Problems mounting 2 bottom plow...

rambler · Feb 19, 2006

The difficulty is more in learning how to set the plow. Some adjustments go counter to what one would think, and you can typially adjust the depth of either side of the plow; the tilt fore & aft; the center of pull compared to the tractor; the depth of the front of the plow, depth of the rear of the plow, depth and location of the coulters, and the depth of the whole plow. It's one of those things that is easier to do than to explain. You add in the unknowns of type of soil, wear on the plow lay (worn out ones can look fair yet, but will not penetrate clay or dry soil), soil type, and so on.

There are so many options available, it's easy to take a quick look & decide what will work, what adjustments to tweak. It's about impossible to tell someone blind from 1/2 across the country what settings to try first, without being able to see what's what.

Tillers for small acreage folk.

Chisel plows (ripper, multch tillage, disc chisels, aka many other things) for serious farm acreage.

--->Paul

Investorguy · Feb 19, 2006

( The difficulty is more in learning how to set the plow. Some adjustments go counter to what one would think, and you can typially adjust the depth of either side of the plow; the tilt fore & aft; the center of pull compared to the tractor; the depth of the front of the plow, depth of the rear of the plow, depth and location of the coulters, and the depth of the whole plow. It's one of those things that is easier to do than to explain. You add in the unknowns of type of soil, wear on the plow lay (worn out ones can look fair yet, but will not penetrate clay or dry soil), soil type, and so on.

There are so many options available, it's easy to take a quick look & decide what will work, what adjustments to tweak. It's about impossible to tell someone blind from 1/2 across the country what settings to try first, without being able to see what's what.

Tillers for small acreage folk.

Chisel plows (ripper, multch tillage, disc chisels, aka many other things) for serious farm acreage.

--->Paul )

Wow... I had no idea what I was getting myself into. I remember a farmer friend of mine who plowed my field earlier (6 bottom rollover plow) said that once you had a tractor set up for plowing, you never took the plow off that tractor.... I should have remembered that.

So does everyone agree that I do in fact need to change the way the offest bar sits to the exact opposite way? That will allow it to work best when I have one tire in a trench?

Now, given that it's not a rollover plow, what is the best way to plow? should I go in a square or just plow one way, then drive back, then plow the same way again?

I tried a tiller on my land and it just doesn't work. Not quite deep enough. But tiller + plow is great. The plow cuts right below the 20 year old sod.

I did plow a little furrow to see how it works. The front plow did great but the back one didn't cut deep enough. I'll post a pic.

Also, would having TNT make this all easier? Sure seems like it to me.

I am not new to forums, but I'm new to this one. I'm amazed at the depth of wisdom here and the overall willingness to share it. I love this rural lifestyle, even though I'm only a year into it. Thanks for all your help. Be assured I'll be needing more.

Investorguy · Feb 19, 2006

Okay, here's my first little run.

I think I may need those little circular blades that go before the plows to cut off the chunk of sod when I flowp it over.

I can see now how if my right tire was in a trench, I'd need the plow to be offset the other way in order for it to be even.

3RRL · Feb 19, 2006

Investorguy,

With the difficulty you had lining up the lower lift pins, you should consider Pat's EZ lift system or some other comparable brand.

I'm constantly fighting the level lift pin thing as I too drop my implements on uneven ground (have no choice). But once I got the EZ lift system, things went much easier. I set the width and lower the lift arms below the lowest pin, back up underneath and raise up until they "click in. Saved me a lot of pain and time. I was constantly kicking the lower lift arms, cussing and throwing a fit over something stupid like that.

I even went as far as to mount an eye bolt in the ROPS. I hooked a come-along to it to help move, lift and align my implements for hook up along with a crow bar. The cost sure beats the heck out of the frustration.

I don't have a plow yet, but I imagine the Top & Tilt complete system would also help you set your draft and side tilt WHILE you are plowing. Allowing you to make all the adjustments from the cab to get it to cut and dig properly. I found this out with my boxblade. I was pleasantly amazed to find how little adjustments while blading made it perform soooo much better for ripping, moving dirt and smoothing.

PineRidge · Feb 19, 2006

This information on setting up a Dearborn plow is posted at our web site. some of this information I'm sure will apply to most plows. Maybe it will help plow setup

Toolguy · Feb 19, 2006

Once it is set up correctly it should look like this.

