Pressure Testing a BX2200

[tomnky]

I am getting ready to pressure test My BX2200 , for the many times mentioned annoyance of running warmer than it should.

My question is this: How many have actually pressure tested their system and if You have, What adapter have You ended up using to fit the radiator?

I have already talked to the Snap-On Dealer and he thinks he can can mate me with one by using the old radiator cap. I have already done the change-out of gauge and sending unit plus cleaning of the radiator, Which has had the coolant change regularly with a 50/50 mix of ethylene glycol.

Any ideas as to just what size adaptor it takes to fit these radiators?

 

[leonz]

I am getting ready to pressure test My BX2200 , for the many times mentioned annoyance of running warmer than it should.

My question is this: How many have actually pressure tested their system and if You have, What adapter have You ended up using to fit the radiator?

I have already talked to the Snap-On Dealer and he thinks he can can mate me with one by using the old radiator cap. I have already done the change-out of gauge and sending unit plus cleaning of the radiator, Which has had the coolant change regularly with a 50/50 mix of ethylene glycol.

Any ideas as to just what size adaptor it takes to fit these radiators?

You should check with the local toyota or isuzu or hyudai dealers as the radiators they use are very small. I just had my Isuzu truck radiator changed changed after 14 years and it also has a small cap and neck.

There are only 2 major radiator builders in Japan and they have a huge range of products and one of the two supplies radiators to the Kubota corporation.

Have you asked the kubota dealer near you what adapter they use?

I would find another tool dealer "mac" or "Matco" or NAPA and ask what they use for testing import cars radiators for pressure


Have you changed the themostat or removed it to boil it in a pan of water to check it for its opening temperature?

Is the v belt tight or is the radiator dirty or plugged?

Is the coolant overflow reservoir at its normal fill level when cold and hot?

Is that motor equiped with a chaff screen in front of the radiator?


leon

 

[tomnky]

Belt is tight, new thermostat as well , radiator cleaned( air and water hose). Dealer I have not asked as of yet. The tractor only has 230 hours on it as I bought it new and has not been used that much for mowing or using the front blade for snow removal.

I have not changed out the radiator hoses yet but do have new ones that I picked up last week.
From what I have read in some newsgroups Kubota is somewhat prone to head warpage and head gasket problems. I just want to make sure I don't have any deeper problems.

There are are a bunch of adapters offered for imports.

 

[dodge man]

I have a BX2350, so this might not apply to you, but when I bought mine, they talked to me about the temp gauge. They said it should climb up near the hot range but not get in it. The dealer said Kubota had a lot of complaints where people thought they were getting to hot. They did some testing with digital gauges to check the temp. and everything was O.K. When I am mowing on a really hot day, my gauge will climb pretty high but does not get in the red.

 

[mozark]

When mowing hard my BX 2350 creeps up almost to the red, I check the temp with one of those non contact thermometers and it is running about 205. Interestingly, if you remove the skirt around the engine (looks like he** when you do) it will run about 10 degrees cooler. I've looked at ways to improve the air flow without taking the skirt off, but am at a loss so far. Your BX2200 might be suffering from the same affliction.

 

[tomnky]

Mine has never made it to the red on the gauge, I have noticed that it reads less immediately after shutting it down and turning the key right back on. This makes me wonder if vibration attributes to some degree of higher levels.

I intend to get a pressure tester and make sure just what is going on. I think these units would have been better served with a higher capacity radiator though.

 

[EE_Bota]

My BX2200 with 700 hours seems to run quite cool, taking less than one quarter of the gauge span. I have wondered if this is too cool.
I runs well, so I don't worry about it.

I am not too sure what pressure testing will accomplish if the water/coolant is not actually boiling. The pressure will raise the boiling point of the fluid, but will not change it's temperature at all. I am sure you know all this, I mention it only as a thought provoker...to break loose you ideas and those of others.

My radiator really needs a good blowing out and gathers lots of dust, as does the chaff screen.

