downsizingnow48
Elite Member
Look forward to photos!
Power SSQA control, manual diverter valve? Or what other options?
- Thread starter Fallon
- Start date
- Views: 10852
Project plans to live by... if you can't make it perfect, make it adjustable.
On my first version if my project (linear actuator motor is parallel to rod) i just used a couple (long nut) & allthread on one end. Made it nice & adjustable when I didn't know what I was completely doing. On the 2nd version (motor is 90 degrees to rod). I thought I had a better idea of tolerances & it was just bar stock. One of the ears on the 2nd actuators had a crack in it for a year (but worked fine) because I thought wrong.
The actuator for version 1 was rated for 100 or 200lbs (think v 2 was 500lbs). So even without the mechanical advantage of the lever arms, not a lot of force is needed. All things considered I'd recommend making your brackets weak. It will be easier to replace them than work on repairing your loader arms or other SSQA parts. I looked for the smallest diameter (also cheapest) cylinder I could find.
Got one from Baily Hydraulics on some sale a year ago according to the receipt I dug up in my Email.
CYLINDER WELDED 1 X 8 0.625 ROD MAXIM WSB 3000 PSI*$41.00
A 1" diameter cylinder has an area of about 0.8 square inches. Times 2,500psi & you get over 10x as strong as my v1 actuator and over 5x as strong as v2. Overkill by any measure. I figure the waleaker the better in that regard. That rod is thicker than the hollow tube on both actuators as well. I'd worry about making it to strong eather than not strong enough unless you can find a stupidly small cylinder.
On my linear actuators they had basically a cut in the end of the rod bar stock would fit in to attach & I used small pins through the holes in the rods to secure things. Unfortunately eyes in the end of your cylinders give you no lateral stability. But if you sandwich/clamp a bracket on either side it would give you a moderately strong connection. Probably strong enough to do the job, but weak enough to let your bracket twist before other more expensive parts.
I did have to weld a brace to turn the bar stock into a T so it wouldn't bend sideways on one of the versions.
On my first version if my project (linear actuator motor is parallel to rod) i just used a couple (long nut) & allthread on one end. Made it nice & adjustable when I didn't know what I was completely doing. On the 2nd version (motor is 90 degrees to rod). I thought I had a better idea of tolerances & it was just bar stock. One of the ears on the 2nd actuators had a crack in it for a year (but worked fine) because I thought wrong.
The actuator for version 1 was rated for 100 or 200lbs (think v 2 was 500lbs). So even without the mechanical advantage of the lever arms, not a lot of force is needed. All things considered I'd recommend making your brackets weak. It will be easier to replace them than work on repairing your loader arms or other SSQA parts. I looked for the smallest diameter (also cheapest) cylinder I could find.
Got one from Baily Hydraulics on some sale a year ago according to the receipt I dug up in my Email.
CYLINDER WELDED 1 X 8 0.625 ROD MAXIM WSB 3000 PSI*$41.00
A 1" diameter cylinder has an area of about 0.8 square inches. Times 2,500psi & you get over 10x as strong as my v1 actuator and over 5x as strong as v2. Overkill by any measure. I figure the waleaker the better in that regard. That rod is thicker than the hollow tube on both actuators as well. I'd worry about making it to strong eather than not strong enough unless you can find a stupidly small cylinder.
On my linear actuators they had basically a cut in the end of the rod bar stock would fit in to attach & I used small pins through the holes in the rods to secure things. Unfortunately eyes in the end of your cylinders give you no lateral stability. But if you sandwich/clamp a bracket on either side it would give you a moderately strong connection. Probably strong enough to do the job, but weak enough to let your bracket twist before other more expensive parts.
I did have to weld a brace to turn the bar stock into a T so it wouldn't bend sideways on one of the versions.
downsizingnow48
Elite Member
For my hydraulic ssqa I used 7/8" bore cylinders and the workport reliefs set at 1200psi which works out to about 720lbs force on the locking pins. That is much more force than is needed.
Industrial Toys
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2008
- Messages
- 16,742
- Location
- Ontario Canada
- Tractor
- Kubota R510 Wheel Loader + Cab and backhoe, JD 6200 Open Station, Cushman 6150, 4x4, ten foot 56 hp Kubota diesel hydraulic wing mower, Steiner 430 Diesel Max, Kawasaki Diesel Mule, JD 4x2 Electric Gator
I opted for the HORST SSQA conversion with hydraulic coupler on my Kubota Wheel Loader. I ALWAYS raise the loader and check to make sure I see the tips of the locking pins poking out. At one point I had even painted them yellow to make them easier to see.
jonsstihl
Veteran Member
I have double and triple checked my measurements and because I am keeping the stock handles I can actuate the cylinder manually at first to double check my measurements.
Your idea of adding a weak point is a good one. originally I was planning on extending the cylinder with a solid rod approximately the same size as the cylinder rod but now I may just use a 1/4 inch rod so that it will bend before anything breaks.
Your idea of adding a weak point is a good one. originally I was planning on extending the cylinder with a solid rod approximately the same size as the cylinder rod but now I may just use a 1/4 inch rod so that it will bend before anything breaks.
Last edited:
jonsstihl
Veteran Member
Phase 1 complete. the cylinder is modified and cycles well manually I may have to grind a little more off the brackets to give me a little more slack on the retract end of the cycle. on the extend I have about a 1/16th of slack before the ends hit the ssqa bracket
here are some pics
here are some pics
Attachments
jonsstihl
Veteran Member
I had a moment of clarity and decided to use anti splatter nozzle gel to protect the cylinder from splatter. worked like a charm. I decided against the 1/4 rod idea because I felt like it was too weak to even hold up the cylinder.
downsizingnow48
Elite Member
So looks good got the hydraulics yet?
jonsstihl
Veteran Member
yes, I have all the parts except for the hoses. But I am hoping my local hydraulic shop is reasonably prices that way I can get just the hose ends from him so I can place everything and then have the hoses made
jonsstihl
Veteran Member
here are a few pics of the setup. If I had to do it again I would probably use live swivels and come out at 90 degrees at the cylinder so the hoses would be more tucked out of the way
the shield on the cylinder is just a ABS drain pipe that has been slotted to fit. It may get upgraded to metal pipe if it breaks.
the tees on the third function QD's actually solved a problem I had because the bottom QD was so close to the cross tube it was hard to get a good grip on the outer shell when connecting.
the shield on the cylinder is just a ABS drain pipe that has been slotted to fit. It may get upgraded to metal pipe if it breaks.
the tees on the third function QD's actually solved a problem I had because the bottom QD was so close to the cross tube it was hard to get a good grip on the outer shell when connecting.