Problem with curl cylinder?

[radman1]

Update on the check valve. The check valve works poorly when using the tilt cylinder with any significant weight on the loader. As the cylinder extends, the valve and cylinder chatter. Works fine when retracting. I believe the chatter is due to the negative pressure on the valve\cylinder when tipping the cylinder down. Had to remove the check valve.

 

[DEWFPO]

Thanks for updating us Radman1.

DEWFPO

 

[DEWFPO]

Well, they came and took my Toolcat away today. They said they'll be replacing the tilt/curl valve assembly. Radman1, I gave them the P/N you provided to make it easier on them. Thanks and wish me luck.

DEWFPO

 

[DEWFPO]

Finally got the Toolcat back yesterday at 8 pm after 47 days at the dealership. They replaced the tilt valve and the boom. While I had them change out the tilt valve I had them check into why the bob-tach sat unevenly on the machine. One side was 1 full inch lower than the other. With the snowblade or the snowblower on it, it was very obvious something was out of whack. The mechanic couldn't figure it out so they waited for a factory rep to come into town and look at it. He authorized replacing the boom. The bob-tach now sits within 3/16" side to side. The tilt cylinder doesn't seem much better, and that with the lightweight (as compared to the SB-200) low profile bucket and a few hundred pounds in it. Oh well.

DEWFPO

 

[J_J]

DEWFPO,

How is the tilt not working like you expected? How does it compare to another unit, same model? If it doesn't compare, make them fix it right. Is it not working fast enough, or leaking down?

 

[SPYDERLK]

Pls revisit post 20. I know the dealer ultimately reported it as a valve fix on one case, but the same action on the other was ineffective. There may be different reasons for the same symptom. Also, I have experienced cases where a shop gets embarrassed at missing something the 1st time and doesnt report everything done to finally fix it when its brought back. Different direction of force can affect the sealing at the piston/rod if the nut is loose
larry

 

[J_J]

Larry,

The nut would not stay loose for long, it would eventually come off. In the mean time, if it was loose, you should hear a clunk or be able to watch the shaft move in relation to the handle movement. Do you have an automatic leveling device that might not be working. The only way to test the cylinder is to take it off and let a hyd shop test it. If that valve does not have the ability to make a good cylinder go to relief at cylinder stop points, then something is wrong. There are supposed to be checks in the valve to prevent cylinder movement while shifting the valve. Does the lift cylinders go to relief when at the stops? If it does, then you know you are operating at the relief pressure. You say they changed the valve, then it has to be the cylinder or something like an auto leveling device.

 

[DEWFPO]

DEWFPO,

How is the tilt not working like you expected? How does it compare to another unit, same model? If it doesn't compare, make them fix it right. Is it not working fast enough, or leaking down?

J_J, the curl cylinder doesn't hold pressure as well as I'd like. The heavier the load, the hotter the oil the faster the bucket, snowblower, etc... starts to tilt lower. It's not fast but it's noticeable and easily measurable, especially when you're trying to hold a load up steady. Engine running or not does not matter. It's not unworkable by any means but my tractor was always rock solid.

DEWFPO

 

[J_J]

J_J, the curl cylinder doesn't hold pressure as well as I'd like. The heavier the load, the hotter the oil the faster the bucket, snowblower, etc... starts to tilt lower. It's not fast but it's noticeable and easily measurable, especially when you're trying to hold a load up steady. Engine running or not does not matter. It's not unworkable by any means but my tractor was always rock solid.

DEWFPO

If the relief does not work, and the cyl hasn't been replaced, it should be easy to unhook and take off and have a hyd shop verify the cylinder is working like it is supposed to. Otherwise , check it on their hyd bench. With cylinder connected, when he throws that valve to extend or retract, he should be able to tell you if it is good or bad. If it makes the relief valve on his system go off, it should test good. A lot of guys, don't want to take things apart, but unless you have some hyd gages, and know how to use them, you will not know what to take apart. I believe you have one tilt cylinder, so add a tee connection and put a gage in line and when you tilt, you should be able to read the pressure. You will not read much pressure unless you are tilting a full load, or the cylinder is fully retracted or extended. Tilting an empty bucket up and down will not show very much pressure, until you get to the end of cylinder travel.

Stay on them until it's fixed, and hint that if they can not fix it, then maybe the district manager might have to be included. Keep a log of time lost , even if you are not using it in a business. Time is money. Waiting until the trouble shooter comes around, just ain't good enough. They could have replaced the cylinder just to check it, and if all the cylinders did the same thing, that is a manufacture problem. You might ask if their have been any service bulletins relating to the same problem. You might even ask to read all the service bulletins, you might just find some more stuff they don't tell everyone.

 

[SPYDERLK]

it depends on the pump delivery relative to cyl leak rate whether a relief valve will crack at end of cyl stroke. He has a slow leak evidenced by cyl leakdown with valve centered. The relief, even if it was leaking would have no effect there. Potential sources of the described symptom are internal leaks at piston or rod, hose leaks between cyl and valve, and spool leaks in the valve. Assuming no oil on ground and I think valve was replaced?
larry