Power Steering in 90 Minutes!

KubotainNH · Dec 31, 2010

Ah, I see. The rod going into the valve is maybe 3/4". It came with a swivel thing of some sort that I welded to my cut down drag arm. Sorry I'm not good with what these parts are called. I'll send myself a note to take some closeups in the next few days.

fbson395 · Dec 31, 2010

Mike, a picture of the valve on top of the cyl. would help. I decided to purchase the steering kit when rick has them in stock. I would have to make to many changes and it may cost even more if I use the steering valve I have. If I can locate that valve on top of the cyl. I could start this project sooner.Thanks for all your Help.
Bill

KubotainNH · Jan 22, 2011

Fbson395, sorry it took so long but here's the picture of a close up of the valve. You can see on the left and right is the metal lines that are welded to the cylinder. I think pretty much any valve would work if you used hoses and fastened it to the cylinder somehow. You would remove the handle and attach right to the plunger.

fbson395 · Jan 22, 2011

Thank you for you reply.Looks like the valve has a 5/8 or larger shaft. would have to be strong to withstand how it's used. I have my name on a list to order the parts when they are in stock. This may be the best way to get the job done correctly the first time. Thanks again.

KubotainNH · Jan 26, 2011

Yes the shaft is about that size but it's not that size for strength. If you look closely you can see a vertical bolt going through the shaft where a larger piece slides over it. This is larger to accept threads through it so a ball joint can attach. That little bolt is about 3/16" thick and that's all that is holding the rest of the arm on. All that is happening is the steering box is pushing/pulling on the shaft which opens the valve inside. Just compressing a spring, no great strength needed.

fbson395 · Feb 5, 2011

Sorry it has taken so long to ans. Thanks for the information. I was going to buy all the parts and make the unit on my own, but now I'm buying the setup from Rick.The cost is about the same and it's to hard to find what is needed. The only problem is the parts are not in stock yet.I will post pictures and the progress as it comes to fruition. In your opinion should I take the Hyd. pressure from front the front loader or the rear 3 pt.

KubotainNH · Feb 7, 2011

No worries, hopefully you will get the parts in soon. Right now I have mine powered by the output of my loader valve which is the "power beyond" port. This port runs my 3ph so I sent it to the p/s first. It works ok as is but can be annoying because I have little for p/s when using the loader but still way better than no power steering. I also notice the wheels will turn on their own now and then especially if I lift the 3ph. It can easily be stopped with your hand just a nuisance. Some people put a splitter valve before their loader valve so both always work but I don't want my loader to be slower so passed on that one. I think this summer I will replace my belt idler with a small car p/s pump with remote reservoir and get it off my hydraulics.

fbson395 · Feb 8, 2011

My tractor has a pump for the fel off the front of the motor and the 3pt has it's own pump on off the side of the timing injector unit. Maybe I should take power from the 3pt since it's used to lift and tilt while mostly standing still.Then I might not lose the power steering?

KubotainNH · Feb 8, 2011

Sounds like a good plan to me. That's pretty much how the original poster of this thread did it. His loader also run off the front.

AshleyBS55 · Aug 29, 2013

The link to the website for Rick Davis doesn't work anymore. Is he out of business, too? Seems anybody who made an aftermarket kit for a Kubota tractor doesn't exist anymore.