cdaigle430
Veteran Member
That massey is way to clean and shiny.
PROBLEM HELP! 2018 GC1720 only 6 hours and developed a strong vibration
- Thread starter Nacademus
- Start date
That massey is way to clean and shiny.
jimmyhouser
Gold Member
- Joined
- Feb 4, 2018
- Messages
- 260
- Location
- Charleston, SC
- Tractor
- Massey 1734E, Allis 5030, Case VAC, Ferguson F40
It's new!
20 hours on the clock.
My tractor is vibrating so much at idle that the hood shakes a lot and has been rubbing through the paint in some places where it touches the supports. I also think I may have found some wetness around an injector fuel supply line nut.
Anyone else have to tighten their injector fuel lines on these?
It may be nothing but since the tire issue I'm having and this vibration happening again since last season, I'm on alert for every little thing. This rough idle isn't exactly a small thing, though.
My father-in-law remarked that it was pretty bad when I showed him today.
My tractor is vibrating so much at idle that the hood shakes a lot and has been rubbing through the paint in some places where it touches the supports. I also think I may have found some wetness around an injector fuel supply line nut.
Anyone else have to tighten their injector fuel lines on these?
It may be nothing but since the tire issue I'm having and this vibration happening again since last season, I'm on alert for every little thing. This rough idle isn't exactly a small thing, though.
My father-in-law remarked that it was pretty bad when I showed him today.
JWR
Elite Member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2011
- Messages
- 3,793
- Location
- So MD / WV
- Tractor
- MF 2660 LP, 3 Kubota B2150, Kubota BX2200, MH Pacer, Gravely 5660, etc.
Are you saying this severe vibration went away and come back ? Your video with sound last fall did not, in and of itself, seem abnormal. It would be a major difference in this entire topic if it CAME AND WENT, IF IT TOTALLY BLACK AND WHITE CHANGED or not.
Has the dealer ever seen the machine and evaluated the problem since you bought it ? If you really have a problem that has to happen no matter if the dealer is far away or not. As I asked last fall, have you had another experienced tractor operator run it and listen to it ? That's worth doing before forcing the issue with the dealer.
Yes. The issue went away then came back. It was great when I first received the tractor. Then the idle was awful after the first time I filled it with new fuel after the original tank ran low. More than midway through that tank, it seemed fine again and I felt silly taking it to the dealer when it all of the sudden began to run fine.
This is only the third tank of fuel its ever had and it's still showing 7/8th full.
I can't pinpoint what's making it act like this. I know if I take it in, I'll get it right back because they won't find anything. And they probably won't fix the rub-through on my paint from the vibrations.
This is only the third tank of fuel its ever had and it's still showing 7/8th full.
I can't pinpoint what's making it act like this. I know if I take it in, I'll get it right back because they won't find anything. And they probably won't fix the rub-through on my paint from the vibrations.
JWR
Elite Member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2011
- Messages
- 3,793
- Location
- So MD / WV
- Tractor
- MF 2660 LP, 3 Kubota B2150, Kubota BX2200, MH Pacer, Gravely 5660, etc.
There are so many unknowns here it is hard to diagnose from 500 miles away... And I know exactly what you mean feeling silly taking it to the dealer -- with my luck it would be smooth as silk and I'd be unable to illustrate the problem to him. Like going to the Doctor and the pain is gone...
I do not know your situation and what kinds of tools and gadgets you have access to but here is a thought:
1) The bad vibration state of affairs (call it Bad versus Good for shortening this discussion) -- when it is 'bad' one would think you have one cylinder not 'firing' properly. I could guess a faulty injector or some issue in the high pressure side of the fuel system leading to that one cylinder. On a brand new machine you as owner should not go digging even if you have the background/capability to do so.
2) Lets hypothesize one cylinder is missing for whatever reason. Bad fuel from that first fill-up you mentioned way back, a bad injector from the factory that has a defect, who knows.
3) If you have access/own/or just go buy one of the hand-held infra-red thermometers [Amazon dot com has them in the $13 price range and your local stores carry various versions...] use one of those as follows:
-- Get familiar with the normal operation of the "temperature at a distance" thermometers. Try it out, get repeatable readings on various things warm/hot etc. How far away you hold it, how it acts, etc.