 

[kevinj]

Belt is tight, new thermostat as well , radiator cleaned( air and water hose). Dealer I have not asked as of yet. The tractor only has 230 hours on it as I bought it new and has not been used that much for mowing or using the front blade for snow removal.

I have not changed out the radiator hoses yet but do have new ones that I picked up last week.
From what I have read in some newsgroups Kubota is somewhat prone to head warpage and head gasket problems. I just want to make sure I don't have any deeper problems.

There are are a bunch of adapters offered for imports.

Have you measured the water temp or are you just going by the dash mount guage????

The only way to be sure is to check the water temp with a known good accurate guage. You may have a faulty sender or dash guage.

 

[tomnky]

Pressure testing will tell me if I have a leak , say a leaking head gasket and or a head cracked. In other words a leak within the system.

I have already replaced the thermostat , gauge, blown and cleaned the radiator,

 

[kevinj]

Pressure testing will tell me if I have a leak , say a leaking head gasket and or a head cracked. In other words a leak within the system.

I have already replaced the thermostat , gauge, blown and cleaned the radiator,

What about the sending unit?

 

[tomnky]

yes the sending unit as well.

 

[kevinj]

yes the sending unit as well.

Sounds like you have eliminated all of the obvious items.

 

[tomnky]

Well Kevin I intend to find out just what the culprit is whether it actually is a leak, and it shows no visible signs of that happening or maybe it is some other cause maybe even an underperforming water pump.

Thanks

 

[EE_Bota]

TOMNKY...thanks for clearing up that pressure testing is a good way to test for a leak. You said you were getting hot, but you did not say your were losing fluid.

In fairness to you, you asked if we knew where to get a cap that would help you pressurize the system. I do not.

Air goes places easier than water. Look in the radiator while running, and you will know if there is a path to the cylinder from the water jacket by seeing lots of bubbles, because cylinder gasses will pass through any gap faster than water will.

Pull the dipstick and look for water, or change the oil. If there is water, it came from a head problem. If there is not, there is not problem there.
If no oil in the water and no water in the oil, there is not a problem there.

If I HAD to pressure test, and could not find a cap:

If you know the fitting size of the sending unit, it should be easy enough to pressurize the system through that. Your manual should tell you the releaf pressure of the cap, etc. So pressurize to just below that.

 

[tomnky]

I have not seen any indication of coolant in the oil or oil in the coolant at all.

The unit never does get in the red on the gauge although in cold weather say 20 degrees the needle is up to the edge of the thermometer ,but it does indicate way warmer than I think it should. removing the cap while it is warm shows no signs of air bubbles either.

I guess I am one of these that has to be assured that everything is up to snuff, not to mention what the costs of repairs are today.
I just got an email from a technician that tells me they do use the Snap On tester , so I think that is the way I will go , Heck if nothing else it will be a new toy I can get by the CFO.

What concerns me a lot is the fact that several on here say that theirs does run on the cool side, Makes me think even more something is awry.

 

[jruss]

I would think that with the varience in the temp gauge readings posted here that either the gauges or sending units are faulty. I have a BX2200 and my gauge reads just above the half-way mark when mowing in 95 degree heat and right below Half in any other conditions.

The best way I have found to check water temp is with a digital thermometer. Can get one with probe to go in radiator or the non contact type of infared.

 

[tomnky]

As I said before the sending unit and gauge have been changed. I am working on getting a Fluke 63 to check the temperature.

 

[kevinj]

As I said before the sending unit and gauge have been changed. I am working on getting a Fluke 63 to check the temperature.

I realize you have replaced parts but have you ohmed the sensor in both hot and cold operation to be sure it is working correctly.

 

[tomnky]

Kevin , where will one find the resistance values that are corelated to the temperature? Wouldn't You have to have an approximate value of resistance for the temperature?

 

[kevinj]

Kevin , where will one find the resistance values that are corelated to the temperature? Wouldn't You have to have an approximate value of resistance for the temperature?

In my bx1850 manual it states:

16.1 @ 248 °F

27.4 @ 212 °F

51.9 @ 176 °F

153.0 @ 122 °F