on the upper portion of the shaft going down to the auger. so you can be setting on tractor and say hey! i am 3 feet down... hey i am 4 feet down. vs pulling PHD up and out and putting a measuring tape down the hole. the upper shaft should hold paint and not get scrapped off.
--measure from the wider outer edge teeth up.... the central smaller bit on the bottom does not count.
to note it. when ya dig holes and put a post down were you want it x height out of the ground. "you buy long" ya drill hole, put post in and put dirt back in around it. and then you cut the post or pipe down to wanted height. the strips are more of a quick check. some holes going to be deeper some shallower than others. just how it is.
as far as painting *shrugs* no really worth painting the auger, a couple hours digging holes and it will shine up the metal and take all the paint off of it.
in all thought, i would paint some strips on the upper portion of the shaft going down to the auger. so you can be setting on tractor and say hey! i am 3 feet down... hey i am 4 feet down. vs pulling PHD up and out and putting a measuring tape down the hole. the upper shaft should hold paint and not get scrapped off.
--measure from the wider outer edge teeth up.... the central smaller bit on the bottom does not count.
to note it. when ya dig holes and put a post down were you want it x height out of the ground. "you buy long" ya drill hole, put post in and put dirt back in around it. and then you cut the post or pipe down to wanted height. the strips are more of a quick check. some holes going to be deeper some shallower than others. just how it is.
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Indygunworks
Silver Member
I already have the PTO shaft as close to 100 percent as I believe its going to get. I am going to store this thing outside, so it needs paint otherwise it will be worthless in just a few years. I have few really old implements and all of them are going to get wire wheeled and painted at some point. It just so happens that this was very easy to work on and the place I was messing with it had all the tools to get it cleaned up so I went ahead and sanded the rust off. With the amount of time I have getting to this point it would be silly not to paint everything.
OP
Indygunworks
Silver Member
Mostly painted... I am using tractor/implement paint from TSC. I wish I would have used rustoleum painters touch instead. That stuff fills in pits self levels and goes on one coat MUCH thicker. This stuff is produding a TON of overspray and is going on really thing. Wont use the stuff again. Have to let it dry, flip a few of the pieces over and paint the bottoms and its ready to be tested out.
