prep work to silver solder braze loader hydraulic line

   / prep work to silver solder braze loader hydraulic line #31  
I have brazed many things with a brown clothes hanger. We wrecked a truck once. Bent the frame pretty bad. Got another truck. Cut old one off. Cut other frame in same place. Welded the frames together in a pasture outside Choctaw Oklahoma. With a torch and brown coat hangers. Never doubted them since.
 
   / prep work to silver solder braze loader hydraulic line
  • Thread Starter
#32  
Dry cleaners and metal clothes hangers seem to be disappearing. Our dry cleaners closed a long time ago and the building is now occupied by a pizza store.
 
   / prep work to silver solder braze loader hydraulic line
  • Thread Starter
#33  
There are just about too many types of solder calling themselves "silver solder" these days. What you want is what jewelers use. It will often be called "silver brazing" rather than soldering because getting the silver braze to flow requires that the steel get to at least a dull cherry heat. Mapp or propane won't get hot enough to flow good high temperature silver braze wire onto steel. Well, maybe they will with a master, but for use mortals we use acetylene/air or acetylene/oxy.

At that point where the steel begins to glow, the silver braze will suddenly flow everywhere on the joint in a matter of seconds. Your task is just to hold the heat exactly at that temperature while it flows. Too much and it will burn the metal and ball up. Too little and it stops flowing. If you mess up, just clean and start over Cleanliness is everything. Flux is very important. Going slow is the right way. Nothing cleans a joint better than filing to good metal and then cleaning with acetone wipes. I never grind or sand. Too many particles.

People who do a lot of silver brazing I would often clean a joint, apply flux, and then cut some pieces of silver brazing wire and stick them into the flux about where you want them to flow. Let the whole thing dry. Now begin to apply heat - not to the joint but nearby and gradually move the heat into the joint. The flux will melt first into a protective liquid glass. Sometimes it will bubble and move the silver pieces away from where you want it, but just push it back using the tip of the remaining silver brazing wire.
Keep the heat on and the silver in position....the bubbling will stop shortly and that is when you know the silver is about ready to flow. Let it flow. Overheating will cause blackening, although it is common for the edges of the flux pool to turn black as it cools. Most of the flux will simply be glassy.

If you got a good copper patch on, I would expect that to hold. I've even seen some joints on bent tubing repaired by a method of making a flexible patch with copper wire wound around the tubing bend. Do the super cleaning followed by winding a coil of #14 clean copper wire onto the steel tubing for an inch or more and then silver brazing the whole copper coil turns together and to the steel tubing.

Always go slow when adding heat and use plenty of flux. You can add flux even as it heats up.

rScotty
A good MAPP torch is about $75. An HVAC tech brazing torch is about $250 plus $170 for a B tank.

My torch is good for copper water pipe, but I doubt that I'm going to do much better at brazing this loader line without getting a better torch. For the money involved to buy a proper brazing torch, going to a welding shop may make better sense.

But I've found an issue with a gear oil leak affecting the brakes and the dealer is not being at all helpful whether the seal is even available for this 20 year old Mahindra 3525.
 
   / prep work to silver solder braze loader hydraulic line #34  
Your mapp torch should work fine, I use propane torch for jobs like this. Don’t clamp weld area in a vise it will steal your heat.
You should have no problem finding a generic seal for your tractor.
 
   / prep work to silver solder braze loader hydraulic line
  • Thread Starter
#35  
Here's the general story about the seals.

My dealer didn't even answer the phone this morning (Friday 10 am). Called a large dealer 180 miles away. The parts guy at the large dealer immediately ID'd the two seals and said that they are available to order (part no. 006500038R92). He didn't know the procedure to replace the seals, but heck, at least he answered the phone and answered my question about the seals. Besides the 180 mile trip, there's a pretty steep mountain range between us that would make transporting the tractor to that dealer harder.

I don't know if I can replace the seals myself.

This tractor has external brake discs mounted in external brake drums that are bolted to a flange on the side of the transmission housing. The brake discs stop a bull pinion shaft that extends out of the transmission housing. I found gear oil between the flange and the transmission housing which tells me there's a leak. There are two seals on the bull pinion shaft that I suspect need to be replaced, but I am not sure of how to do this. The rear tires are filled-so the tire weighs about 460lbs to remove.

Third dealer an hour away says 10-15 hours to repair, about $2,000 plus $275 transportation fee each way.
 
Last edited:
   / prep work to silver solder braze loader hydraulic line #36  
Sure you can do it, it’s just pieces and parts. I have handled way bigger tires than that by myself.
 
   / prep work to silver solder braze loader hydraulic line #37  
I have brazed many things with a brown clothes hanger. We wrecked a truck once. Bent the frame pretty bad. Got another truck. Cut old one off. Cut other frame in same place. Welded the frames together in a pasture outside Choctaw Oklahoma. With a torch and brown coat hangers. Never doubted them since.
Done the same and being proficient with a gas axe is an excellent primer for TIG welding too.
 
   / prep work to silver solder braze loader hydraulic line #38  
Done the same and being proficient with a gas axe is an excellent primer for TIG welding too.
I have never tig welded. Had people tell me I'd be good at it. Never had the opportunity.
 
   / prep work to silver solder braze loader hydraulic line #39  
I have never tig welded. Had people tell me I'd be good at it. Never had the opportunity.
If you can gas weld, you can TIG weld too. Only difference is the torch is an electric arc and you have to keep the filler rod in the gas envelope. Both are 2 handed operations. Unlike gas welding where you control the heat with knobs, you control the heat with a foot pedal or in some cases, right on the torch handle itself.

I stuck a ton of stuff together with coat hangers back in the day as well, from spring hangers to busted frames. Too bad the day of metal coat hangers is history. I don't believe the new plastic coat hangers would work...lol I still high temp braze with mine using bronze filler rod and flux.

You need to buy yourself a cheap inverter TIG machine and start fiddling with it, maybe an Everlast. I have a Lincoln Invertig myself with a water cooled torch but the water cooler is optional starting out. I run thorated tungsten electrodes.

TIG welding is actually fun but it's a slow process.
 
 
Top