Power Steering in 90 Minutes!

   / Power Steering in 90 Minutes! #61  
Ah, I see. The rod going into the valve is maybe 3/4". It came with a swivel thing of some sort that I welded to my cut down drag arm. Sorry I'm not good with what these parts are called. I'll send myself a note to take some closeups in the next few days.
 
   / Power Steering in 90 Minutes! #62  
Mike, a picture of the valve on top of the cyl. would help. I decided to purchase the steering kit when rick has them in stock. I would have to make to many changes and it may cost even more if I use the steering valve I have. If I can locate that valve on top of the cyl. I could start this project sooner.Thanks for all your Help.
Bill
 
   / Power Steering in 90 Minutes! #63  
Fbson395, sorry it took so long but here's the picture of a close up of the valve. You can see on the left and right is the metal lines that are welded to the cylinder. I think pretty much any valve would work if you used hoses and fastened it to the cylinder somehow. You would remove the handle and attach right to the plunger.
 

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   / Power Steering in 90 Minutes! #64  
Thank you for you reply.Looks like the valve has a 5/8 or larger shaft. would have to be strong to withstand how it's used. I have my name on a list to order the parts when they are in stock. This may be the best way to get the job done correctly the first time. Thanks again.
 
   / Power Steering in 90 Minutes! #65  
Yes the shaft is about that size but it's not that size for strength. If you look closely you can see a vertical bolt going through the shaft where a larger piece slides over it. This is larger to accept threads through it so a ball joint can attach. That little bolt is about 3/16" thick and that's all that is holding the rest of the arm on. All that is happening is the steering box is pushing/pulling on the shaft which opens the valve inside. Just compressing a spring, no great strength needed.
 
   / Power Steering in 90 Minutes! #66  
Sorry it has taken so long to ans. Thanks for the information. I was going to buy all the parts and make the unit on my own, but now I'm buying the setup from Rick.The cost is about the same and it's to hard to find what is needed. The only problem is the parts are not in stock yet.I will post pictures and the progress as it comes to fruition. In your opinion should I take the Hyd. pressure from front the front loader or the rear 3 pt.
 
   / Power Steering in 90 Minutes! #67  
No worries, hopefully you will get the parts in soon. Right now I have mine powered by the output of my loader valve which is the "power beyond" port. This port runs my 3ph so I sent it to the p/s first. It works ok as is but can be annoying because I have little for p/s when using the loader but still way better than no power steering. I also notice the wheels will turn on their own now and then especially if I lift the 3ph. It can easily be stopped with your hand just a nuisance. Some people put a splitter valve before their loader valve so both always work but I don't want my loader to be slower so passed on that one. I think this summer I will replace my belt idler with a small car p/s pump with remote reservoir and get it off my hydraulics.
 
   / Power Steering in 90 Minutes! #68  
My tractor has a pump for the fel off the front of the motor and the 3pt has it's own pump on off the side of the timing injector unit. Maybe I should take power from the 3pt since it's used to lift and tilt while mostly standing still.Then I might not lose the power steering?
 
   / Power Steering in 90 Minutes! #69  
Sounds like a good plan to me. That's pretty much how the original poster of this thread did it. His loader also run off the front.
 
   / Power Steering in 90 Minutes! #70  
The link to the website for Rick Davis doesn't work anymore. Is he out of business, too? Seems anybody who made an aftermarket kit for a Kubota tractor doesn't exist anymore.
 
   / Power Steering in 90 Minutes! #71  
I recently heard Rick's brother Vern is taking over the power steering work. I do not know what his new info is but here is Rick's so you can get the new info. Please add it here for others if all goes well.

Rick Davis
Tractor Power Steering, LLC.
PO Box 1565
Detroit Lakes, MN 56502
218-849-3001
rick@tractorpowersteering.com
 
   / Power Steering in 90 Minutes! #72  
will this work with an IH 234? PastorT
 
   / Power Steering in 90 Minutes! #76  
Hello, Just discovered this thread. I have 2 Kubota L235DT tractors (love um). Since "Tractorpowersteering" is no longer viable and I cannot get the previous owner to return my call - hoping that you are still around and on this Forum..............is there a part number on your cylinder/acutator that you might share?

I too think that I'm going to have to "roll my own" and my older L235DT (w/aftmkt PS) cylinder leaks like a sieve and needs replacement.
 
   / Power Steering in 90 Minutes! #78  
I have been researching PS parts to make my own......since it's only been 5 yrs. that I've been saying I wanted to make this mod to my Mitsubishi. :thumbsup: I have watched many orbital valves on Ebay through the years and thought that was what I would eventually use. Through those Ebay searches, I saw PS control valves like this (second pic below)( Corvette Power Steering Control Valve Valves Requires Core Deposit | eBay ) I am not a car guy, but am wondering if they don't operate on the same/similar principal as the valve attached to the cylinder on KubotainNH's setup? If it does, it would be pretty easy to fabricate a system that used an inexpensive valve like that. Attached is a diagram of a similar valve used on an old Vette. Would this work? I already have an appropriate cylinder and would like to use a small PS pump w/ reservoir from a compact car with it.
 

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   / Power Steering in 90 Minutes! #80  
I would buy a used one...$40-$60. I am assuming this valve operates like the one mounted on the cylinder Rick Davis used to sell. Steering input ( from any source... drag link, pitman arm, tie rod etc.) attached to the stud on the valve directs hydraulic flow to extend/retract cylinder. Seems like you could attach a steering cylinder the same way Davis' kit does, weld a valve bracket/mount to the cylinder barrel for the valve and attach the valve control to the drag link? It appears to me these valves are very similar in how they work and that's what I'm hoping someone can confirm?

That may work if you have the space needed on the pitman arm. I don't think I would have it on mine. It's also $200 seeing you don't have a core. Maybe something like this would work? Not really sure how this one is setup though. John Deere 400 Power Steering Control Valve | eBay
 

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