Power Beyond Kit for 790?

[RobS]

Something I discovered with my 790/ #70 loader, it has metal wedges which shimes the loader into the frame mount. The left wedge came loose, allowing the loader to pop off the mounting bracket (as I was hauling top soil). I drove wedge down and tightened it up, but, while using the loader, can see that its getting play in it again. I thought about laying a few beads of weld across the wedge, building it up, before driving it back in, tighting it down. Funny thing is, the wedge doesn't appear worn, I can't figure out why it keeps becoming loose! Anyone have any ideas? I like the #70 loader for what I do with it, but, the few times I've used it for heavier work, it seems to flex alot Ron L. (New Park Pa)

Hi Ron,

I too, have a 70 loader on my 790 with the same wedges. I have tightened them occasionally (not even once a year) and I recall the manual recommends that. I think once they are adjusted they're good for life, shouldn't require "driving" in. I can't imagine why the bolts back out but a little locktite ought to do the trick. If you have the manual, it does specify the adjustment procedure.

 

[Phineas7]

Let us know how you make out with the grapple. I have 790 I bought in 2000, with FEL. I mainly use it for brush clean up, it is difficult at times to keep a load of brush on the bucket, usually ends up stacked up on the loader frame and I hate that...I've seen ad's for the grapple attachment. How permanant is the grapple mount? Can you easily remove/replace? I have power beyond.

I don't do a lot of brush work and I know I could never justify a full grapple system. I'm thinking that a toothbar (will probably get next week) and an ad-on grapple would be great the work you describe, plus be nice for bucking logs for cutting. I believe part of the grapple will be permenantly on the bucket, and that it would be easy to use removable pins on the 3 hinge points and a quick release header like Mech and make adding the grapple a 3 minute job.

 

[RobS]

All this grapple talk got me thinking... Anyone ever seen/heard of a fixed grapple? Kind of like a backhoe thumb, would mount to the loader arms. Not as versatile for sure, but a lot less money and specifically for the #70 loader, a lot less weight to eat into the capacity.

 

[rleard]

Hi Rob, Ill give the lock tight a try, hopefully something I theres nothing bent which is causing the wedge to become loose.
Also, have any of you guys installed block heaters on the 790? I know they make one which attaches into left side on block, someone was telling me it's easier to place a magnetic heater (temporary) on oil pan. I don't necessarly have difficulty starting my tractor in cold weather, but, seems if the oil or antifreeze were heated, would create less wear/tear on initial startup.

Ron L.

 

[Mech]

My dealer installed a block heater when I bought mine. I've read here that getting the freeze plug out is sometimes difficult and you have to drain the anti-freeze. I keep mine plugged in almost all the time, certainly all winter. It starts very hard w/o it, starts with a turn of the key when it is plugged in.

 

[charlieperry]

I'm looking to hook a log splitter to my 790. I do not need to be using the loader when I am using the splitter, is there not a way to bypass the control valve for the loader (put a "T" in it with a valve to shut off fluid going to the loader) and have this go directly to my splitter?

If I purchase the auxiliary valve setup, what is the realistic cost of that. I have hoses from my splitter, may need some adapters and such.

Thanks

 

[Mech]

The simpliest way is the Power Beyond kit. Anything you connect to the loader lines won't have flow unless the loader valve is actuated. I think my 3 spool valve was between $100 and $200.

 

[kennyd]

I'm looking to hook a log splitter to my 790. I do not need to be using the loader when I am using the splitter, is there not a way to bypass the control valve for the loader (put a "T" in it with a valve to shut off fluid going to the loader) and have this go directly to my splitter?

If I purchase the auxiliary valve setup, what is the realistic cost of that. I have hoses from my splitter, may need some adapters and such.

Thanks

Welcome to TBN

If all you want is to run a logsplitter, then you need the PowerBeyond kit for your tractor. It will cost about $250 from JD, and you could install it yourself in a couple hours.

 

[Barely Smokin']

I have a log splitter for my 790 and I just connect it where the tilt/curl hydraulics connect for the FEL. I lock the control level so it's limited to one axis movement, then run a ratchet strap from the control lever across the seat to the handle on the left hand side of the tractor. OK, not the most glorious set-up ever but it works just fine and costs basically nothing.

For brush, I've thought about a grapple for the FEL but I've found my pallet forks work just great for brush. In fact, right now I have a line of brush and trees that I cut up into pile about 100 feet long and 5 feet high. I cut the thicker trees (up to 12" diameter) to about 6 feet long and the smaller saplings I'll leave up to 20 feet in length. Then, I just ease into the pile with the pallet forks on the ground and start picking up sections at a time. It takes a little work and forethought to arrange the pile, and I guess you can't extract brush from a pile with straight forks, but IMO pallet forks work great for brush. You'd be surprised at how well the pile stays together when you pick it up and how little is left on the ground.

I find pallet forks to be one of my most useful attachments. Once you get them, you can palletize nearly all your raw material---pavers, brick, lumber, other attachments...really useful.

 

[glob]

I have the same problem with my wedges letting the loader bracket pop out on both sides of my 790 tractor with jd 70 loader what did you do to fix this problem?? thanks, glob