Problems with Stihl ms 250

[CJBOTA]

I have owned several Stihl saws but my last choice of buying a ms 250 has been quite a disappointment. It is very difficult to start when it is hot. Actually it doesn't start very well when it is cold either. When cold it starts but keeps bogging out when you try to give it some gas. When hot it don't even try to go. You can pull the rope until your tongue falls out. My other saw is a ms 361 and it starts and runs just fine. I really like having a lighter saw for certain jobs but this ms250 is more trouble then it's worth. I have taken it back to the dealer a couple of times and they fixed a couple other minor problems but haven't improved the starting issues. Sometimes it won't shut off either, you have to put the choke on to stall it out. But that is only necessary when you get lucky and get it to run in the first place. I have always liked Stihl saws but for the first time I am thinking about trying another brand.
CJ

 

[rekees4300]

Sounds like a carburetor adjustment problem. Had similar problems but after adjusting carb screws per owners manual good as new. Also new gas, plug, and air filter will help.

 

[xyz123]

I was going to offer to check it for you, but you are 2hrs 10mins drive one way.

 

[Treemonkey1000]

Depending on how mechanical you are getting a carb rebuild kit from the Stihl shop or Ebay. Or getting a new carb. and throwing it on there. First thing to do before that is replace the fuel tank filter if you haven't already as a start. Next if you can get at it is try to get it started again unless your tongue falls out. Pick the tongue back up out of the dirt and put it back in. Then if the saw is running spray carb cleaner around the carb to cylinder head connection. See if that changes how it is running. You might have a bad gasket between carb and head. Also another thing to look at is the spark arrestor screen on the muffler to make sure it isn't clogged up with anything. I am guessing you are starting with FRESH gas and mix not some old crud gas that has been sitting in a rusty metal can for 6 months.
Another thing is mix some fuel stabilizer cleaner in with your gas mix.

 

[MrWhippy]

I had a similar problem with a MS180 (I think?). Eventually warped a head, not sure why. When I replaced it, I went with a small Echo. US made and my old CS3000 is stone reliable.

 

[CJBOTA]

Ok, I am going to try to follow Treemonkey's advice the best I can. I might even try another dealer. And if those two things don't work I am going the same route as MrWippy. My Kubota dealer carries the Echo brand and I have a lot of confidence in their maintenance dept. The ms250 is a great saw when it's running. It has a great power to weight ratio. When I first bought it, it seemed to start and stay running better. Now some days it just refuses to start. I will let you know how I make out.
Cj

 

[Treemonkey1000]

It was Sea Foam was the fuel stabilizer cleaner that I was trying to think of to run through your carb. I have had good results in the past pulling off the diaphragm on the bottom of the carb and cleaning those out. The primary thing is don't tear it and remember which side is up and which way it is facing as far as the flapper valves on it. A little bit of oxidation from moisture or crud sucked in will really whack the performance out.

 

[geko]

I have a stihl hs80r hedge cutter ( I'm guessing similar size engine). It always has to be choked, left to warm up for a few minutes then run - any gas before that & it'll stall. Once running its perfect!

 

[KYDan]

I have the same issue with my MS250. The dealer has been very gracious about it, but this has been ongoing for some time now. My MS 271 is flawless and so is my ancient 86 series. If this had been my first Stihl product I would never bought another one.

 

[dodge man]

If you look I have a thread in this forum a few months old where I had similar problems with my MS250 not running well. In my case it was a badly scored piston and cylinder. I ended up rebuilding it for about $100 and it now runs great. I discovered the problem by taking the muffler off and looking in the exhaust port. There are several possibilities on what caused the problem but most likely it got ran with no oil in the fuel. Not saying that is your problem but easy to check.

 

[Sonny580]

Friend of mine bought one new---wouldnt start--or hard start so with his physical condition being bad he gave me the saw. His dealer would not accept the fact that this saw was defective from the factory and refused to send it back or fix it.
I ended up having to put another chimna knockoff carb on it that actually had the set screws on it so you can fine tune it. ---- finally got it to run and use it a lot. NOT my fave saw but it does cut. Hard to pull over---always has been that way---was told by others that is their nature. The thing that really ticks me off about it is the **** oil and gas caps! that is the most stupid design ever!!!
Sthil dealers around here will NOT stand behind their junk!

 

[Budweiser John]

I do not know if this helps but I have a Stihl 391with a compression relief button. I too complained about it’s hard starting.
The dealer told me to depress the compression relief and choke, pull the starter until the engine barks then reset the compression button, remove the choke and a pull or two more will fire it up.
OK, this works (mostly). I keep hoping that with more use the engine will loosen up and be as user friendly as my Stihl mid 1990s model 291 that will predictably start on the second pull even in sub freezing weather.

B. John

 

[dodge man]

My newer 261 starts similar, a couple pulls with the choke on, it will start and die right away , choke on half way and one or two pulls it starts and runs. My MS 250 starts similar but no compression relief.

 

[ericm979]

It's really common for two stroke singles to start like that. A couple attempts with the choke on until it pops, then turn the choke off and it'll start after two more attempts. It's the same on dirt bikes... except for some big bores the recommended procedure it to lay it on its side so the carb floods, and you have to position the piston after TDC before each kick.

The cold raw gas (and fumes) has to get from the carb to the crankcase and then up the transfers before there's a hope of lighting it up. That takes a few turns of the engine.

 

[inode]

The Stihl MS 250 is one of Stihl’s harder starting saws. Never attempt to start more than 3 pulls on full choke or it will flood. If flooded, put it in normal run mode and pull rope while throttle is wide open for about 30 cranks. It’ll start.

I have a 20 year old MS 250 and it has been a good saw once I knew how to start it. It pulls strong and is light weight compared to the larger 50+cc saw.

 

[ericm979]

My 025 (MS250 with screw caps) is remarkably hard to pull for a 45cc saw. I stop and start saws a lot when cutting brush. Our brush is so thick that you have to pull the stuff you just cut out of the way so you can get to the next few cuts. The 025 jacked up my shoulder from repeatedly starting it. I got an Echo CS352 for brush which is not as powerful but is super easy to pull and lights right up.

 

[dodge man]

My MS250 doesn’t bother me most of the time starting it but maybe one out of ten pulls you must hit the compression just right and it hurts, often my hand. I have a MS261 with a decompression valve that I forget to use half the time and it starts just as easy or easier than the 250.

 

[plowhog]

The Stihl MS 250 is one of Stihl’s harder starting saws. Never attempt to start more than 3 pulls on full choke or it will flood.

+1.

I *never* pull more than twice with the choke on. If it floods, you'll wear out your shoulder pulling on it to get it to clear. Been there, done that.

I own multiple Stihl saws. The 250 is unique in that it's the most finicky and hardest to start-- by far. I like Stihl saws, but regrettably I have two of the 250 models.

 

[killingitcountry]

I agree 100% - oil and gas caps are an absolutely ridiculous design. My MS261 in a real pain ... but I never have an issue starting it.

 

[ericm979]

Stihl's flippy caps can be hard to thread on. But they lock down solidly and you know they're secured. Screw caps often require a tool to tighten fully and then to open. Worse, they can become unscrewed and then you're wearing a bunch of premix or bar oil. Having done that I prefer the flippy caps.