Power source for electric fence charger

[TedLaRue]

I've searched the archives and read a bunch of threads about electric fences, but I would like this thread to be limited to the power source (excluding how many wires, what type of wire or poly-wire/tape, importance of grounding, etc.).

To power an electric fence charger I know of three options:
1) 120VAC house power
2) 12VDC battery
3) Solar panel units

I would like to hear others discuss advantages and/or disadvantages to each of those power sources assuming the fence is well grounded and uses the best type of wire or poly-wire/tape.

I've used 120VAC and 12VDC but I won't relate my experiences yet because I want to see if others have had similar experiences.

I've not used a solar panel unit partly for fear that the pretty expensive unit could be stolen or trashed, and partly because I didn't know how well the battery held up or how much it cost to replace it.

So...what's your experience/preference and why?

 

[MicroPilot]

I know this is going to be off topic according to the OP's request, but I've used all three power sources for fencing horses, and it really doesn't matter that much. The battery sources are generally only a few hundred to one thousand volts, where the 120V units can produce tens of thousands of volts. But to an animal a shock is a shock. Once the animals get zapped, usually no more than twice, they stay away from the fence lines.


The most important thing for a reliable electric fence is a good ground, and keep the weeds outa the fence.

 

[texasjohn]

I use one 110 volt, high impedence, high voltage fence charger rated for 100+miles of fence for 200 acres.

Even with surge protection AND lightening protection AND good grounding, the charger gets knocked out by lightening about every two years. I've located a fellow who repairs the circuit boards and keep several around. When one goes out, I replace the board. About half the time the problem gets into the unit from the 110 plug and the other half from the fence itself.

My opinion, neither battery nor solar power (really battery) units could maintain a sufficient charge on the fence in my situation.

My recommendation, buy two identical high impedence units, use 110 power. Use one to back up the other when it fails.

 

[MossRoad]

I use a battery powered unit that has a solar charger for the battery. It is fine for little garden invading critters, but my guess is large animals like horses or cattle would just charge (pun intended) through it.

 

[TedLaRue]

Thanks for the replies.

I've encountered advantages and disadvantages with both battery and 120VAC powered units.

The 120VAC units must (obviously) be located near a 120VAC source. And if there's any kind of short from the fence to ground (even wet weeds), I get a clicking on the phone line. I could tell when I had such a short by the reduction in the speed of my dial-up internet connection. I also had a 120VAC unit die probably because of lightning. I don't know if battery operated units are as vulnerable to lightning as the 120VAC units are. This quote from TexasJohn

About half the time the problem gets into the unit from the 110 plug and the other half from the fence itself.

suggests that battery operated units might be less prone to lightning damage.

With the battery operated units (without a solar charger), the batteries would run down quickly if there was a short (like the fence wire touching a T-post or a lot of wet weeds touching the wire). I've also had problems keeping batteries charged. I think the usual cheapo lawn/garden tractor batteries (about $20) shouldn't be allowed to run completely down. But the marine type "deep cycle" batteries are pretty expensive (around $60). A good battery fully charged will keep the fence going for a couple of months, but if there's a short, the battery runs down quickly.

The battery operated chargers I use are Parmak brand rated for "25 miles", and they deliver plenty of voltage (as much as the 120VAC Parmak units rated for "25 miles").

 

[QRTRHRS]

I had one smaller area that I powered with a solar charger. I think I got nearly six years out of the original battery. Given a choice, I would use 110 but depending on your layout, isolating a section here and there with a solar charger may work.

Grounding is ever important no matter the system. Three rods at the charger for a big system is a must. For really long ground returns, make one fence line a ground with periodic ground rods here and there around the system.

My previous farm was bad for lightning. On that farm, I did have the third row of four set up as a ground. I had those large shunt switches on both ground and positive which I would throw if a storm came through and I was home. Never lost a charger with the system grounded but that may have been just luck because lightning can easily jump across a switch.

 

[TedLaRue]

QRTRHRS,

Thanks, this is the kind of information I'm seeking.

After your six years of using the solar/battery unit, were you able to replace the battery and keep on using it? And if so, was it an expensive special battery, or some generic kind?

 

[WTA]

I think a very well designed ground system is a lot more important than the charger. Any charger will work just fine almost but if you can't complete the circuit back to the charger when an animal gets in the wire then they are worthless. We have long dry spells here very often so I had to improvise. On wire on every fence line is a direct line back to the ground wire on the charger. There is also one 15 foot copper rod driven into the ground on every one of those lines. I have 4 15 foot copper ground rods connected up behind the barn near the charger. Even with all that it doesn't always work when the ground gets really dry unless they touch the hot and ground wire together. That hurts! I saw my kid get bit by it one night and sparks jumped between his teeth. It burns the weeds down too quite effectively. All I have is a regular old gallagher plug in charger. Nothing fancy.

 

[MossRoad]

On my solar charged system, the original battery lasted at least 5 years. I went to Rural King this spring and bought a replacement. It was underr $20.00 and about 1.5" square by 5" long. Like I mentioned before, mine is a small unit. But they had all different size batteries for all different size units.

 

[texasjohn]

Ted, you haven't indicated the purpose of your fence nor the total area you are seeking to enclose. This makes a difference. I have cattle

What folks have said about ground rods, ground wires, etc. is all true. Particularly in a drought situation, which I am in right now.

I believe battery driven chargers are for small areas

I wouldn't touch a weed burner because of fire risk

I've got 4 of the 25 mile chargers... high intensity...they peter out when used on lots of fence... particularly with a weed load. I no longer use them, they were my education re fence chargers.

