'Professional' grade saws vs. 'Homeowner' saws

[ArlyA]

This guy is a bit of a kook but he seems like he knows what he's talking about. I like watching some of his stuff. One of his big things is he likes the long bars for bucking, says it helps with fatigue by being able to stand more upright while sawing and is safer because your face is farther away from the bar if there is a kickback.

If he get kickback, he's heading to ER.

 

[5030]

He's taken down and bucked more trees than you can count.

 

[ArlyA]

He's taken down and bucked more trees than you can count.

As have you I'm sure.

 

[5030]

As have you I'm sure.

Probably not. When I need tree work done I call one of my arborist customers with a High Ranger and have them do it and chip the limbs too. I rarely if ever buck anything. I will say that anything under 4" gets roasted unless it's too far away to get to the burn pile.

Buck'in Billy is a big fan of square cut chipper chain too.

 

[ArlyA]

Probably not. When I need tree work done I call one of my arborist customers with a High Ranger and have them do it and chip the limbs too. I rarely if ever buck anything. I will say that anything under 4" gets roasted unless it's too far away to get to the burn pile.

I don't care about buken billy but you are smarter, stronger and more experienced at flatulence.

 

[Skeans1]

All that takes is a 'diddle stick' and a few seconds time. Of course you do have to remove the EPA mandated limiter caps. Once I get mine 'tuned in', I rarely have to diddle them.

Yes it only take a few seconds but that’s also time that adds up when you’re paid by production when you run a saw daily that adds up quickly.

 

[Skeans1]

He's not a kook, he's Canadian...lol and I agree and do the same thing myself. Better to be standing upright or close to it and let the saw do the work which, of course, requires a sharp loop. Only short bar saws I own are top handle pruning or in tree saws.

What do you consider a short bar?

 

[5030]

From my "looking", Pro saws usually have higher grade internals. Up graded bearings, advanced cylinder porting/liners. Magnesium cases instead of alu etc.
I'm not sure about ignition components nor carburation. Seems like those would be pretty standard as far as price vs quality.

I'm looking hard at the 60cc Makita saw. (prograde) A lot of saw for $650.

Be careful with Makita saws and see where it's made at. Makita produces saws in Japan but they also produce saws in China. The Japanese saws are much higher quality and the price will be commensurate as well.

 

[5030]

Yes it only take a few seconds but that’s also time that adds up when you’re paid by production when you run a saw daily that adds up quickly.

I'm not and most posters on here (you are the exception, I guess) are not either.

 

[5030]

What do you consider a short bar?

14" for a top handle running applicable chain.