Problems mounting 2 bottom plow...

JerryG · Feb 18, 2006

After you said that about the drawbar, I couldn't remember which way the silly thing should be. I even drew a picture to try to remember. Though that it might have been right. Looks like you got it though. That would create quite a problem.

After it is rotated, then hook it up like I said. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

PineRidge · Feb 18, 2006

Just remember that if you do play with the adjustable side link once you get the plow hooked up it is necessary to trim the plow back out. The reason one lift arm is higher than the other is the put the correct angle on the moldboards as they enter the ground. My Dearborn plow uses a cam to make that adjustment while yours appears to be fixed.

JoeL4330 · Feb 19, 2006

I don't know the "correct" way to do it, and am confused as to why someone would design an implement that way, but I often encounter a similar problem because the places where I drop an implement are never level, side-to-side.

I deal with it in one of two ways: I first hook up the lower of the two pins first and then (because the TPH "floats") I can raise it manually and slip it over the higher pin ...the lift arms are un-pinned so they can "sway" and my arms have a few inches of fore-aft play when their "thing-a-ma-jigs" are pressed. If that doesn't work, after one arm is pinned, I hook up the top link, which has mucho adjustment. With these two points, I can raise the implement and, when suspended, position it to the other lift-arm pin (being careful not to have a foot under the implement. )

Farmwithjunk · Feb 19, 2006

( How much does a new 2 bottom plow run? )

Not too sure you can even get new plows from any of the "major manufacturers" anymore. Howse sells one, but after TRYING one a few years ago, stick with the old ones.

The plow in the picture is from Deere, about 1955 to 1961 or 2. There was a model 415 which is (if I'm not mistaken,) a 2 X 12" mounted plow. The 416 was available in a 1, 2, or 3 bottom, 14" or 16" configuration. The 416A had a few minor improvements. Note on my 2 bottom, there's what is known as a "Landing lever". It's to adjust width of cut, which also helps align the plow. It turns that off-set drawbar slightly.

From what I can tell, my plow was bought new around 1958 or '59.

Tenwalker · Feb 19, 2006

#1: You have it hooked up.
#2: You will pull your hair out trying to break land with it as in the photo.
#3: When you use bottom plows, the right wheel of the tractor is in the trench, about 6" deep. To easily adjust the plows, place a 6X6 on level ground, drive the left side of the tractor onto this. Drop the bottom plows and adjust them so that they are level in this position. You may have to stop and adjust the top link after a pull. Do not get over aggressive with the point pointing down.
#4: If you are doing a reasonably small area, step it off or eyeball it and start in the middle of the field. Run one pull, turn around, drop the right wheel in the trench and make a return to where you started. Then is is just always making a right turn, dropping the plow into the trench until you finish the plot that you are on. RIGHT TURN, that's why race car drivers cannot do this.
#5: If this is a large field of several acres it is best to start on a left corner and completely go around the field. When you complete this reverse the direction and start on a right corner. Drop the right wheel in the trench that you just did and go completely around the field until you reach the center. Then you can break the corners from each corner to the center as in #4.
When I was a kid, I spent a many of hours going in squares.

Tommy

Tenwalker · Feb 19, 2006

Addition: The lift arm connection on the plow are correct. If you sit it on level ground and measure from the ground to the one on the right and from the ground to the one on the left, you will find that there is about 6" difference. I have a JD 2 plow just as the one in the photo and I have no problem pulling it with my LK3054, although since I have turf tires I use 4WD.

Tommy

Cliff_Johns · Feb 19, 2006

Tommy,
Very instructive post.

On that first pull down the middle of the plot, I guess the plow should be level without the 6X6 since your right tire isn't in a furrow? After that , then it needs to be leveled again, or doesn't this bit of tinkering matter?

Cliff

rambler · Feb 19, 2006

( Tommy,
Very instructive post.

On that first pull down the middle of the plot, I guess the plow should be level without the 6X6 since your right tire isn't in a furrow? After that , then it needs to be leveled again, or doesn't this bit of tinkering matter?

Cliff )

You are going to have some fun...... /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif Setting up a plow to a new tractor is more art than science. You have to adjust the tilt of the plow in all 3 axis, and any one correction affects the other 2..... The plow should trail behind the tractor, without needing stablizer bars. You will be playing with the length of the top link a lot for the final adjustment.

Add to that: The first round on level ground is way different adjustments. So you will cuss & swear to get that set, & then everything changes to plow the remaining rounds - where one side of the tractor is 6 inches lower in the furrow.

Add to that, a rusty or painted plow bottom doesn't plow right, so it will plow real hard until you get it shiny.

You don't want a new plow, they are tin toys, you want a real plow like you have.

Hook up the lower 3pt pin, lift the 3pt arms up a bit with your tractor, hook up the 2nd pin, then lift or lower the plow to hook up the top link. Shouldn't take 3 minutes, no effort.

Once you figure out how to set up your plow, it will be simple. Figuring out how to do it blind - you will have a fun day or 2. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

--->Paul

rambler · Feb 19, 2006

On the orentation of the lower links: I'm not familiar with JD plows of this type, but wouldn't you want the arms set as they are for opening the field, and then rotate them so the opposite side is hi/lo for the normal plowing? Does not one of the levers control this cross shaft?

For normal plowing, the tractor will sit at an angle, the plow should sit level, so you would need the shafts tilt the other way than in your pic.

--->Paul

RFB · Feb 19, 2006

Not trying to hijack the thread, but if it is this difficult to plow (being ignorant I figured you just hooked it up drove the tractor back and forth and the plow did the work) and new plows are poor quality, what has taken the place of plows to accomplish the same chore?