-- Measure the temperature of your cylinder head very close the base of each injector with the engine cold and not running -- all the same of course. Better be.
-- Run the engine a while and observe the rising temperature the longer it runs up to some stable final operating temperature.
-- During that run-up sequence, go from cylinder to cylinder, expecting to see each one in the same temperature ballpark. Keep doing that until the engine is finally hot at its normal operating point.
In that sequence/process IF YOU HAVE THE BAD Vibration, then I suspect you will also have one cylinder head top area cooler than the other two. If you catch it with BAD vibes AND find which cylinder is the "cool" one then that tells you which one has the problem.
Keep in mind that, over too much time, (if you let it sit there and run for half an hour) the heat will conduct all along the cylinder head and you might no longer be able to see a significant temp difference among them ? If you are GOOD and do not have the excess vibration, then all 3 cylinder head areas will read about the same. If the BAD vibe continues I suspect that one cylinder would still be cooler than than the other two.
I'm thinking this test may at least give you something factual/measurable to point to, proving there is a problem.
Armed with this data, you should be able to get the dealer (OR an authorized by the dealer shop closer to you if that is that big a distance problem) to swap out an injector or flush out a line or whatever. IF THAT's THE PROBLEM...
I do not know your situation and what kinds of tools and gadgets you have access to but here is a thought:
1) The bad vibration state of affairs (call it Bad versus Good for shortening this discussion) -- when it is 'bad' one would think you have one cylinder not 'firing' properly. I could guess a faulty injector or some issue in the high pressure side of the fuel system leading to that one cylinder. On a brand new machine you as owner should not go digging even if you have the background/capability to do so.
2) Lets hypothesize one cylinder is missing for whatever reason. Bad fuel from that first fill-up you mentioned way back, a bad injector from the factory that has a defect, who knows.
3) If you have access/own/or just go buy one of the hand-held infra-red thermometers [Amazon dot com has them in the $13 price range and your local stores carry various versions...] use one of those as follows:
-- Get familiar with the normal operation of the "temperature at a distance" thermometers. Try it out, get repeatable readings on various things warm/hot etc. How far away you hold it, how it acts, etc.
-- Measure the temperature of your cylinder head very close the base of each injector with the engine cold and not running -- all the same of course. Better be.
-- Run the engine a while and observe the rising temperature the longer it runs up to some stable final operating temperature.
-- During that run-up sequence, go from cylinder to cylinder, expecting to see each one in the same temperature ballpark. Keep doing that until the engine is finally hot at its normal operating point.
In that sequence/process IF YOU HAVE THE BAD Vibration, then I suspect you will also have one cylinder head top area cooler than the other two. If you catch it with BAD vibes AND find which cylinder is the "cool" one then that tells you which one has the problem.
Keep in mind that, over too much time, (if you let it sit there and run for half an hour) the heat will conduct all along the cylinder head and you might no longer be able to see a significant temp difference among them ? If you are GOOD and do not have the excess vibration, then all 3 cylinder head areas will read about the same. If the BAD vibe continues I suspect that one cylinder would still be cooler than than the other two.
I'm thinking this test may at least give you something factual/measurable to point to, proving there is a problem.
Armed with this data, you should be able to get the dealer (OR an authorized by the dealer shop closer to you if that is that big a distance problem) to swap out an injector or flush out a line or whatever. IF THAT's THE PROBLEM...
JWR
Elite Member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2011
- Messages
- 3,793
- Location
- So MD / WV
- Tractor
- MF 2660 LP, 3 Kubota B2150, Kubota BX2200, MH Pacer, Gravely 5660, etc.
Irvingj is right -- that's so quick and easy to do before getting into other things I have suggested. But with only 1/8 of a tank into your 3rd tank of fuel in over 6 months -- you're going to have to run it some (with the additive) to ever find out anything.
WranglerX
Elite Member
Also check head temperature at exhaust ports, do it early in run before head/exhaust manifold temperature normalized across whole head... Ummm... Added "fresh" fuel... Problem starts.... Sort of seems like a no brainer....
Dale
Dale