Problems with Stihl ms 250

   / Problems with Stihl ms 250 #11  
Friend of mine bought one new---wouldnt start--or hard start so with his physical condition being bad he gave me the saw. His dealer would not accept the fact that this saw was defective from the factory and refused to send it back or fix it.
I ended up having to put another chimna knockoff carb on it that actually had the set screws on it so you can fine tune it. ---- finally got it to run and use it a lot. NOT my fave saw but it does cut. Hard to pull over---always has been that way---was told by others that is their nature. The thing that really ticks me off about it is the **** oil and gas caps! that is the most stupid design ever!!!
Sthil dealers around here will NOT stand behind their junk!
 
   / Problems with Stihl ms 250 #12  
I do not know if this helps but I have a Stihl 391with a compression relief button. I too complained about it’s hard starting.
The dealer told me to depress the compression relief and choke, pull the starter until the engine barks then reset the compression button, remove the choke and a pull or two more will fire it up.
OK, this works (mostly). I keep hoping that with more use the engine will loosen up and be as user friendly as my Stihl mid 1990s model 291 that will predictably start on the second pull even in sub freezing weather.

B. John
 
   / Problems with Stihl ms 250 #13  
My newer 261 starts similar, a couple pulls with the choke on, it will start and die right away , choke on half way and one or two pulls it starts and runs. My MS 250 starts similar but no compression relief.
 
   / Problems with Stihl ms 250 #14  
It's really common for two stroke singles to start like that. A couple attempts with the choke on until it pops, then turn the choke off and it'll start after two more attempts. It's the same on dirt bikes... except for some big bores the recommended procedure it to lay it on its side so the carb floods, and you have to position the piston after TDC before each kick.

The cold raw gas (and fumes) has to get from the carb to the crankcase and then up the transfers before there's a hope of lighting it up. That takes a few turns of the engine.
 
   / Problems with Stihl ms 250 #15  
The Stihl MS 250 is one of Stihl’s harder starting saws. Never attempt to start more than 3 pulls on full choke or it will flood. If flooded, put it in normal run mode and pull rope while throttle is wide open for about 30 cranks. It’ll start.

I have a 20 year old MS 250 and it has been a good saw once I knew how to start it. It pulls strong and is light weight compared to the larger 50+cc saw.
 
   / Problems with Stihl ms 250 #16  
My 025 (MS250 with screw caps) is remarkably hard to pull for a 45cc saw. I stop and start saws a lot when cutting brush. Our brush is so thick that you have to pull the stuff you just cut out of the way so you can get to the next few cuts. The 025 jacked up my shoulder from repeatedly starting it. I got an Echo CS352 for brush which is not as powerful but is super easy to pull and lights right up.
 
   / Problems with Stihl ms 250 #17  
My MS250 doesn’t bother me most of the time starting it but maybe one out of ten pulls you must hit the compression just right and it hurts, often my hand. I have a MS261 with a decompression valve that I forget to use half the time and it starts just as easy or easier than the 250.
 
   / Problems with Stihl ms 250 #18  
The Stihl MS 250 is one of Stihl’s harder starting saws. Never attempt to start more than 3 pulls on full choke or it will flood.

+1.

I *never* pull more than twice with the choke on. If it floods, you'll wear out your shoulder pulling on it to get it to clear. Been there, done that.

I own multiple Stihl saws. The 250 is unique in that it's the most finicky and hardest to start-- by far. I like Stihl saws, but regrettably I have two of the 250 models.
 
   / Problems with Stihl ms 250 #19  
I agree 100% - oil and gas caps are an absolutely ridiculous design. My MS261 in a real pain ... but I never have an issue starting it.
 
   / Problems with Stihl ms 250 #20  
Stihl's flippy caps can be hard to thread on. But they lock down solidly and you know they're secured. Screw caps often require a tool to tighten fully and then to open. Worse, they can become unscrewed and then you're wearing a bunch of premix or bar oil. Having done that I prefer the flippy caps.
 
 
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