Investorguy · Feb 19, 2006

( Investorguy,

With the difficulty you had lining up the lower lift pins, you should consider Pat's EZ lift system or some other comparable brand.

I'm constantly fighting the level lift pin thing as I too drop my implements on uneven ground (have no choice). But once I got the EZ lift system, things went much easier. I set the width and lower the lift arms below the lowest pin, back up underneath and raise up until they "click in. Saved me a lot of pain and time. I was constantly kicking the lower lift arms, cussing and throwing a fit over something stupid like that.

I even went as far as to mount an eye bolt in the ROPS. I hooked a come-along to it to help move, lift and align my implements for hook up along with a crow bar. The cost sure beats the heck out of the frustration.

I don't have a plow yet, but I imagine the Top & Tilt complete system would also help you set your draft and side tilt WHILE you are plowing. Allowing you to make all the adjustments from the cab to get it to cut and dig properly. I found this out with my boxblade. I was pleasantly amazed to find how little adjustments while blading made it perform soooo much better for ripping, moving dirt and smoothing. )

I ordered the EZ lift system 3 days ago. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

TNT is next on my list. Might have to get that w/ my 50 hour tune.

rambler · Feb 20, 2006

( Okay, here's my first little run.

I think I may need those little circular blades that go before the plows to cut off the chunk of sod when I flowp it over.

I can see now how if my right tire was in a trench, I'd need the plow to be offset the other way in order for it to be even.

)

The coulters (little round things - they should be big round things, 18 inches or so - if under 16" they are wore out, not worth the effort....) help 95% of the time, there are rare cases when you are better off without.

Yes, plow should have the bottom links tilted the other way once you are plowing. The plow should always be level when in the ground - whatever position the tractor is in.... You know you can use your tractor side link for fine adjustments, as well as for hooking up to the 3pt? That crank on there.

One year you plow down the left side of the field, back up the right side, throwing dirt to the outside. Do not plow when driving from one side to the other. As you kewep plowing down one side, up the other, you will meet in the middle. This will leave 2 slight ridges, one on each side of the field. And it will leave a bigger dip, or deadfurrow, in the middle of the field. Next year, you start going down the middle of the field, and return right next to that first path, throwing the dirt inward to the middle of the field. You continue going up & down, eventually getting to the outside edge of the field. This pattern will leave a hump in the middle of the field, and 2 shallow dead furrows one on each side. Notice that alternating these plowing patterns will fill in the dead furrows from the previous year, and keep your field level.

Oh, you plow the end rows (headlands) last, should only take 2-3 passes to get them plowed. As you pack the soil, they plow harder, but that is how it is.

An irregular field, or one you wish to actually move some ground, create a ridge on one side - then plow it how best you can. If a field is very big, you break it up into strips, alternate furrows and mounds.

It is not normal to till the ground before plowing, but on difficult soils one does what works, I won't say not to.

Your plow needs the top link longer, so the rear bottom ends up level with the front one.

Your plow doesn't quite look 'square', in that the rear wheel looks out to the right a bit. However, once in the dirt maybe that corrects itself. It is not a real big 'off', perhaps tilting the bottom arms the other way will take it up.

A hyd top link is fine, but if it drifts on you (the cylinder leaks down over time) then it would _not_ be something I'd want, it would require adjustment every time you start the tractor. This is something you set once, and never have to mess with again - sort of the opposite of what a hyd top link offers you....

All in all you look pretty close for a first effort, good job. Make the top link longer. If that does not help, let use see what condition your plow lays are in (the lowest part of the bottom, that cuts the ground) - if the front corner is rounded at all, can be worn out & difficult to get the plow to suck in properly. Dry ground would make that _very_ noticable.

Wow, green grass. It was -12 degrees last nite.....

--->Paul

kensfarm · Feb 20, 2006

Your almost there.. now adjust the plows so that when you lower the plow tips to the ground.. both plow tips touch the ground at the same time.

After your first pass.. w/ your wheels sitting in the trench.. raise the right adj link. This is the reason the right side plow's attachment link is lower then the left side.

side -side: use right adj link.
front -back: extend/ contract upper link

Moldboard plowing requires a little speed to flip the dirt. When the soil's dryer.. it'll flip better.

sweettractors · Feb 20, 2006

You will drive yourself nuts trying to plow with your plow. Someone has the cross drawbar turned 180 degrees out of position. Here is a picture of the cross drawbar on a JD plow that is correct. Rotate it until it looks like this--Ken Sweet