Only thing satisfactory for a large area, large animals and large weed load is a high intensity, high voltage charger.... 100 miles rated. This kind of charger punches the charge thru the weeds and keeps going.

Note that I have not mentioned brand, I don't think that matters. What matters is the number of Joules the charger can supply... read those numbers and you will understand how powerful that particular charger is. More is better.

 

[randy41]

i use a car battery and charge it once a week. it powers a 150' fence around my chickens all year round and also a 2000' fence around my garden that keeps the deer out. during the winter the battery is not so good since those kinds of batteries put out less when its cold out but the local predators surely know this fence by now and avoid it. if I had a more critical fencing situation I would probably not rely on the method I use.

 

[radman1]

AC powered gives more voltage and is best for longer distances. Also works better with weeds. Many companies will say they will actually kill back weeds and I believe that is true. Bigger shock works better with cattle. Horses will shy away with minimal shock.
I use older car batteries on the other type of charger. I could usually expect about 1 month with a fairly good battery.
No experience with solar powered but they are probably the most expensive.

Horses have great fear of electric fences. Saw a horse caught in a grass fire one time. It got cornered between the fire and electric fence. Horse stood against the fire rather than run through the fence. Horse had severe burns and was euthanized.

 

[TedLaRue]

I've located a fellow who repairs the circuit boards and keep several around. When one goes out, I replace the board.

I have a damaged charger. How'd you find this guy? Does he do mail-order?

Ted, you haven't indicated the purpose of your fence nor the total area you are seeking to enclose.

Aughhh! I know I typed a paragraph about that, but I must have accidentally deleted it before I got my original post the way I wanted it. And you're exactly right, it does matter!

I'm only fencing deer and other critters out of a garden, orchard, grapes, blueberries...about an acre and a half. So the battery powered units supply enough voltage for me - if the battery hasn't run down. The units I'm using are rated for 50 miles. The posts about horses, cattle, and all are still informative and interesting.

I wouldn't touch a weed burner because of fire risk

I saw a reference to a weed burner elsewhere. Excuse my ignorance, but exactly what makes a charger a "weed burner"? Things are pretty green here, so fire risk is minimal. Nevertheless, I'm curious.

 

[TedLaRue]

I have 4 15 foot copper ground rods connected up behind the barn...

And I also believe in the importance of grounding, but in my location the ground stays damp a foot or so under the surface, so I don't need long grounding rods. WTA, how the heck to you drive a 15' rod in the ground?! At an angle? We have to drive two 8' rods here to ground a house, and that's hard enough.

 

[TedLaRue]

On my solar charged system, the original battery lasted at least 5 years. I went to Rural King this spring and bought a replacement. It was under $20.00

Solar charged is looking more and more attractive to me. If you don't mind my asking, how much did you pay for your unit? or what brand was it? I'm probably going to get at least one of those. One area I protect is pretty far away, and I get tired of trucking that battery back and forth.

 

[TedLaRue]

i use a car battery and charge it once a week.

That's essentially what I've been doing lately except sometimes I use lawn/garden tractor batteries ($20 at big retailers). I'm trying to keep from ruining batteries by repeatedly letting them become completely discharged. The deep cycle "marine" batteries are expensive and apparently aren't readily available in the smaller sizes (size matters if you have to carry one to the charger every week, and no, I'm not going to drive my tractor over there to carry the battery back in the loader bucket!).

 

[QRTRHRS]

QRTRHRS,

Thanks, this is the kind of information I'm seeking.

After your six years of using the solar/battery unit, were you able to replace the battery and keep on using it? And if so, was it an expensive special battery, or some generic kind?

At the time I was doing electrical work for a friend who ordered the battery for me. I think it was twenty bucks or so but it did the trick. That charger was at least eight years old perhaps nine when I sold the farm.

 

[TedLaRue]

AC powered gives more voltage and is best for longer distances. Also works better with weeds. Many companies will say they will actually kill back weeds and I believe that is true.

I've seen weeds killed back by the fence, but the dead weed is still there, and at night when it's wet with dew, if it droops down onto the fence, it siphons off some of the current. If lots of weeds do this, the battery powered units will fail because the battery will go dead. That's one mark in favor of the AC units.

 

[QRTRHRS]

And I also believe in the importance of grounding, but in my location the ground stays damp a foot or so under the surface, so I don't need long grounding rods. WTA, how the heck to you drive a 15' rod in the ground?! At an angle? We have to drive two 8' rods here to ground a house, and that's hard enough.

I cannot help you with hard ground but I can make a suggestion for driving ground rods with a tool most of us with fence have on hand.

I use my T-stake pounder to put rods in. Sure beats a sledge.

 

[TedLaRue]

Note that I have not mentioned brand, I don't think that matters. What matters is the number of Joules the charger can supply... read those numbers and you will understand how powerful that particular charger is. More is better.

For big (Texas!) chargers, you may be right. But a while back I bought a cheap charger from one of the "big box" stores. I don't want to mention the store name because I shop at Lowe's a lot. That charger cost less than $30, but it didn't last long and I wasn't at all happy with it. The chargers I'm using now cost closer to $100, and the solar units I'm looking at appear to be $100+ and up.

So...does anyone care to name some brands? I'm especially interested in a solar unit now, after the posts by QRTRHRS and MossRoad.

Googling brings up names like Parmak, Parker McCrory, Fi-Shock, Dare Products, Red Snap'r, Oasis Montana, Magnum, BullDozer,...

I'm hoping to buy a solar recharged battery powered fence charger that costs less than $200, but other readers may be interested in more expensive units.

Thanks to everyone participating in this thread!