kennyd
Advertiser
Can you take a picture? The caps are usually held on with two socket head cap screws...None of those links had pictures?
Problems with float
- Thread starter RobiBX2230
- Start date
Can you take a picture? The caps are usually held on with two socket head cap screws...None of those links had pictures?
JB4310
Super Member
Did you ever get the loader valve into float? I thought you were pretty close the other day.
JB.
JB.
OP
RobiBX2230
Silver Member
Here are 2 pictures of what I assume are the parts I need to make a hole in to drain any moisture and take off and open to make sure there is no rust or broken parts ... I just cannot seem to unscrew them from the machine...
Attachments
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RobiBX2230
Silver Member
And by "here are the pictures" I mean the 2 black hex shaped cylinders, one with tool marks on it (me trying to get it off the machine) and the other has a "12" on it...
OP
RobiBX2230
Silver Member
To be honest, I'm not exactly sure, if the machine is at idle and I have the implement in the air like we talked about, I can put it into what I believe is float for my machine and it will lower to the ground and stop. However, if I leave it there and throttle the machine up to do anything most times I will lift the front wheels off the ground... Once its warm its a little easier, so I assume there has to be moisture in these end cap pieces - or rust, or both. The problem is, I cannot push my joystick past "lower" to a "float" - all I can seem to do is get it to stay in the "lower" position which I assume is correct for my controls...
CharlieR
Bronze Member
I'm not sure what the 2 black hex "dodadas" are - take the plastic cover off and then do a photo.
As Kennyd says they should be held on with two cap screws or two philips screws - like a little cover.
My control is doing almost the same thing but will absolutely not go into a detent position (stay in the down position).
I've been told my issue is crud in the cup that needs to be scrapped out to allow the control piston to extend into the float position.
I thought I did this enough once but I've got to do it again as there is little clearance inside the cup.
Good luck with the clean up.
As Kennyd says they should be held on with two cap screws or two philips screws - like a little cover.
My control is doing almost the same thing but will absolutely not go into a detent position (stay in the down position).
I've been told my issue is crud in the cup that needs to be scrapped out to allow the control piston to extend into the float position.
I thought I did this enough once but I've got to do it again as there is little clearance inside the cup.
Good luck with the clean up.
OP
RobiBX2230
Silver Member
Okay, there are just 4 small screws that hold the plastic cap on to cover the valve etc up. I plan on taking that off when I get time, just did not get time last night. I will see if I can figure it all out tonight and post pictures if I need to.
JB4310
Super Member
Sounds like it must be what Kenny was referring to.
Like it's not engaging all the way due to some type of blockage, that's why it's bumping back out.
But the odd thing is even if it bumped out it should return to center, not raise the machine?
Something you need to know, when you are pushing your bucket along the ground in float, if your bucket edge starts to dig in due to downward angle, that will cause the front end to rise as the machine is going forward, trying to drive up over the bucket, which is going down or meeting resistance
The way to avoid that is to roll the bucket back just slightly so as not to catch the cutting edge.
JB
OP
RobiBX2230
Silver Member
Yes, but even when I am not driving, the tractor will lift up
kennyd
Advertiser
Robi, take a look HERE, I found it by Googling "la211 loader". Page 11 I think is your setup but not 100% sure. Looks like there might be a snap ring (part T and J) but I cannot find any letters in the descriptions...maybe you can download this and print it out for better help? I am not sure what else I can offer you at this point