Price Check price tc45

[dmccarty]

The spreadsheet I created for comparing the different brands and models says that the L4310 MFWD wieghed between 3,030 to 3060 pounds depending on the tranny. The 4610 MFWD, which I think is a better comparison to the TC45, was 3,180 or 3200 again depending on tranny.

The TC45 MFWD was 3,200 or 3,586(HST) depending on tranny.

And of course MY favorite, the JD 4700 MFWD was 3,467 pounds for the PowerReverser and HST tranny. I did not want HST so the higher poundage moved a few points into the JD Total Score.

I got the numbers from the brands sales brochures.

Hope this helps...
Dan McCarty

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I was digging through my desk and came across a quote on a TC45D. This is about 3 or 4 months old, 45d/hydro/MFWD/ R-4's,...$19000. -- 16LA, w/a Long 4n1 bucket bolt on edge...$6000.

 

[mikim]

I just received the following quotes from Columbus and LaGrange on the following TC45 with the extras
TC45 FWD 12/12 w/synchro shuttle shift
folding rops (optional)
the larger AG tires - filled
deluxe 3 point hitch (optional)
16 LA loader with Heavy Duty 60" bucket (optional)
and bolt on tooth bar (optional)

$20,800 and $ 21,000 even

I'm still waiting to hear from WCtractor in Brenham

I will probably order before the end of the month - and delivery doesn't matter - I'm not in a hurry.
but these prices aren't that much different than what you got from ...LM?
mfk

 

[kamarch]

dmccarty,
How significant is the hydraulic top-link in your average bag of chores. I have seen this option on K (enclosed remote hydraulic control valves), JD (open system hydraulics?), and TC (?). I am at the same cross-roads, comparing the JD 4700, TC45, and K4610. Any suggestions from the forum would be helpful if you have been there and done that!

 

[kamarch]

Mikim

Could you give me the dealer names and phone numbers, for the dealers that you have gotten quotes from on the tc45? It sounds like we are interested in the same type of set-up! Have you also looked at the JD 4700 or L4610?

 

[Bird]

kamarch, if you go to the Kubota Owning forum and check for a thread on "Hydraulic Tip 'N Tilt" you'll find a lot of information about the hydraulic top link. I recently installed the hydraulic top link and one side link on my B2710 and for both spent over $800 doing the work myself. You'd probably save a lot of work and money both by having the dealer do it to begin with, and while it's a help in hooking up any implement, if you're going to be doing much work with a blade, it's a real time and labor saver.

Bird

 

[kamarch]

Bird, thanks for the help! As far as you know, is this a common option feature that can be added to any make and tractor model?

Cheers!

 

[Bird]

<font color=blue>is this a common option feature that can be added to any make and tractor model?</font color=blue>

I'm no expert on tractor hydraulics, but it can be added to just about any of the tractors I'm familiar with. The manufacturers have kits for the purpose for some models, but not all. There are a number of ways it can be done. If the tractor has hydraulic valves and outlets at the rear, all that's needed is the cylinders and hoses. If it has a front end loader with a "power beyond" port, hoses can be run from that to a valve that is added to the tractor (whether a factory valve or an aftermarket valve). In my case, the B2710 has an optional outlet towards the rear that is capped and they have available an optional hydraulic outlet cover that I plumbed mine to.

Bird

 

[mikim]

I looked at JD $$$$$ and decided they were out of range. I got the same range of prices on JD at 2 different dealers. I only looked at Kubotas half heartedly I'm afraid - but as it turned out it wouldn't have mattered much because as soon as my money ...uh, I mean honey .. sat on the TC - the decision was made. It's so-o-o nice to have spousal support on a purchase this size. I can't believe how lucky I am concerning this. Afterall the darn thing won't get any real use for several years yet. It'll sit at the country place 3 hours from here and only get used whenever I can get there. At any rate - when I retire there - I'll have a practically brand new tractor all paid for and waiting for me.
Dealers #s - etc - I don't have right at hand - but if you'll go to newholland.com/na and search for dealers in central Texas, they're listed there. If you're in the area, you know they're small towns and only one dealer per. I still have one to hear from on a final quote - but I'm 95% certain I'll be buying from Kleiber in LaGrange. They were real helpful - spent a lot of time with me - their operation looks and feels professional - and I really like the attitude they've shown in working with me. If you contact them - talk to David or David (yeah there's 2 of 'em) One is David Kleiber and the other is a fella ya need a ladder to see eye to eye with. Tell 'em I sent ya - maybe I can get some $$ knocked off mine.
mfk

 

[dmccarty]

kamarch,

Most of my use over the last few months has been with the FEL, heck I'm ALWAYS using the FEL, and the backhoe. I've been trying to get the backhoe work to a certain point so I can use the box blade. So I have not been using the box blade and hince the top link lately.

BUT, when I'm using the box blade the top link is essential. The two go hand in hand. I really am glad I just got the top link, it was around $300 for heavy duty version, instead of trying to adjust the top link by hand. I was able to get the portion of my road that is owned soley by me regraded after it had been rutted up by a logging operation. The part of the road that is commonly owned I'll work on in the next month or so. Its been rutted up by the same logging operation but most of the damage has been due to construction traffic for a friends house. It really is far worse than the timber trucks.

For $300 the toplink was a most buy and completely required. Not having gotten one would have been a mistake for all of the box blade work I have to do. I have only put 16-20 hours on the box blade/toplink but it was enough to show me that the $300 was very well spent. I have much roadwork to do as well as building a 500-600 foot driveway. I also use the boxblade to clear timber slash. I have about 5 acres of almost clear cut that will be pasture that I'll use the 4n1 and boxblade to clear as well as roughly 2 miles of skidder trails to clean up. The 4n1 and boxblade is a very nice combination to do this kind of work. I do use the toplink in this application but its not as critical as when grading the road.

Hope this helps...
Dan McCarty