Snow Power-Trac Snowblade

[Skalini]

I tried out my snowblade for the first time and I am confused to the design. I have a crushed granite driveway at my cottage and this blade is a struggle. I understand stone always is difficult but this design is unusual. I just don't know why they have the wheel kit? Why not just a blade with springs and skid plates like every other snowplow out there.

 

[grsthegreat]

I tried out my snowblade for the first time and I am confused to the design. I have a crushed granite driveway at my cottage and this blade is a struggle. I understand stone always is difficult but this design is unusual. I just don't know why they have the wheel kit? Why not just a blade with springs and skid plates like every other snowplow out there.

i was thinking of making a set of wheels for mine for the first snows of the season, as im on gravel also. are you saying that the wheels dont work???

i thought that wheels make it work easier on grvel. Mine has simple hardened shoes and actually only removed a very minor amount of gravel....very minor considering how much road i had to do.


you have any pics???

 

[SpringHollow]

wheels should work well but I do not know their setup. The vertical angle of the blade is everything when the gravel is not frozen. Angled wrong, it will dig into the gravel.

Ken

 

[MossRoad]

I tried out my snowblade for the first time and I am confused to the design. I have a crushed granite driveway at my cottage and this blade is a struggle. I understand stone always is difficult but this design is unusual. I just don't know why they have the wheel kit? Why not just a blade with springs and skid plates like every other snowplow out there.

I like my wheels on my power angle snow blade for our PT425. You have to play with the angle left/right AND the angle of the dump/curl AND set the spacers on the wheel height to what works best for you.

I have found that if you keep the blade pefectly perpendicular to the surface you are plowing you can angle it full side to side and never get one corner to raise or dig in. If you dump/curl the blade forward or backwards from perpendicular, you will start having problems gouging one corner or the other.

So, for setup, I recommend setting the blade straight forward, then setting the dump/curl to make the blade perpendicular to the ground. Then lift it up and adjust the wheel spacers to get you the amount of clearance you want. I keep mine about an inch off the ground for the gravel areas. Once you set that, you should be good for the season. You just have to remember to return the blade to perpendicular if you change the dump/curl angle during operations. Once you get used to that, you should be good to go. :thumbsup:

 

[SpringHollow]

BTW, skids are terrible when the driveways are soft - they dig in. Once the driveway freezes, life is good.

Ken

 

[American Bulldog]

On my 1460 the rubber lip works really well with the gravel. Things are more difficult when the ground is soft, though.

 

[Skalini]

Thanks for the feedback. 100% operator error. I used the blade again this weekend and it worked perfect. I have had this 422 for two years and I am embarrased to say I didn't know it had float capabilities. Using the float with this blade works real well.

 

[MossRoad]

Thanks for the feedback. 100% operator error. I used the blade again this weekend and it worked perfect. I have had this 422 for two years and I am embarrased to say I didn't know it had float capabilities. Using the float with this blade works real well.

:laughing:
Don't be embarrassed. Any day I don't learn something new is a disappointing day. :thumbsup:

 

[Skalini]

I have been using the blade several times this winter and it works excellent.

 

[MossRoad]

My snow blade is 10 years old now and showing signs of abuse. Both bottom corners are starting to bend back. The support for the left wheel is starting to twist, which makes it difficult to get the blad flat on the ground from left angle to right angle. Time for some repairs this summer. I'll have to straighten the wheel mount. Then I'll have to straighten the corners and add a cutting edge for support. That should do it.

I'll have to say that I purchased it for I think $450 10 years ago. So, $45 bucks a year for snow removal is not a bad deal at all. :laughing: I'm sure with the repairs and beefing up I'll get many more years of service out of it for probably under a hundred bucks. :thumbsup:

 

[American Bulldog]

My 1460 with plow is beyond a doubt an awesome tool. I have been plowing 1 1/2 seasons, and there is very little wear on the rubber lip.

One thing that puzzles me is that PT sells a snow blade, but will not sell any sort of winter starting kit for the Deutz motor in the 1460. I ended up getting some glow plugs from a Deutz dealer, but all this was much more hassle than it should have been.

 

[MossRoad]

My 1460 with plow is beyond a doubt an awesome tool. I have been plowing 1 1/2 seasons, and there is very little wear on the rubber lip.

One thing that puzzles me is that PT sells a snow blade, but will not sell any sort of winter starting kit for the Deutz motor in the 1460. I ended up getting some glow plugs from a Deutz dealer, but all this was much more hassle than it should have been.

My guess about the cold weather starting kit not being available from the Power Trac factory is this...

If Power Trac would install the kit, perhaps THEY would be responsible for any warranty work associated with it VS Deutz being responsible for the warranty work.

If they just sold you the kit for you to install yourself, they would have to mark it up tremendously before they sell it to you. You are better off buying it elsewhere yourself, I would think.

 

[SpringHollow]

Yes, they will double the price plus the cost of the switches etc.

Ken

 

[Charlie_Iliff]

I think the main reason Power Trac doesn't market a glow plug or block warmer kit is that the Deutz seldom needs it. For 11 years now, I've had no trouble getting my 1845 started in weather down to 14 degrees. Below that, I can't get me started, so the Power Trac is off the hook.

 

[SpringHollow]

Yes but it is much easier on the engine when you start it with the manifold heaters - starts very easily and more smoothly in comparison.

Ken

 

[washita]

why are the modern engines so difficult to start? I have a 1936 Case tractor with a Waukesha engine that starts on the second crank (hand crank/a.k.a. arm breaker) ,also a 1969 10hp Kohler that starts on the first pull (rope start), granted both of these engines use fuel like kids drinking lemonade but they always start and run without any fuss, but my 2007 6hp Tecumseh tests my religious convictions every time I have to start it, in addition to the Power Trac testing my patience, I am tempted to install a rope start or hank crank on the Subaru if I thought it would help the starting issues (yes, I realize the parasitic drag of the hydraulic pumps hinder the cold starting capability of the engine)

 

[Gravy]

The good old ones relied on low compression, low performance, short life expectancy, high fuel consumption and toxic emissions.

But at least the freakin' things started if you gave a few sharp yanks.